Need answer ASAP

Hacksaw it. I've done it to every EGW and Weaver 20 MOA rail I've owned (and a couple of buddies). Chuck it in a vice, hacksaw, dress with file, finish with sand paper, then a couple coats of matte black rattle can, and you can't tell it wasn't made that way without close inspection.
 
My neck starts to hurt if the rings are to high, regardless of a good cheek rest... got to be comfortable behind the rifle.
 
RockyMtnMT said:
Cut it off!
Click to expand...
I should add, the whole process takes 15 minutes, and don't spray paint your sleeves. Hold the stupid thing with a pair of vice grips or something...Don't ask me how I know.

In all seriousness, if you're not familiar with surface prep and taping off overspray areas, just remember. It's gonna be under the scope bell. Anyone who's looking carefully there, is just weird...:confused:
 
Even thought you already cut the rail, often times higher rings/more scope clearance can help reduce the effect of the mirage that comes off of the barrel after shot strings greater than 3-4 rounds. It definitely won't eliminate the mirage if your shooting 10+ shot strings but it can help.

I always make sure I have between 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance between the scope objective and the barrel. Of course if it is a hunting rifle and you don't shoot a bunch, you want it as close as you can get it.
 
Taller mounts for comfort. A more neutral head position will shrink your groups; if you were uncomfortable or straining before.
 
Clem Bronkoski said:
Well I had high rings on my rifle and had quite a bit of space between the barrel and the bottom of the scope. So I went and bought a set of medium height rings and put them on figuring there would be no problem. But alas it didn't work out. The bell of the scope is hitting the rail!
My only other option is to remove the scope and the rail and cut about an inch off of it. This would not effect the mounting screws but I'm sure the cut would be as ugly as sin using a hacksaw. I could use a Dremel tool and then buff it up. What say you all? It seems like a lot of work for about 1/4" of scope height.
Click to expand...
I misunderstood where you were cutting the rail. I would definitely cut the rail shorter in length, I thought you were going to try and shorten the height. Lol
 
sea2summit said:
If you're doing extremely large obj lens or long scope with a canted mount maybe. I like to keep them as close to the bore as possible.
Click to expand...

Personally, I feel if your front objective bell is any more than a 1/4" above the barrel, the scope is mount too high. Lower is all ways better.
 
I like the lowest rings that don't create interference between parts, i.e.: objective to barrel or other structure, bolt handle to ocular, and if packing in a scabbard, smaller scabbard size. Adjustable cheek riser and length of pull solve any fit problems for me or other shooters, especially when sharing a rifle ( new shooter trying out the sport, for example). I've read that higher sight axis over bore axis can add a little reach for the same elevation setting, but I never bothered to do the math to test that claim.
 
Clem Bronkoski said:
Is there an advantage to mounting a scope using higher rings than necessary? My rifle has and adjustable cheekpiece so aligning my eye to the scope is no problem.
Click to expand...
No scope height affects calculated point,impact. Just,do what is comfortable for you to get a good cheek weld and easy to acquire sight,picture
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Similar threads

B
looking answers
Replies
2
Views
1K
Fiftydriver
Fiftydriver
C
Newbie looking for answers?
Replies
1
Views
1K
slymule
S
C
Need advice
Replies
7
Views
705
nksmfamjp
nksmfamjp
S
Need help
Replies
5
Views
1K
Erich Lep
Erich Lep
F
Need advice
Replies
5
Views
1K
charles bonner
C

Recent Posts

Top