OK I'm going to learn how to use MOA instead of a custom dial. Scenario Questions

Here's the problem with your scenario: distance creates time & opportunity. If you spotted a moving target at 650 and have 30 seconds to setup, dope the wind, and make the shot, the correct answer is to pass.

To your actual question, I use a kestrel 5700 elite that's confirmed to 1,400 yards, Leica 2200 HD-Bs that are calibrated to 1,000 yards, and I carry hard copy dope cards.
 
Experience with the gun and tracking skills have never failed me. 650 yards with my 3006 with at 150btsp is around shoulder height above the target. 15mph is unlikely the same across that distance so it's a good guess at best. I've never ran into a situation where you have time to get out the phone, open a app and make a bunch of calcs. Take the shot, fling as many as you can until it's down or out of sight and get to tracking.
Not sure if serious.
 
As the title says I'm going to try to learn how to use MOA instead of a custom dial to shoot out to 1000 yards. I have this scenario and was hoping some of you experienced hunters can walk me through the steps and where I should go to learn them.
Here's the scenario:

I'm glassing this basin and I see a nice bull and he's out there a ways. I use my rangefinder and he's at 650 yards. The Elk is on the edge of cover and slowly feeding into the trees and you have about 30 seconds to take this shot or lose the opportunity.
The wind is 15 mph from the right at 60 deg quartering to me. The temp is 30 degrees and the elevation is 6000'.
My ballistic chart for the 200 Gr ELD-X says I need to come up 10.8 moa.

What tool(s) are you using to get the dope for this shot and how long would it take you to get it? Can it be done this quickly in different conditions?
You can either get a HI $$$$$ range finder that has ballistic solutions or use a Whiz Wheel ( which is what I use). With a little practice the Whiz Wheel is fast.

 
Nope that is the problem. I was using a Sig 2000 and phone app. but below about 20 degrees F the phone would go blank if it was out of my pocket very long. The weak link is the phone. A better solution is to have a very good drop chart on your stock and a good rangefinder. You can customize your drop chart to the average temp and elevation and other environmentals and then range, check chart and dial. At 650 you will be fine with average conditions beyond that you need accurate station conditions to make a accurate shot.
That's why I use a Whiz Wheel: no batteries and it's water proof.
 
Yuppers,, pretty simple with a free ballistic app of the bullet your using,,, all the particulars of the rifle and barrel,,, and the frugal kestrel wind meter...

Make up the dope cards and test those numbers in real time...

Re-write them once your done...

Keep everything the same and go kill $4!+,,, practice and retest the package a few times through out the season,,, that way you will know if your rifle and ammo are consistan...

Don
Practice practice practice
 
If it was me I would use the Burris Eliminator III scope. Range finder built in , dot moves for the shot. You are good to 750 yards on a elk, they are big enough for a good reading 99% of the time for me any way.
Spend the money on this scope instead of buying the $1000.00 plus MOA scope. Use your moa scope for target , PD , etc hunting were you have more than 30 seconds to make the shot. Does not make sense to me to spend all that money on a elk hunt , all that vacation time and all that walking and rush the shot and or miss the shot. Pull up the Burris Eliminator III and in 10 seconds and I bet less , bang , animal is on the sod. MD
 
I don't have a Gunwerks G7 but it appears that it works much the same way as the Leica 2800.com and Kestrel. You have station conditions with range. The kestrel calculates the firing solution using AB ballistics with the range the Leica gives it and displays it in the viewfinder of the Leica. You can have several rifle profiles stored in the Kestrel and even custom bullet drag profiles.
The kestrel can also give you station wind speed and direction along with azimuth.
The Leica will give you a firing solution up to about 700-800 yds without the Kestrel however it is not near as accurate because it don't have enough data. At 650 yds on a elk it would be adequate.
There are lots of ways to skin this cat. They will all work if executed well. I will have more experience by next year to expose any weaknesses in the system. So far the bluetooth is the weak link.
 
As the title says I'm going to try to learn how to use MOA instead of a custom dial to shoot out to 1000 yards. I have this scenario and was hoping some of you experienced hunters can walk me through the steps and where I should go to learn them.
Here's the scenario:

I'm glassing this basin and I see a nice bull and he's out there a ways. I use my rangefinder and he's at 650 yards. The Elk is on the edge of cover and slowly feeding into the trees and you have about 30 seconds to take this shot or lose the opportunity.
The wind is 15 mph from the right at 60 deg quartering to me. The temp is 30 degrees and the elevation is 6000'.
My ballistic chart for the 200 Gr ELD-X says I need to come up 10.8 moa.

What tool(s) are you using to get the dope for this shot and how long would it take you to get it? Can it be done this quickly in different conditions?
Here's the deal: I use a Sig Saur Kilo 2400 rangefinder. It pairs to your Smartphone app and there are tools in the app you can use to refine your solution, but, and that's a big big but in my opinion, the wind! To make this shot, you need a spotter or spend some time in a spotting scope and look at the wind 1/3 the way, 1/2 the way, 3/4 the way, etc until you can identify a precise wind hold, but, the key is a spotter. The wind changes and changes a lot, and real time changes from a very experienced spotter can make or break you! The Rangefinder gives you the MOA drop and the wind at your position so cold does not make your I phone worthless. The wind is not your friend, and you need to practice in wind to prove to yourself that you have no "ethical" means to assure a lethal shot at 650 yards! That's what I learned playing with the wind in rugged hunting terrain! Ethical Solution: get closer! I may get shot down from some highly experienced professionals out there, that's ok, and am all ears to learn, but as a recreational hunter, not competitive marksman or military sniper with a designated spotter on board, my solution is to get closer rather than risk a miss or wound an animal that I cannot ever retrieve!
 
What is the angle of your intended target up or down from you ? I'm with Retiredsniper and Uncle yib get a good second focal plane scope with a mil retical, study on using it to range and hold for wind quartering , full force . It takes time in the field with the equipment you plan to use to get proficient with it . Once you have gotten proficient with this then you will have saved your money for all the other things that are nice to have .
 
I would either put a drop down ballistic sheet on you scope cover, stock or buy one that mounts to your scope then just range it and refer to your chart. You can make new charts right before you go hunting and you will be dialed. One thing I was thinking about doing as well instead of a custom Turret is buy www.Customturretsystems.com they are cheap and you can have several made up for your hunting area with different values then stick on whatever one works for your condition.
 
Kestrel Drop to update weather to Strelok Pro APP in phone. Generic printed drop chart out to 500 yards made up evening before assuming conditions close the same for the next day.
 
What is the angle of your intended target up or down from you ? I'm with Retiredsniper and Uncle yib get a good second focal plane scope with a mil retical, study on using it to range and hold for wind quartering , full force . It takes time in the field with the equipment you plan to use to get proficient with it . Once you have gotten proficient with this then you will have saved your money for all the other things that are nice to have .

Why second focal plane?
 
Among other things I guide more than 30 European red deer hunts per season. Never had the need to shot one at that distance. Rarely at 300 yards. Even at this distance 30 seconds is short to see the animal, evaluate if its a shootable, measure the distance, get support for the rifle, take position and break the shot.
Not to mention loading, because we carry the rifle with a bullet in the chamber, nor checking environmental data and set the scope.
Hunting up to 200 - 300 yards its easy using a MPBR.
For larger distances and as a few already mentioned here for quick shots the best solution is a drop chart to use with a FFP reticle similar to the one on the photo
 

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