Load data for 10mm

[WYO300RUM]

I'm not sure I would ever use a Lewis lead remover in a decent barrel. I have one and it uses a coarse bronze or brass screen to get the lead out. You might as well use a stainless brush and beach sand to clean your barrel! Even though I haven't tried it yet, I would think that the Birchwood Casey cloth lead remover is probably better.

There is one product that stands head and shoulders above the rest when it comes to truly removing lead... the Outers Lead and Copper Remover. It can be messy but essentially uses an electrical current to remove lead (or copper, depending on the chemicals used) to plate a stainless steel rod placed in your barrel. It involves plugging one end of your barrel, standing the barrel vertically, filling it with a specific chemical, depending on what you want to remove, then putting the rod in the barrel, with rubber O rings to keep it from contacting the barrel, then running the current, making the barrel an annode and the rod the cathode (I believe I have those terms right but I wouldn't put money on it! One is the "plater" and the other is the "plate-e"... specifically, the rod gets plated with whatever is in the barrel!). It is the only way to remove lead with chemicals and that does not require scrubbing with something that's probably detrimental to your barrel over the years! I have not tried *any* other chemicals that touch lead chemically. And I've tried a bunch of them! Chemically speaking, if you have a product that is supposed to remove something, if you put it on a piece of what it's supposed to remove, there should be some kind of reaction. For example, if I put a drop of Sweets 7.62 on a piece of brass, at the very least it will discolor the brass (Sweets will, in fact, eat right thru a piece of brass with a few applications!). I've put all the lead removing products I've been able to get my hands on and put drops on a piece of polished lead with a whopping Zip/Nada/nuttin' honey in the way of a reaction from the lead! The stuff wipes off, even after sitting all night, with absolutely no reaction on the lead! The chemicals that do seem to work rely on the lead being on top of a coating of brass left from shooting jacketed bullets! So if you only shoot lead bullets, you're kinda screwed!

If anyone knows of a product that does make lead react, please, let me know! I would like to give it a try!
Cheers,
crkckr

I have never used one. I got it with a bunch of reloading stuff I bought off a lady who's husband had died. I considered it an antique . He had a bunch of old things . It was unused like a lot of his stuff.

 

[azbruce]

I have used Lewis Lead removers for decades. The material used in the screens is the same alloy used in regular bore brushes. It won't damage barrel steel and I have a number of revolvers that have been cleaned with the Lewis tool since the 70's. A properly cast and sized lead bullet won't leave much, if any, lead in the bore. It did take me awhile to learn how to do it right, and I don't use the Lewis much anymore.

 

[sedancowboy]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a Lewis lead remover on heavily fouled bores. We have been using them for years without issue. I have Ed Brown barrels with thousands of rounds through them and cleaned with the Lewis system. They are in pristine condition still. The best trick is to run a patch soaked in Kriol that creeps and wait ten minutes and push the lead out with a bore sized jag and a tight patch. The Kriol creeps under the lead and it slides right out.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Question on bear ammo and smith and Wesson mp10mm...

So with the hard cast bear loads (commercial hsm stuff) not handloads, do I need to be concerned about leading in the factory barrel and how it is cleaned or is the hard cast different than casting your own?

This is my first go with a 10mm and bear loads in preparation for some upcoming hunts out west over the next couple of years.

 

[sedancowboy]

Hard cast will be fine. You can also cast hard bullets at home. I buy mine from Rim Rock Bullets.

 

[esorensen]

If You're shooting cast, why not use a gas check and have that wipe the lead out while you shoot? I shoot hard cast 200gr Beartooth WFNGC bullets over Longshot, and have had zero lead issues in an H&K USP .40 polygonal barrel. I get that as you increase speed, lead will invariably get heated or stripped off. With the GC, the last thing going down the barrel is copper…1000 fps with that 200 gr bullet will make two holes in a bull elk's chest.

 

[Old Rooster]

When I do buy a mold it will be with a gas check.
When we first started using them some called them "Wipers"as they wiped the barrel clean.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Good info thanks guys

 

[cvixx]

I'm not sure I would ever use a Lewis lead remover in a decent barrel. I have one and it uses a coarse bronze or brass screen to get the lead out. You might as well use a stainless brush and beach sand to clean your barrel! Even though I haven't tried it yet, I would think that the Birchwood Casey cloth lead remover is probably better.

There is one product that stands head and shoulders above the rest when it comes to truly removing lead... the Outers Lead and Copper Remover. It can be messy but essentially uses an electrical current to remove lead (or copper, depending on the chemicals used) to plate a stainless steel rod placed in your barrel. It involves plugging one end of your barrel, standing the barrel vertically, filling it with a specific chemical, depending on what you want to remove, then putting the rod in the barrel, with rubber O rings to keep it from contacting the barrel, then running the current, making the barrel an annode and the rod the cathode (I believe I have those terms right but I wouldn't put money on it! One is the "plater" and the other is the "plate-e"... specifically, the rod gets plated with whatever is in the barrel!). It is the only way to remove lead with chemicals and that does not require scrubbing with something that's probably detrimental to your barrel over the years! I have not tried *any* other chemicals that touch lead chemically. And I've tried a bunch of them! Chemically speaking, if you have a product that is supposed to remove something, if you put it on a piece of what it's supposed to remove, there should be some kind of reaction. For example, if I put a drop of Sweets 7.62 on a piece of brass, at the very least it will discolor the brass (Sweets will, in fact, eat right thru a piece of brass with a few applications!). I've put all the lead removing products I've been able to get my hands on and put drops on a piece of polished lead with a whopping Zip/Nada/nuttin' honey in the way of a reaction from the lead! The stuff wipes off, even after sitting all night, with absolutely no reaction on the lead! The chemicals that do seem to work rely on the lead being on top of a coating of brass left from shooting jacketed bullets! So if you only shoot lead bullets, you're kinda screwed!

If anyone knows of a product that does make lead react, please, let me know! I would like to give it a try!
Cheers,
crkckr

A long time ago when the Earth was young, in 1971, I started as a cop in L.A. We fired a lot of soft lead wadcutters back then, and were taught to clean our Model 15s by dunking the barrel and cylinder into a pickle jar (without pickles), filled with Hoppes 7. Worked like a champ; clean bore and decanted the liquid back into the bottle, sans the lead/powder deposits. Some say the formula has changed with time, but sure worked for me back then and kept the instructors off of my back.

 

[Old Rooster]

Good info thanks guys

I just got finished slugging the barrel on the S&W 10mm sierracharlie338 and it measured .397 and I have an email to Underwood Ammo asking for the measurement of the 220 bullet but I expect its at least .402 if I don't get an answer I will break down one of the loaded rounds and measure it myself and then resize the case,open the nose and reload it with the same powder charge I took out.
I will slug the barrel again as soon as I can find another soft lead shank close to that size.
Its warming up here as it will get to 40 degrees today so I may get to shoot it soon.

 

[Old Rooster]

I've seen Hoppes #9 but will look for #7 just incase.Thanks cvixx

 

[WTOBob]

I have a Sig 320 XTEN with 5" barrel. It has a Holosun 407c optic on it. The load I worked up is 10g HS7 and Hornady 180 XTP's. I also have Midway blemished 180 HP's that shoot just as good and a bunch cheaper. Looks like they are Sierras.

 

[sierracharlie338]

I have a Sig 320 XTEN with 5" barrel. It has a Holosun 407c optic on it. The load I worked up is 10g HS7 and Hornady 180 XTP's. I also have Midway blemished 180 HP's that shoot just as good and a bunch cheaper. Looks like they are Sierras.

Had any issues with the 407 and the recoil of the 10mm? I run a 407k on my 9mm carry gun without issues but was just curious.

 

[WTOBob]

Had any issues with the 407 and the recoil of the 10mm? I run a 407k on my 9mm carry gun without issues but was just curious.

None so far. My bud runs one on his duty gun,226 .357 Sig, for about a year now. It takes a beating with him on a SWAT team. I plan on putting them on all of my old carry Sigs.