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Lapping aluminum rings

emtyhopper

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
138
Hello
I have a set of talley lightweight rings on a sedero that need lapped badly. I bought the wheeler lapping kit from midway but have been reading that I should use aluminum oxide instead of the Silicon carbide lapping compound it comes with.
Can anyone tell me where to buy aluminum oxide? The only place I have found it is brownells and it's $30 for 4 oz. Is there a cheaper option?

If anyone has a different opinion on the matter, please let me hear it.

Thanks
 
Do a search on Lapping rings.

There have been loots of discussions on this.

J E CUSTOM

I have done lots of searches over the last week. That's how I read the suggestions to use aluminum oxide instead of the supplied silicon carbide lapping compound.
What I can't find, is where to buy the stuff.
 
J E ,I know Nightforce says Do Not Lap their rings. Should you lap the Talley rings? Thanks.

The reason is simple, Nightforce scopes are heavy and if not done correctly a/any scope can move under recoil.

I use to lap rings and also bought a reamer to true the rings up. I finally realized that the surface of the ring helps grip the scope, and the problem was Installation.

The only ring marks I have ever got on scopes were from the old Weaver with the steel top ring that snaps on (It is more than a half circle).

Now I use an aluminum round bar that matches the OD of the scope and check the alignment before I clamp the scope in. If it doesn't line up then I replace the rings.

Most of the time, I can get the rings perfectly aligned and then I can install the scope without any damage. Occasionally I find one that the manufacture did a poor job boring the rings true, and have to replace them.

If you look at a scope that has ring marks it will be from misalignment and if you ream or lap them it will reduce the holding ability because of the surface or the increase in the ID of the ring. I always did a minimum of lapping and occasionally I would have a scope move on me and the hole process of sighting in had to start all over costing ,more than the difference in a good set of rings and bases and a poor set that had to be reamed or lapped.

When you purchase a new set of rings, I recommend that you mark the rings position and don't turn them around(They are bored in this position and placing the caps on the ring backwards, can defeat
the boring accuracy.

Picatinny style are the easiest to align correctly if you assemble the rings to the Picatinny hand tight, lay the mandrel in and install the caps. if the rings are good and can be aligned, install the scope (The ring to base is still only hand tight) tighten the caps in a crisscross pattern after the scope is aligned and proper eye relief is set. then do a final tightening on the Ring to picatinny base and the little bit of slack in the cross pins will allow the rings to be aligned without marking the scope. also if you change the scope do not loosen the cross bolts on the picatinny rail and the rings will stay In alignment.

Rather than replace the poor rings, some will elect to lap or ream and that's ok if they know what they are doing and don't remove anything that is not absolutely necessary.

When I purchase quality rings ,I expect them to be right and if I install them correctly, they will not mark the scope.

I believe that improper installation and poor quality rings are the major cause of ring marks an I
don't lap or ream any rings. In fact I have a brand new 15 year old reamer that I have never used.
Poor quality/cheep scope mounts are just what the cheep means and you get what you pay for. Why buy/build a rifle that cost $1500.00+ hang a scope that cost $1000.00 and use a set of rings and bases that cost $50.00 to put the scope on. You don't have to spend $400.00+ on a set of rings and bases but get a good set and never look back.

Many will disagree and that is there right, I have had 100 % success with the way I now do ring installation and don't have a single scope that has ring marks.

As Sully2 said "I don't use them"

Just my way and opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
J E Custom,

Not all of us can purchase enough rings to go through several sets to get two that match the action and the scope. When you use a 1" reamer with a 1" scope you are not changing the dimensions. You are changing where the 1" is in relation to the rings base. When I purchased my first expensive scope, a Swarovski z5 5-25X52 and Talleys to put on my Weatherby there was no at my sophistication level to see if the rings were parallel with the action. The Weatherby was the lightest three lug rifle I knew of at the time. I wanted this scope because it was the lightest in the mag range; the Talleys because they were the lightest available.

I used a 1" lapping kit. The 1" rod only touched the high places of the rings. They were touching only on the front edge. Eventually most of the surface was the same so thoroughly the rings and I installed the scope. No ring marks. No slipping.

One can use Burris Signatures which weigh a few more ounces and forget the alignment hassles all together.
 
I agree with J E CUSTOMS if you need to lap a set of rings in my opinion you need to take them back. Spend a little more money and buy top line rings like Nightforce
and be done with it. Only time I can see lapping is on a cheap rifle you use just for target practice or varmint hunting. Expensive rifles need expensive mounting hardware. My take on it anyway from learning the hard way.
 
The only negative to lapping rings that I can think of, is that their re-sale value will be reduced.

Other than that, a light lapping of the lower half of any set of rings can only improve the ring to scope body fit. If the base and ring parts/pieces don't assemble to culminate in a great fit to the scope tube, then proper lapping can only improve the fit between the scope tube to ring mating surfaces. I can't imagine any situation where lapping of the lower half of the scope rings would hurt, rather than improve, the fit between the mating surfaces.

If the fit prior to lapping is way off, something is probably wrong with the rings or bases or the alignment of the base screws on the action.
 
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