No load data for Lapua, plenty for Winchester, Remington and federal

[DLJ6]

Instead of "dumping" a high quality likely longer lasting product consider measuring the average case capacity (10 or so cases) against that of your book brass. Do the math and adjust starting loads accordingly. BTW Norma brass typically has less case capacity than American brands too.

 

[Prieto9000]

I don't think it matters. It's not like the rifle will blow up if you go over max charge for your brass.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Instead of "dumping" a high quality likely longer lasting product consider measuring the average case capacity (10 or so cases) against that of your book brass. Do the math and adjust starting loads accordingly. BTW Norma brass typically has less case capacity than American brands too.

BTW, your statement regarding Norma brass having less capacity than most other brass is false…it actually has far more capacity than ANY brand made.

Cheers.

 

[cajun]

Sounds like I should dump the Lapua brass and go with one of the factory 3 above, would be a whole lot less trouble, I've used mostly Winchester and federal brass and had no problems with em as long as I stayed in normal parameters, I'd like to think using a recipe from either of those would get me fairly close to the load data provided for them on the Lapua…..

No,no and no. Lapua brass is much better quality. Just start a little low and work up. Manuals are just a guide. Powder lots change. Chambers have tolerances. What I pay attention to is the max velocity in the data per the given barrel length. Once you get close to that you need to be careful. You may be above the published charge weight a tad or 1 1/2 grains below it.

 

[73driver]

Been loading for my 6.5C with Hornady and Lapua brass. The Hornady brass ranges from146 grains in weight to 154 grains in weight. Boxes of 100 count Lapua brass vary by +/- .3 grains. Variations between lots of Lapua brass vary by 2 grains. I load the Hornady 148-150 grain brass with the the same load in the 165-167 grain Lapua brass. Not a max load and not Magnum case, just shows you how tight the Lapua QC IS.

 

[slam2107]

What gives here?
I can find data for all the above except Lapua and just ordered 100 new 300 win brass, my Speer book shows nothing for loading that brass, is there a load data book out there that does?? Maybe Sierra or Berger?
Ive always used the other 3 name brand brass and never give it any thought until now…

The only issues I have had with Lapua brass , some of the primmer pockets can be really tight !

 

[Chas1]

I use the same loads with Lapua as I do with other manufacturers brass and haven't seen any difference with respect to pressure signs but, then again I always stay away from max charges.

 

[jpfrog]

The Hornady 11th edition has load data for the 338 Lapua, but using Hornady brass.

I've had a couple of margaritas tonight so I am struggling to understand the purpose of this post.

 

[Wl652]

I can't believe no one has said this yet so I'll be the first; if you're going to dump that lapua 300 WM brass please dump it in my direction I would be most grateful and dont mind risking my life and limbs doing a little load development to see if it's any good or not. Just sayin.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Above is some of the reason to cut your necks for thickness. 1. It uniforms the neck thickness for a more even release of the bullet. If tight neck area that should take of that at the same time. Annealing helps to uniform your necks for tension.

 

[VinceMule]

This is exactly why I have reamers made using dummy rounds with brass that I will be shooting.

That said most SAAMI readers are generous enough in the neck area to accept almost any brass.

Mike, when I have a custom barrel chambered, the gunsmith always has to cut off 1" on the muzzle because the barrel maker laps the barrel from the muzzle end. So, I have the gunsmith run the reamer into that 1" section up to the depth of the shoulder only. This little tool used to be called a neck checker, if the round goes into the neck checker, then there is enough clearance on the neck. This "neck checker" can also be used to measure the shoulder length(some would call this headspace length) using a dial caliper. When the barrel is brand new, the neck checker can also be used to measure the seating depth on a brand new barrel.

Over on accurate shooter dot com in the gunsmithing section, there is a nice discussion on reamer design, relating to the dimension on the web that gives people fits, "clickers" on the bolt lift.

Mike, CIP spec reamers are larger in dimensions than SAAMI As a rule of thumb. Lapua brass will not work well at all in SAAMI spec chambers in 223, 22/250 & AI, all cases based off of 243 that I have found. I had major headaches with Lapua, RWS, Hertenberger, and Norma brass, until I got my reamers/brass/dies figured out.

Reamer makers have a +/- of .0005 on tolerance of neck dia, web dia, etc. I have found that JGS and Manson are very reliable regarding what you get vs. what you ordered.

 

[VinceMule]

Above is some of the reason to cut your necks for thickness. 1. It uniforms the neck thickness for a more even release of the bullet. If tight neck area that should take of that at the same time. Annealing helps to uniform your necks for tension.

X2!!!

 

[VinceMule]

The only issues I have had with Lapua brass , some of the primmer pockets can be really tight !

Me too, Tula small rifle mag primes do not work so well!

 

[Bangswitch 6x47]

Others will have a definitive answer for you but I just purchased lapua brass for my 7-08 after using RP. From what I understand lapua is thicker brass which means less capacity. Just start at the starting load and work your way up looking for pressure signs as should be done anyway when switching brass.

I've done water weight tests with Lapua, Peterson, and Alpha, and Lapua has .5 more capacity than those, but the latter two actually weigh more.