Locktite marine epoxy and what release agent

[bluedog69]

Very nice for your first job. You let it set plenty long enough, that has nothing to do with the voids. Simply didn't get the air out and it sunk down, it's a pain but you gotta smush it into those spots a whole bunch. Good stock to do a first bedding on too, if you mess it up, it's a cheapo stock, not a $600+ Manners.

One other thing to do on future bed jobs, or if this one has issues, is use a dremmel and make a couple reliefs where the trigger pins are. You are probably fine, but if the trigger pins come in contact with the bedding, it can cause accuracy issues. If you look at my post, post #16, you can see where I made relief voids for them, as well as the bolt release pin. Probably wasn't necessary on the bolt release pin, but I did it anyway.

Thanks for the tip on the pins. I did dremel out more than what the picture shows. Especially where the bolt release was. I was trying to leave as much epoxy in this flimsy stock as possible, but discovered that I had to take more out to get it back in place.
I will go back and look at your post.

 

[bluedog69]

Any carnuba wax works great. I have used carnuba wax, kiwi clear shoe polish, johnsons paste wax etc., they all work pretty similar. Do as stated, apply a coat, buff off, apply another coat, and buff it off well. If you buff it to a polish finish, you get a tighter more precise fit, and it looks a lot nicer for the finished product. The very small layer is plenty to release from the bedding, I have never had one stick doing it this way, and I have bedded quite a few. As far as material for bedding, I have only used Devcon, but have heard marine tex is very good too, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.


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That does look pretty snazzy!!! I have a ways to go to catch up to that!!!

 

[bluedog69]

So I have cut it down from an occasional 3" 3 shot group to 2" 4 shot is the worst.
I had only tried 117 Hornady SSTs with IMR 4350 in it. So I also tried some Sierra 100 and 117 SBT with the 4350. They all shot a 2" 4 shot group. I then switched to Retumbo(which I have less than a pound of) and printed 3 shots tight and the flier made it a 4 shot 1" group.
Today I hope to check 4 Sierra 117's and another 4 Hornady 117 SSTs with Retumbo.

Yesterday the 1" 4 shot group was definitely the best this rifle has done.

Here is a 3" group before bedding.
A 2" after bedding.
And the best 4 switching to Retumbo.

 

[Dean2]

Looks like the bedding helped but switching powders seems to have helped even more. You have a good start, just have to find more Retumbo, which hasn't been easy to come by lately.

 

[bluedog69]

Looks like the bedding helped but switching powders seems to have helped even more. You have a good start, just have to find more Retumbo, which hasn't been easy to come by lately.

Well I do think it has helped but still a long way from MOA or under. Here is another four shot with Retumbo and the Sierra 117. Also a four shot with SSTs and Retumbo.

I may try trigger adjust next. This thing is very very stiff. 5lbs? Frustrating. I have maybe spotted that most fliers are to the right. Could that be super stiff trigger?

 

[Dean2]

The stiff trigger is not helping. Assumming you are right handed, trigger squeeze will cause you to pull to the right. Try using tip of your finger and concentrate on squeezing straight back. You also must ensure breathing, grip strength and cheek weld are identical every time. Also,, is there parralax on your scope and are all scope mounts tight. I ask becasue your groups are jumping around. That may just be the different bullets but I thought I would ask. Can you regularly shoot sub MOA with lighter recoiling rifles? Can you get tiny groups at 100 with a 223 for instance.

You also might want to try some 100 and some 85 grain bullets in the TTSX style or Hammers. Some of the Rem 25-06 are not too fond of the heavier stuff

 

[bluedog69]

The stiff trigger is not helping. Assumming you are right handed, trigger squeeze will cause you to pull to the right. Try using tip of your finger and concentrate on squeezing straight back. You also must ensure breathing, grip strength and cheek weld are identical every time. Also,, is there parralax on your scope and are all scope mounts tight. I ask becasue your groups are jumping around. That may just be the different bullets but I thought I would ask. Can you regularly shoot sub MOA with lighter recoiling rifles? Can you get tiny groups at 100 with a 223 for instance.

You also might want to try some 100 and some 85 grain bullets in the TTSX style or Hammers. Some of the Rem 25-06 are not too fond of the heavier stuff

Well I just checked it with a fish scale. I also checked the fish scale with a five pound weight and some other 2 and 3 pound weights. All read dead on.
So is 7lbs a stiff trigger? I did it two or three times and it broke at 7 every time. I reweighed the other items and they all weighed accurate. So I think I would trust this scale.
Yes I have no trouble shooting sub MOA big or small. 223 or 300 RUM. This is my daughters gun and it was acting funky right before deer season last year. (New rifle) She ended up hunting with my old ADL 30-06 instead. I thought I might be her scope. It is new too but I now think it is tracking decent and her gun was just shooting pretty lose groups. I usually trust one shot then move scope. Well ya can't do this with this gun. Getting better and I would trust killing a deer at 100 easily. Haven't shot 200 yet but will.
So I am wondering if 7 lbs is enough to cause the pull right after it breaks even though I am dead steady and squeezing?

Here is a six shot group in 15/16" from my new 7 mag Savage high Country. First three went 3/8". These six shots were two three shot groups on separate days even.

 

[Dean2]

Yes 7 lbs is enough to cause stinging. I would take it down to 3 or replace the trigger. I bet if you measure the Savage it will be around 3. I have guns with triggers as light as a few ounces but I don't go below 2.5 on a hunting rifle.

 

[bluedog69]

Yes 7 lbs is enough to cause stinging. I would take it down to 3 or replace the trigger. I bet if you measure the Savage it will be around 3. I have guns with triggers as light as a few ounces but I don't go below 2.5 on a hunting rifle.

Thanks a bunch!!! Appreciate it. Now I need to research how to set one. Last time I did a 700 trigger was late 80s. 7 mag I bought used. Slam the bolt hard and it let the firing pin down. I had to adjust it the other way. Way too touchy. Thanks again.

 

[Frog4aday]

Another thought to consider is action screw torque. Might try 45 in/lb on the front & 25 in/lb in back. Shoot a good 3 shot group (no called fliers) then go up by 5 in/lb increments (front & back) until you get to 65 front/45 back. See if there is a sweet spot in there that the gun really seems to like. This often works on the tang model Ruger 77s, so worth a shot here, too.

 

[Dosh]

Yes, make sure its the Gray one like in the picture.

The white Marine Tex isn't as strong and shouldn't be used for bedding. Don't ask how I know.

 

[bluedog69]

The white Marine Tex isn't as strong and shouldn't be used for bedding. Don't ask how I know.

Well is the gray actually black?

 

[CaptDru]

Well is the gray actually black?

Yes

 

[bluedog69]

Another thought to consider is action screw torque. Might try 45 in/lb on the front & 25 in/lb in back. Shoot a good 3 shot group (no called fliers) then go up by 5 in/lb increments (front & back) until you get to 65 front/45 back. See if there is a sweet spot in there that the gun really seems to like. This often works on the tang model Ruger 77s, so worth a shot here, too.

I have heard of finding sweet spot but never had it described in that procedure before. I am hoping that 7 lb trigger is the culprit. I usually don't see a pattern to any fliers. This was the first time I noticed all of them right. Which starts to point to me/trigger pulling them right.
Thanks for the info. I consume all info I can on this kind of stuff.