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Odd results with case lube

Turpentine21

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2022
Messages
908
Location
South Carolina
Guys I've been using Hornady One Shot case lube for quite a while. It's easy. Lately I put the comparator on every single case that I resize and bump shoulders on. I noticed I was getting a lot of variation in the numbers whether I used my Redding, Forster, or RCBS dies in different calibers. I make sure I give the cases a good coating with the One Shot and get it inside the neck but no matter, I still get more variation than I should. As of the last week or so I started trying Lee case lube. It's slower for sure. But the variation is gone. With the Lee I get very consistent numbers much like I used to see with Imperial. Sizing effort is easier as well. I don't know. Maybe it's just me. But the calipers don't lie. Anyone else seen anything like this?
 
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I use 100% natural bees wax, no additives, and my brass is the most consistent it has ever been. Prior to this I was using Imperial and prior to that I was using RCBS II Case Lube on a pad…found that to be too tedious. Outcome was fairly good, but not up to speed with bees wax.
The bees wax simply wipes off with isopropyl on a rag and I have never had a case even come close to being sticky, let alone stuck.
I had inconsistent bumps, but this was due to not dry lubing the neck, and not annealing. Also, I switched to dies with honed necks that match my brass, and body dies that matched my brass/chamber.

Cheers.
 
I use 100% natural bees wax, no additives, and my brass is the most consistent it has ever been. Prior to this I was using Imperial and prior to that I was using RCBS II Case Lube on a pad…found that to be too tedious. Outcome was fairly good, but not up to speed with bees wax.
The bees wax simply wipes off with isopropyl on a rag and I have never had a case even come close to being sticky, let alone stuck.
I had inconsistent bumps, but this was due to not dry lubing the neck, and not annealing. Also, I switched to dies with honed necks that match my brass, and body dies that matched my brass/chamber.

Cheers.
I anneal as well. Certainly makes a difference. I'm sizing Winchester 270 down to 6.5-06. Cases get annealed, then full length size and trimmed. Then I run them over my Lee Collet so they fit my neck turn pilot, neck turn to clean up necks, and tumble. From then on after firing I neck size with the collet and bump shoulders with a body die as needed.
 
Maybe it's just me. But the calipers don't lie. Anyone else seen anything like this?
Yes.
Every lube behaves differently, and every one has its ideal film coverage.
I was bumping shoulders recently on 7 LRM cases and noted that if my lube was too thick, I got greater setback on my case, and in some cases, hydro-dimples.
I use my own case lube that's a 50:50 mix of coconut oil and 99% IPA. I love it because it's slicker than snot and doesn't gum up on the cases. I had no idea I was laying it too thick. When I got down to the perfect application thickness, I sure felt the difference in the neck sizing, but my cases were consistent.
 
Guys I've been using Hornady One Shot case lube for quite a while. It's easy. Lately I put the comparator on every single case that I resize and bump shoulders on. I noticed I was getting a lot of variation in the numbers whether I used my Redding, Forster, or RCBS dies in different calibers. I make sure I give the cases a good coating with the One Shot and get it inside the neck but no matter, I still get more variation than I should. As of the last week or so I started trying Lee case lube. It's slower for sure. But the variation is gone. With the Lee I get very consistent numbers much like I used to see with Imperial. Sizing effort is easier as well. I don't know. Maybe it's just me. But the calipers don't lie. Anyone else seen anything like this?
I tried Hornady One Shot a couple of years ago and quickly abandoned it: It was too messy. Coming out of a spray can, it got all over my case trays and reloading bench, and was difficult to get off the trays. Also, it was difficult to apply to all the cases on a tray uniformly.
So I went to Imperial wax, and I love it: imperial wax on the outside of the cases for sizing, and Imperial wax dry lube (powdered graphite) on the necks for seating. No mess, and very uniform results.
 
I tried Hornady One Shot a couple of years ago and quickly abandoned it: It was too messy. Coming out of a spray can, it got all over my case trays and reloading bench, and was difficult to get off the trays. Also, it was difficult to apply to all the cases on a tray uniformly.
So I went to Imperial wax, and I love it: imperial wax on the outside of the cases for sizing, and Imperial wax dry lube (powdered graphite) on the necks for seating. No mess, and very uniform results.

My method as as well! Though, my inside neck lube is a "no name" powdered graphite…..but, it still works! 😉 memtb
 
The Lee works nice and slick for me sizing Win. 270 cases. They size with very little effort. When I size LC cases for 308 I always used imperial as they can be a bear. With the One Shot I guess it's hard to coat everything evenly and get enough in the neck and every case feels somewhat different. i may give some dry lube a try on the necks and use the Lee on the case walls. I use dry graphite on my MEC shotgun loaders and primer feeder and it works well there. Regardless of what I use I generally tumble as a last step before loading new prepped brass to clean everything up. Good to hear I'm not the only one seeing this.
 
Thank you guys for this! I have been using one shot for a couple years and always hated it, but I bought too much of it to switch to anything else. I think I'll try a pad next.
 
Bottle neck rifle cartridges.

RCBS 2 on pad.No lube on shoulder. Neck- outside lube with whats on fingers only. Inside neck, RCBS nylon brush with just a hint of RCBS 2.

RCBS 2 Lube is water soluble, washes off with water.

Applying Lee wax with a Q-Tip inside necks has a hydraulic effect when using an expander. The trapped wax causes a bulge in the brass neck, increasing runout.
 
If I want a precise shoulder bump- I start with a clean die, then use Imperial sizing wax, and apply with my fingers to the neck and the body. Putting it on the shoulder can create issues with consistency as it can build up in the die or is thicker on one piece of brass than another.

Another thing to consider is annealing. In some cases, brass springs back differently after it has been fired several times, and can affect the sizing. Annealing helps to get the brass back to a consistent hardness.

For the AR I just spray on the lube and go to town.
 
I always get more consistent bumps after annealing
If I want a precise shoulder bump- I start with a clean die, then use Imperial sizing wax, and apply with my fingers to the neck and the body. Putting it on the shoulder can create issues with consistency as it can build up in the die or is thicker on one piece of brass than another.

Another thing to consider is annealing. In some cases, brass springs back differently after it has been fired several times, and can affect the sizing. Annealing helps to get the brass back to a consistent hardness.

For the AR I just spray on the lube and go to town.
I've always gotten more consistent results after annealing. I hand anneal and honestly just enjoy doing it. Same with turning necks. For some strange reason I enjoy it.
 
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