Problem gun

[asd9055]

I've had a similar problem to yours when using the Accubond Long Range. On two different cartridges. I use a 200 gr Accubond in my hunting rifle but I've lost confidence in Nosler bullets the last few years. (I have several hundred 200 AB that I bought quite a few years ago)

I suppose if you've seen the bullets you have shoot well through a different rifle then they are likely okay.

ABLR I believe is marginally stable at 10 twist, at least from what I have read. I have loaded and shot well the 180 and 200 AB, BT and PT in both 300 WM and 300 WBY with the powders he has at hand

 

[Buffalobwana]

I've had a similar problem to yours when using the Accubond Long Range. On two different cartridges. I use a 200 gr Accubond in my hunting rifle but I've lost confidence in Nosler bullets the last few years. (I have several hundred 200 AB that I bought quite a few years ago)

I suppose if you've seen the bullets you have shoot well through a different rifle then they are likely okay.

The only 30 cal Noslers I have loaded have been subsonic 220 CC and 190 CC in my 300 BLK's. Accuracy was fine, for what they were and using 4x max power scope.

I use a lot of CC, ABLR and regular Accubond in my 260. Fantastic results with both. In my 7 mag 168 CC shoot incredibly well and I'm working up loads with 165 Accubond and 175 Accubond.

I can't think of a situation where Nosler products have left me wanting better.

 

[xsn10s]

I'd check the simple things first before moving on. Which is why I suggested cleaning the barrel really well and re shooting. I'd also check the crown. Those are easy things that don't require a lot of effort or evasive work on the rifle. Checking off possible variables one at a time.

 

[nealm66]

I hate to admit how many precious primers I've wasted on my bedding failures lol but maybe, just maybe, it will help someone else. Not sure of your recoil lug design but reliving the bottom is common to ensure the action is making contact without binding but some actions like weatherby need to make contact

 

[Buffalobwana]

Another variable I just thought of. It crossed my mind before, but I'm going to change it now.

I'm using a Silencerco Saker with the older style mount. I have questioned it's integrity, as did Silencerco bc they discontinued that mount.

I'm going to switch cans to the Omega and switch mounts to the ASR mount. See if that helps.

 

[Buffalobwana]

I'd check the simple things first before moving on. Which is why I suggested cleaning the barrel really well and re shooting. I'd also check the crown. Those are easy things that don't require a lot of effort or evasive work on the rifle. Checking off possible variables one at a time.

Worth a shot! I might just have him re-crown it before wasting more powder and primers. Not to mention eating away at my barrel life.

I hate to admit how many precious primers I've wasted on my bedding failures lol but maybe, just maybe, it will help someone else. Not sure of your recoil lug design but reliving the bottom is common to ensure the action is making contact without binding but some actions like weatherby need to make contact

I think addressing bedding is my next step.

 

[xsn10s]

Another variable I just thought of. It crossed my mind before, but I'm going to change it now.

I'm using a Silencerco Saker with the older style mount. I have questioned it's integrity, as did Silencerco bc they discontinued that mount.

I'm going to switch cans to the Omega and switch mounts to the ASR mount. See if that helps.

I'd even run it without the can to test. Take a look at Nosler's load data for 168 CC and H4350. I'd try their "accuracy load" with that combo. Maybe not worry about the tiniest groups but more so on consistent groups.

 

[xsn10s]

Another cheap and easy thing to do is trimm all the brass down. It doesn't cost anything and it rules out that variable. VLD chamber and deburr.

 

[Buffalobwana]

I'd even run it without the can to test. Take a look at Nosler's load data for 168 CC and H4350. I'd try their "accuracy load" with that combo. Maybe not worry about the tiniest groups but more so on consistent groups.

Good idea. I guess that could diagnose it as a can problem.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Another cheap and easy thing to do is trimm all the brass down. It doesn't cost anything and it rules out that variable. VLD chamber and deburr.

Yes. Good point. I am careful with my brass prep. Measure and trim when needed. I'm Using all the same headstamp brass is important too.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Can you confirm what twist this barrel is? Is it 1:10? It reads (counter clockwise) Shilen 308, X, 6, 10, 5, C

 

[xsn10s]

Can you confirm what twist this barrel is? Is it 1:10? It reads (counter clockwise) Shilen 308, X, 6, 10, 5, C

I'd use a tight fitting bore brush and good quality cleaning rod to check the barrel twist. Not to argue but a 1-10" should be fine for 180 AB's. I've shot 180 and 200 AB's in my 30-06 1-10" with no issues.

 

[asd9055]

Can you confirm what twist this barrel is? Is it 1:10? It reads (counter clockwise) Shilen 308, X, 6, 10, 5, C

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[xsn10s]

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I was going to say that's a pretty good guess.