New Scope and New Rifle

[unleashed86]

Hi Guys,

I have a question and would like to see some responses, what do you do when you have a new scope and Rifle with regards to load development?

So first time mounting Scope on new Rifle, how do you start a load ? that also needs to sight in the scope? Do you use factory ammo or do you load a certain safe start load from reloading data of company?

just for interest sake I have always wondered what people do in these circumstances.

 

[haftime]

Usually a new gun is a new caliber so I buy factory for the brass. Factory let's me shoot the new toy sooner.

 

[Lee7588]

I agree with Haftime. First shots are with factory ammo or what I have on hand. That allows me to sight in the scope, gives me some brass, and starts the barrel break in. Barrel break in will allow the bullets to work out any burrs, to give me a better idea of what hand loads will do.

 

[Mark37082]

If factory ammo is readily available, buy a box of the cheapest you can find. Mount the scope appropriately and get it settled in on paper. Buy a sufficient supply of the best brass you can find, and start the process of finding what load your rifle likes.

 

[txaggie1]

It depends, allot of new are weatherby's and the factory ammo (IMO) isn't to shabby so if I have a load I like shoots good, I don't get crazy on components. They aren't cheap to load for either.

Example - factory 6.5rpm and 6.5-300 i purchased 130 scirocco's and they shoot very well in both my backcountries. That's what i would load 130 class fast bullets - so why bother. I purchased a couple hundred rounds of each. Crono the ammo and order my cds dial and I'm ready. Just me - i don't have to make loads for everything. But if i want to I'll do what has been previously stated - get good brass cheap ammo (if there's such a thing these days - lol) and roll your own later.

 

[floyd kittrell]

Either will work. I normally start my BREAK IN and pressure test at Same time in .5 graduating increments in 3 rounds per powder load and at least 10 sets for 30 rounds . All barrels are different! After l find my load and proof it to 600 yds for hunting I proof it every year because every barrel I have owned always speeds up somewhere between 70 and 150 rounds through the barrel. JMHO

 

[highfinblue]

I would make sure all my base screws, and ring screws were torqued according to manufacturer specs, then follow the advice above. Depending on what you are planning on doing and how far you desire to shoot accurately makes a huge difference in what you spend on ammunition; if you're simply wanting a rifle accurate to 300 yards to hunt deer sized game, I wouldn't even go to the trouble of reloading. Today's factory ammo is absolutely up to that task, but if you're going to shoot large volume you can save some money reloading unless you have to start from scratch, and then I would look at buying some used equipment. I started out over forty years ago by buying a press, and a large cardboard box of components from an older gentleman giving it up. I still have some of the stuff, and it's been a fun ride, not quite ready to give it up yet though lol.

 

[KsKevin]

I start with my new brass and step powder charges so I can accomplish barrel break-in, fire-forming brass to my chamber, and start to get a ROUGH idea on starting load development all simultaneously.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

For me, it really depends on the circumstances, but I have come to realize, that I don't have much use for factory brass once I've fired it once. There are some small exceptions like buying factory 308 ammo, and then using the brass for my AR10, where on the second loading if the brass flies and I don't find it, I'm not heart-broken.

Most of the time, I use custom brass, and components to make the first shots out of the gun. I start with a very mild load that I nail down based on book numbers, trusted sites/people, and back it down a grain or so, depending on the source and exact match to what I am doing (Gun, Powder, bullet, seating depth, etc).

One advantage I have found to that method, as I did on my recent load development for a 300 WSM hunting rifle. I worked up a generic 'mild load' based on info from various sources, and low and behold, I found a load that the rifle liked with excellent velocity, excellent accuracy, and all within about 30 shots. I was using a premium bullet, so it saved me a bunch of money, time and powder, not to mention, I didn't have to spend $75/box x2 for factory that I have no intention on using on the hunt.

I think that as you gain confidence in your loading skills, shooting reloads out of your rifle as the first rounds through it is not just possible, but practical, and economic.

 

[Chas1]

If factory ammo is readily available, buy a box of the cheapest you can find. Mount the scope appropriately and get it settled in on paper. Buy a sufficient supply of the best brass you can find, and start the process of finding what load your rifle likes.

+1

 

[Horse1]

3-5 extra loads @ my staring powder charge to get the scope close.

 

[JustMe2]

First, clean the new, never been fired, barrel and oil the bolt runners and firing pin assembly. Check the stock screws for proper torque and that barrel is floated.

Second, boresight and level the scope. Clean, then tighten, all screws & holes. Loctite (blue) the scope base screws to the action. Clean and tighten ring screws (torque to manuf specification) without Loctite. Do Not Overtighten and crush the scope tube. Buy an inch pound torque wrench (not a foot pound torque).

Third, sight-in the rifle. Use whatever ammo you have that is cheap or just convenient. Use a bullet weight you plan to hunt with so zero is close to final ammo. The zero and speed will change a little after the 1st 50-100 rounds on factory barrels. Custom barrels don't change much so, for these, I start with whatever quality ammo I think will be my final reload or factory hunting ammo. Always shoot 5 rounds, then adjust the scope from the Middle of the group (not one shot then adjust).

 

[cajun]

If it's a popular round with factory ammo available I may use that. Otherwise I load a pressure ladder from mid to max charge with a few extra at the bottom end for sighting in. Most good lapped barrels don't require much break in. Your just breaking in the throat. When I say pressure ladder I mean one round per charge just to get an idea where max is. It will usually change a bit once the brass is fire formed. Goal is to get the throat broke in and my initial brass fire formed.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

3-5 extra loads @ my staring powder charge to get the scope close.

I neglected to mention that. I do that as well. I make up 3-5 extras for site in.