Neck Turning Depth?

the picture link works . from that view it's hard for me to say for sure , it looks like you might be into the shoulder a little deep for my liking . I just kind of blend into or scratch the shoulder , not cut in .
 
How do you know if it is to deep? Shoot one and see what happens? I went that deep because I wasn't wanting a donut to form. But if it is to deep you can't add it back. Thanks for the reply Jim
 
How do you know if it is to deep? Shoot one and see what happens? I went that deep because I wasn't wanting a donut to form. But if it is to deep you can't add it back. Thanks for the reply Jim
Cut it in half length wise and measure the thickness. Like said before all you should have to do is barely kiss the shoulder. I wouldn't shoot it.
 
It looks a little deep to me. I just try and touch the shoulder area with the cutter blade , but not dig into it.
 
that is to much for me. are you using neck dies to neck down? try turning most when still 7mm then clean up when you get to .257
 
Pretty sure that is too much into the shoulder. Take the advice above and do not fire it.

There is not a definite answer to "How much is too much", but it's better to be safe than fishing the separated neck out of your chamber or barrel, with each shot.
 
IMG_20171210_214018.jpg


There's mine for comparison. 7mm SAUM actually, some are 300 necked down. I'm using a PMA Tools Turner with the appropriate cutter, 30°. When I'm turning them some get a decent a full blade cut on the shoulder and some just get kissed. After I'm done I spin them with some 0000 steel wool just to smooth everything up.

Here is a case completely polished up before annealing.
 
that's how they should look. the Forster might have the wrong angle cutter I use the Sinclair kit from Brownells and they look like yours
 
IMG_20171210_214018.jpg


There's mine for comparison. 7mm SAUM actually, some are 300 necked down. I'm using a PMA Tools Turner with the appropriate cutter, 30°. When I'm turning them some get a decent a full blade cut on the shoulder and some just get kissed. After I'm done I spin them with some 0000 steel wool just to smooth everything up.

Here is a case completely polished up before annealing.
Looks similar to what I do
 
How does this look for cut into shoulder for neck turning?
https://scontent-dft4-3.xx.fbcdn.ne...=a83c9312e7254c7b267bd29d9c1be6d5&oe=5ABEA96D

Maybe the picture doesn't work? Whats the best way to post a picture?


This is just a description of the way I turn the necks.

I always use a cutter that has the same shoulder angle or radius as the case and never quite cut into the shoulder. I try to come just short by a few thousandths so I don't thin the case at the neck shoulder junction.

I know you said that you did not want a Donut but if you cut close enough the first firing will redistribute what little is left and there will be no thinning in this area.

I use to try to turn into the shoulder, and I started lousing necks in the chamber.so I went back to leaving just a little of the neck un turned.

If you did thin the neck shoulder junction, Be carful and inspect your cases after each firing.

Everyone probably performs this task differently, but is a very important step in my opinion. I like the looks of Smokingholes turning
but I would probably thin the shoulder If I cut that close.

Some like the donut because it reinforces the neck shoulder junction.
I prefer to turn all Of my cases before they are loaded for the first time and always, when necking up or down on my wildcats. this assures that after fire forming, the chamber can true the case up.

Just the way I turn cases.

J E CUSTOM
 
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