Muzzle brakes? 6.5 mm favorites and oversized performance.

Have a 264 WM barrel, 5/8 x 24, and need a brake for it. Couple questions.

1) What are the "best" brakes these days. Full stop, no constraints.

2) What would you go with if constrained by A) 0.670" shoulder and the urge to keep the aesthetics nice with a brake that has a similar size and round shape... and B) No more than ~2" added length to the barrel.

3) What sort of performance degradation will you see if you use a larger brake? I have a 30 cal OEM brake from a Savage Long Range Hunter. It performed satisfactorily for 300WM, and is about the right length and diameter to look good on my 264 barrel. And it's FREE!

I don't want to hear any "WHY WOULD YOU BRAKE A 264!" and "BRAKES ARE LOUD!" nonsense. I like them, and you won't change my mind. I want as little recoil as possible, as this setup is intended for new shooters and long sessions of target shooting. I wear ear pro for all shots, hunting included, so noise is not an issue.

So what say ye?

The best one I've read about...

This video says it all:


Company's website:
https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/collections/gen-3-muzzle-brakes
 
I'm new to the world of muzzle breaks, but I have an Area 419 Hellfire on my 300 WM and to me the recoil is super soft. Way lighter than my unbraked .45-70's and 30-06's. My buddy said it reminded him of a .243, but I've never shot one so I can't verify his statement. Since having this muzzle break, I think all my future rifles will either have one or be threaded so I can add one if I'd like.
 
I saw a comparison once of recoil energy reduction using a .30 cal brake on 6.5 and it was highly effective--not a significant difference over a dedicated 6.5mm brake. Most certainly not enough to offset the "free" factor!
 



I have a baby beast 3 port (https://muzzlebrakesandmore.com/beast-1-piece) tapered down to the muzzle diameter on my 12yo daughters 6.5cm--- she likes it--the oa diam is .750 but it is tapered down to .635IIRC (this dimention will depend on your thread size, muzzle diam, shoulder thickness) --it is 2.2" but obviously overlaps the barrel threads by about 1/2" or so so it adds about 1.75" to the length, weighs 2.5oz and costs $85 shipped
 
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Is there any problem with just using a crush washer to time a brake? e.g. AR15 style?

I do have access to a lathe, but it might be a tedious process, as I don't feel comfortable taking a barreled action into work, and presumably, I can't time it till the barrel is installed.
 
I bought my buddy a gen2 APA micro bastard. Light weight, self timing and didn't add much in length. Which will work perfectly for what your after. I love the terminator brakes. They just run a bit longer and don't have many self timing brakes, none really for shorter weight barrels

I bought an APA gen3 little bastard for my Gap10. Most of my gun's recoil comes from the bolt cycling.

I rock a small Painkiller brake on my 300AX but I've kinda have reservations about running a brake with top ports on thinner barrels
 
You can have the barrel installed and then you can add a mark to the top of it with sharpie, Remove the barrel, and then just face it until it's horizontal to the mark. If you off a degree or two you'll ever notice. You can also screw it on, guess how many Degrees your off, and then trig that out based on the fact that if it's a 24 pitch thread, facing off .0416" get you a full revolution. Say your off by 45 degrees, you remove .0052".
 
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