I've used Devcon and J B Marine epoxy for bedding. For release agent I've used brown Kiwi shoe polish (it's what I had on hand) and Johnson's polish. Never had one stick. I've only done about ten rifles though. I also use modeling clay anywhere I don't want the epoxy to go.
Locktite marine epoxy and what release agent
- Thread starter bluedog69
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
What was the measured thickness of paste wax, versus the aerosol- and by what method?
After the solvents evaporate, I see virtually no evidence at all of the release agent.
I don't have a measuring tool that would accurately measure the difference but after bedding as many as I have I can feel the difference when taking the gun in and out of the bedded stock. Bed two Remingtin 700s and u too will be able to feel the difference. You can also see the difference in the finish of the bedding material. A buffed wax released stainless action will show all the tiny indentations that unpolished stainless has whereas the spray release does not show them. It is because the spray release fills in those tiny indentations.
Stormy1
New Member
So in the boat world when I need a release agent for anything in the marine fiberglass world with our without gelcoat, I used this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Evercoat-Release-Agent-8-Ounce/dp/B00144B4EM If you are using a marine epoxy why not use the marine release agent recommended for that epoxy. What I would do to preserve my mold plugs is put two layers of blue painters tape on the plug first then apply the release agent. Those two layers of tape are pretty much what you need anyway to free float the barrel.. One thing I would suggest is to test the solution first on some other part. Even if its two pieces of PVC pipe, one smaller than the other see how they work. We would band saw pipe length wise and use that as the outer or mold part and then glass in a smaller pipe with the release agent to see how it was going to work, what the reaction exotherm would be (we measured that to know when things were done and when to start our cure timer) and then after cure, if things would let go / release properly. The a 700 your biggest challenge will be the protective taping of everywhere you don't want glass to go.. Take your time, check it two or three times at least.. once you set that action in there, its all over but the slow driving.
I just bedded a stock with Marine Tex. Used Epoxease Mold Release. Cheapest aerosol I could find. Worked great. Probably enough to do 20 guns or more. The main ingredient is synthetic Carnuba wax. Paid a little over $6 a can plus shipping...
Is it pretty simple to punch out the trigger assembly and the bolt retainer?
I have done one glass bed job on a muzzleloader and all it had was one Allen head to remove it.
Was gonna try to do it with it on there but I figure its much safer with it off.
I have done one glass bed job on a muzzleloader and all it had was one Allen head to remove it.
Was gonna try to do it with it on there but I figure its much safer with it off.
codyadams
Well-Known Member
Strip it completely. This is what some of mine look like. Take your time on the prep, it's the most important part!!! It is better to use more plumpers putty blocking things off than not enough and get a mechanical lock. If your unsure how to do something, there are youtube videos of just about everything to watch. It is pretty simple.
Dru: How did you create the flat edges?
Painters tape and q-tip with denatured alcohol.
Murtfree
Well-Known Member
I see a lot of different ways of bedding pictured here and I'm not sure what the purpose of bedding the entire length of the action is (magazine box/rail/trigger area)…..in fact I was always told that was detrimental to accuracy. Granted it looks nice but at both gun shops I worked at we only bedded behind the trigger area at the rear tang and in front of the magazine area up to the recoil lug; we also inserted aluminum pillars at the action screws but everything else on the action was free floated as well as the barrel. Not saying it's wrong but just curious as to the reason…..I still like to learn after nearly 50 years of building. By the way we always used Brownells Release agent and I just bought another can
So how long do I wait before I break it loose? It has been about 8 hours. I used Marine Tex. This morning has been super hectic was going to ask this a long time ago. I have turned the screws to check them several times. I used the factories and coated them well.
Let it dry completely. Mistake many guys make is they get anxious about it locking in and pop it out too soon. It does a far better job if fully dry and it pops out easier. If you have a mechanical lock it will be an issue now or in ten more hours.
I waited 24hrs before I popped the action out of the stock.
