New Reloader with Question on Resizing

Do we have any reloaders on this forum from around semmes ala. or wilmer ala. 36587 area. That have there own shooting range. Please contact me through this forum. I hear regular shooting near by and would like to meet them.
 
Do we have any reloaders on this forum from around semmes ala. or wilmer ala. 36587 area. That have there own shooting range. Please contact me through this forum. I hear regular shooting near by and would like to meet them.
You will have better luck posting this question in the south regional forum rather than a thread with a question about case resizing.
 
I FL every time, but then again I never gave neck only a try for comparison. I guess the reason is I use the same cartridge for more than 1 firearm. I use the Lee FC die on every round whether it be BA or semi's (AR or not). This is what works for me, so you'll find out what works for you regardless of others and their input (yes, that includes me).
I've been reloading over 40 years and back in the 80s several of us started neck sizing with our standard FL SIZING dies. We would run the die into the press a little at a time until about 1/2 to 2/3 of the neck resized. We believed at the time that the fat neck would help center the bullet in the bore and improve accuracy. I did shoot some great groups back then but I shot alot of bad ones too. I also left my 7Mag in the truck and the temp dropped to zero over night, the ammo was inside my right pants pocket. when I got to my stand i had to force the bolt closed. I went back to full length and we didn't measure it. We just ran the die down till it touched the shell holder and camed over. I have no idea how far we were pushing the shoulder back, didn't know how to measure It and didn't care back then. I used standard old Rcbs dies and reloaded for 308, -06, and 3 belted magnums. I shot em till the case necks split then tossed em, and then only the ones that actually split. i measure now but back then it's possible I could have been pushing shoulders back as much as .008-.010. Case head separation right? Wrong! I have never actually seen a case head separation. I've seen pictures and heard stories but I don't know anyone that has ever had it happen. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just that it's not as common as some would have you believe. The way we ignorantly abused brass in the 80s and 90s, I should have witnessed at least one. I knew how to check for it in my belted magnums but I threw them away with neck spits before the case separation ever happened.

I load for several different rifles. My main one's were belted mag. I would lose a case with base separation in 3 to 4 firing. There is ways to check for it. I went to neck sizing with my belted mag cases. That stopped case separation at the base. I would generally lose my case to primer pocket getting to large in 10 to 14 firing after that. It can be done with FL dies. Neck spliting will be reduce by annealing your cases. Learn to bump your cases with full length dies, back .002" or close to that. I would go to bushing die at the start that way you are not getting two sets of dies in the long run. That way you can increase the tension on the necks as wanted. Most of the bushing dies don't come with bushing. Those are order out separately. You will need measure inside and outside dia and case lengths.
Unknown just what equipment you have presently either, or I missed that. I am not going to say what equipment by name. That's your choice, and pocket.
YOU NOW STARTED DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE!😊
 
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I had to learn to FL Resize first to understand the pros and cons between the two. I now get away with several neck sizeings before I need to FL resize. Certian calibers,quality of brass,a hot loads,hunting loads and others all play in the part of deciding when to FL or NS. You are always safe to FL.
 
I'm new to this forum and new to reloading which is part of why I joined. I have gathered everything I need to reload for each chambering and cartridge that I currently have. I've had people tell me that I need to resize my brass and I've had people tell me it's not necessary. What is the consensus, or is there one and am I just opening a canna worms? I don't know what I should

That said,
I'm new to this forum and new to reloading which is part of why I joined. I have gathered everything I need to reload for each chambering and cartridge that I currently have. I've had people tell me that I need to resize my brass and I've had people tell me it's not necessary. What is the consensus, or is there one and am I just opening a canna worms? I don't know what I should FL with Neck size every time.

I'm new to this forum and new to reloading which is part of why I joined. I have gathered everything I need to reload for each chambering and cartridge that I currently have. I've had people tell me that I need to resize my brass and I've had people tell me it's not necessary. What is the consensus, or is there one and am I just opening a canna worms? I don't know what I should do. Thanks
Full length with neck bushing every time. Sholder bump .002.

The only time I will neck size only is when I'm working with belted magnums. Belted magnums are hard on separation issues. Doing neck only gets a few more firings out of them. However, there are times when I must FL size them due to case growth. Hope this helps. Stay safe and have fun!
 
I load for several different rifles. My main one's were belted mag. I would lose a case with base separation in 3 to 4 firing. There is ways to check for it. I went to neck sizing with my belted mag cases. That stopped case separation at the base. I would generally lose my case to primer pocket getting to large in 10 to 14 firing after that. It can be done with FL dies. Neck spliting will be reduce by annealing your cases. Learn to bump your cases with full length dies, back .002" or close to that. I would go to bushing die at the start that way you are not getting two sets of dies in the long run. That way you can increase the tension on the necks as wanted. Most of the bushing dies don't come with bushing. Those are order out separately. You will need measure inside and outside dia and case lengths.
Unknown just what equipment you have presently either, or I missed that. I am not going to say what equipment by name. That's your choice, and pocket.
YOU NOW STARTED DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE!😊
Without pulling up other post from other threads I've posted about the subject I'll just state again. I started with 264wm (so, ya it's belted) back in '84 on reloading using win super-x cases and still use them to this date. All were FL sized and most were above book charges by 1/2 grain. Not any Lapua, ADG or any other of what some call best brass mfg's. No neck splits or case separations on 10+ firings. I've used the same 200 pieces of 80's brass over and over again. I don't anneal, because I don't have the machine for it (I would like 1 some day). I won't cast doubt on what other do, only state what has worked for me.
 
Without pulling up other post from other threads I've posted about the subject I'll just state again. I started with 264wm (so, ya it's belted) back in '84 on reloading using win super-x cases and still use them to this date. All were FL sized and most were above book charges by 1/2 grain. Not any Lapua, ADG or any other of what some call best brass mfg's. No neck splits or case separations on 10+ firings. I've used the same 200 pieces of 80's brass over and over again. I don't anneal, because I don't have the machine for it (I would like 1 some day). I won't cast doubt on what other do, only state what has worked for me.
Back in the 70's and 80's all I used was Win. and Rem. brass. I never had any problems with it. Never weighed them. All I knew was Rem. was softer and Win. Harder. Used some Federal also later on. Don't remember having problems with it either.
 

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