Locktite marine epoxy and what release agent

Thanks guys. I kind of wondered about getting anxious which is why I asked.

Marine Tex says the thinner it is spread the longer it takes to cure. The thicker the faster. Seems backwards but the heat generation factor must come in to play.

As small and thin as some of the side places are figured I better wait but wanted to be sure.
 
Here are a couple pics. Was gonna get in between pic too and forgot. Got to be about 1:00 AM and I got in a hurry.
I used a wood shim like you set doors and windows with. This way I could push hard on the mag and trigger slot with modeling clay. No fear of it slipping and moving. Just used pliers to break it to the right size.

In the stock I put the floor plate in and shoved a wood shim in it. The used Saran Wrap and filled it with clay.

Marine Tex gray? Looks black to me??? Which it is a black stock so even better.
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This stuff is Legit!
 

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There are a couple of suggestions I had not heard of like Pam spray oil or Hornady case lube.

I once used a Silicone spray. I'm in Australia the brand escapes me but there are silicon sprays that are effectively a dry lube. This particular can was used on a machine at work as a lubricant but I read mould release on the tin and gave it a go.

We do have Kiwi polish and Johnson s floor wax here.
 
Here are a couple pics. Was gonna get in between pic too and forgot. Got to be about 1:00 AM and I got in a hurry.
I used a wood shim like you set doors and windows with. This way I could push hard on the mag and trigger slot with modeling clay. No fear of it slipping and moving. Just used pliers to break it to the right size.

In the stock I put the floor plate in and shoved a wood shim in it. The used Saran Wrap and filled it with clay.

Marine Tex gray? Looks black to me??? Which it is a black stock so even better.
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Will be interesteds to see what it looks like when you pop it out. Next time try a little Hopes 9 on a paper towel and a popsicle stick to clean up the edges. It will clean up the squeeze out perfectly and make a smoother finished product at the top edge of the stock.
 
Will be interesteds to see what it looks like when you pop it out. Next time try a little Hopes 9 on a paper towel and a popsicle stick to clean up the edges. It will clean up the squeeze out perfectly and make a smoother finished product at the top edge of the stock.
Well here is an "unboxing" picture. Mess and all. Nothing cleaned up. More to follow.
Just wish I had taken a pic of the trigger area before. I now have to figure out what needs cleaned out and what doesn't.

I used carnauba car wax. Wiped on let dry and polished. Wiped on again let dry and polished. The epoxy is smooth!!!!!!!
There are two voids up front where it sunk away into the holes by the front screw. This stock has more air cavities than mold material. CHEAP!!!

Right in front of the magazine is a channeled out spot that I was hoping would mold perfect. It would have acted like a second recoil lug. As luck would have it I didn't get all the air out it the hole in the stock and it settled leaving a gap.
Rest of it looks good. If this wasn't just my daughters deer gun I would try to rebed those two holes. If I do another one I might just try to fill those two spots in.
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Not bad but that epoxy was still too soft. It should have been allowed to set longer. Filling in enough epoxy to not have voids is still a critical part to getting a quality job. Better more squeeze out than voids. This is not meant as criticism, we all had to learn. It is meant to try and help shorten the learning curve. Keep at it, won't take long before they are perfect.
 
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Wow, you did great for your first try. I'm less worried about how it looks (barrel & action cover it up) & more interested in how it works & it looks like you got the bedding in the critical places in the right amounts. Nice!
 
Not bad but that epoxy was still too soft. It should have been allowed to set longer. Filling in enough epoxy to not have voids is still a critical part to getting a quality job. Better more squeeze out than voids. This is not meant as criticism, we all had to learn. It is meant to try and help shorten the learning curve. Keep at it, won't take long before they are perfect.
I take criticism well and appreciate the advice. It said 24 hours on the Marine Tex and I waited about 36 for full cure.

I also used all 2 ounces in the trial kit. This stock had more voids than support. I did end up with some of the epoxy ran in between the clay I had in the action and the clay in the stock. None of it pulled apart due to cure time it just had some voids due to it running into places it shouldn't have.

I am already trying to come up with ideas on how to make sure it doesn't run away next time. Up front it just ran into a lot of small holes that I couldn't get it pushed into. Luckily by the lug the holes were huge and I had no trouble getting it down in and getting air out.

Here she is bolted up.
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I use the Brownells Accra release and it worked great. Used Hornady one shot on another rifle it didn't work as well as the Accra release. Also used shoe polish and broke the stock getting it off, was jb weld and a plastic savage stock. The hornady one shot was a Ruger m77 markii and jb weld, the brownells Accra release was a Bergara hmr b14 with marine Tex my 3rd stock and the best turn out so far and released the easiest with very little cleanup on the action.
 
I was actually surprised how easy this popped apart. Marine Tex and Formula 1 Carnauba car wax. (All I could find in our small town)
 
Very nice for your first job. You let it set plenty long enough, that has nothing to do with the voids. Simply didn't get the air out and it sunk down, it's a pain but you gotta smush it into those spots a whole bunch. Good stock to do a first bedding on too, if you mess it up, it's a cheapo stock, not a $600+ Manners.

One other thing to do on future bed jobs, or if this one has issues, is use a dremmel and make a couple reliefs where the trigger pins are. You are probably fine, but if the trigger pins come in contact with the bedding, it can cause accuracy issues. If you look at my post, post #16, you can see where I made relief voids for them, as well as the bolt release pin. Probably wasn't necessary on the bolt release pin, but I did it anyway.
 
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