Know your chamber

J E Custom

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In the past few years there have been lots of questions on load problems encountered with loading.

Everyone tries to trouble shoot the problem for the poster and after lots of discussions sometimes the poster finds the problem. In most cases the poster should not have had the problem If he/she
knew what there chamber dimensions actually were.

There are basically two types of chambers, SAMMI and Non- SAMMI chambers.

With the SAMMI chambers, the chambers are held to certain dimensions so factory ammo (That is also held to nominal dimensions) can be safely fired in it.

Non SAMMI chambers (Also called wildcats)are anything that Is not within SAMMI design specifications. These can range from simple changes in one dimension, to multiple/major changes
that totally alter the design function of the chamber. Chamber Reamer makers cannot alter these dimensions on a SAMMI reamer. He can, on a wildcat if requested by the owner and it is normally given a non SAMMI name so it will not be confused with a Spec. chamber.

It is the responsibility of the re-loader to understand the cause and effects of these changes and in many cases hear in lies the problem. lots of people hear the changes on the internet that someone has made and what success they have had by making the changes and cant wait to build a rifle with these changes. Having a SAMMI chamber does not mean that you cant have accuracy, In fact it is normally just the opposite. SAMMI chamber are designed to be safe and can be loaded to extreme accuracy with good ammo.

My opinion is that "NO ONE" should load for a firearm without knowing what chamber they have
be it SAMMI or wildcat or even somewhere in between (I have seen many so called SAMMI chambers that were not ether because the reamer was worn and did not cut a dimensionally correct chamber or someone modified the reamer/chamber and did not identify the changes on the barrel.

I meet people all the time that don't own a good loading manual with load data and definitions and say/think they can get all they need on line. This leads to many of the problems we see today. I recommend that any beginner start with a SAMMI chamber, Factory ammo and enjoy. Next start slowly and get into reloading (After buying all of the things you need including a good re loading manual and reading and understanding all of the aspects of reloading and the terms we use all the time and there meaning and their purpose).

Next Log on to = SAAMI And look up The cartridge to be loaded. The top drawing is the SAMMI Spec. for ammo. the second/bottom Drawing is the SAMMI chamber dimensions for that cartridge. print or make notes on key dimensions.

Armed with this information, measure a fired case if you have one to see if your chamber closely matches the fired case (It may be slightly different because of brass Spring back) pro die makers
often want 2nd or 3rd fired brass to build custom dies to be able to closely match your chamber
and do minimum sizing.

If your brass closely matches the SAMMI dimensions, you should be good to go as long as you load SAMMI Spec. ammo. If it does not then you must know what the difference is and how to deal with it.

Loading for anything other than a SAMMI chamber should only be attempted buy someone with experience loading wildcats that understands what each change means and the effect it has on the cartridge.

Long winded, but hopefully it will keep someone out of trouble and generate more questions before trouble shows it's ugly head.

J E CUSTOM
 
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JE,

Good post as always. I value your experience here very much.

What problems in particular are you addressing?

Steve
 
JE,

Good post as always. I value your experience here very much.

What problems in particular are you addressing?

Steve

Thanks Steve. I just thought I would make the less experienced reloaders aware of the differences in chambers and hopefully keep them out of trouble.

There are many issues that some of the more experienced re-loaders deal with all the time.

To name a few.
Tight necks, short throats, short necks, proper head space, Free bore, Seating depth, Cartridge overall length, lead angle, ETC.

These are just some of the issues that can cause the in experienced re loader problems especially if he is not sure exactly what chamber he has.

I would much rather prevent a problem than solve a problem.

J E CUSTOM
 
Thanks Steve. I just thought I would make the less experienced reloaders aware of the differences in chambers and hopefully keep them out of trouble.

There are many issues that some of the more experienced re-loaders deal with all the time.

To name a few.
Tight necks, short throats, short necks, proper head space, Free bore, Seating depth, Cartridge overall length, lead angle, ETC.

These are just some of the issues that can cause the in experienced re loader problems especially if he is not sure exactly what chamber he has.

I would much rather prevent a problem than solve a problem.

J E CUSTOM

Okay, I am on the same page with you now. Makes sense.

The only thing I want to add to your post is that when load it must be methodical. Have a method of one thing at a time from beginning to the end of development. There have been lots of discussions on what method is the best. I will not claim to know the best way.

My way is to find a seating depth as long as is functional for the given rifle. Whether that is just off the lands or mag depth. In most cases it is mag depth so that the rifle will function as a repeater. Then I start working up the load watching velocity most but looking for pressure signs on brass. Also documenting velocity gains per grain of powder. If it does not look predictable I will stop there and change powder. To my way of thinking if velocity gains are unpredictable then it will not give good sd. Once I reach the target velocity I will load several to make sure that the velocity is consistent and take that data for an average velocity for later use. If at this point things look good I remove the Magnetospeed and shoot that load to zero and see how it groups. If the group is not acceptable I will then adjust seating depth shorter in .02" steps until the group gets better. Shooting a 2 or 3 shot group. If it does not group 2 there is no point in shooting another. If I can not get better groups with this then I may start over with different powder. This rarely happens. If I have to adjust seating depth to get the group to an acceptable level, I will then re check the velocity to make sure what it changed to and document that new velocity. Zero the rifle and shoot it for drops to the expected range of the rifle.

This method will (with most rifles) give the best potential that the rifle has with that bullet.

I will add that I avoid 100 yard work ups. Very little good data other than velocity can be gathered. I prefer 300 yard work ups.

I am very much a KISS guy. (keep it simple stupid)

Hope I did not take your thread in a different direction than you intended.

Steve
 
I think SAMME stands for "you are one of the few who actually READS an entire post
before responding"
 
SAAMI stands for Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute.
What does SAMME stand for?

You would make your English teacher proud Ha Ha.

I must have had an "E" stuck on the brain. it is most certainly SAMMI, I just typed it wrong. My
English teacher had her hands full with me because at that age the hormones had taken over and girls were the priority.

My typing is even worse than my spelling!!!!

Thanks

J E CUSTOM
 
If in doubt at all, have that chamber cast... a proper gunsmith can let you know what you're dealing with.
A bit of cash spent on knowing is fare better than a catastrophic failure or death... or at the very least, money wasted on mis-loaded ammo.

Even folks that load thousands of rounds a year ( I used to be part of this crowd... now hundreds a year) run into enough issues as you guys already mentioned...

Take your time... read twice... and measure at least as many... and IF you run a dump rather than individual charges, measure every 5th charge or so... lack of powder in the stack means different pressure on the dump... and depending on how that powder settles.... possibly a massive change in charge.
KISS is best.gun)
 
This should be put in every box of reloading dies. That and "Do not use any loads given off the internet. They only work for the rifle in question. In yours it may be a bomb."
 
"IF" I remember right the chamber cast with Cerro-safe is accurate one hour after removal as it cools, but after 200 (?) hours it will have expanded to a size larger than the chamber.
 
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That makes too much sense.
Yall know most chuckleheads go for rocks n dynamite... like an extra 50fps makes a spits difference.
I don't care if its 40fps or 4000..... hitting is what counts.
I usually strive for a node just a breath above mid charge...yes, I do dabble with some weapons..... just not the ones for the field.gun)

A good fill of the case, proper length and proper ignition goes a LONG way into a safe load in all climates.
 
Great post Jerry!
I used to load for a couple of people, but after much thought I quit.
Not because I don't trust my reloading to be safe, I'm more conservative than most when it comes to loading. I tend to stay in the middle of road so to speak, rather than load hot.

The reason I stopped loading for other people, is because I had a piece of Winchester brass get into my Remington 22-250 lot of brass, and I didn't catch it until I fired it, and it recoiled like a .243. I had to hammer the bolt open and the primer was gone. I was simply dumbfounded because I didn't have any Winchester brass that I knew of in 22-250. I must have picked it up at the range and didn't know it.

So I made a decision to not load for people anymore. I just erased all liability by doing so. If someone wants to come over and do a proper work up, and load their own, I am more than happy to help them. But I'm not loading them...


It caused me to slow down and not take anything for granted... It was one of those times, that I was lucky....
 
Thanks for the post, Jerry. It's a reminder for me that some of the questions we see on the forum originate with shooters who, at least to some extent, use the language of reloading but may not fully understand how the specifics you listed affect one-another. I know of some new reloaders who buy a reloading manual, turn to the page that applies to their caliber and jump right in; they never read the important parts of the manual.
Perhaps your advice will reduce that dangerous practice.
I would like to ad one point about reloading and long range shooting.
Just because a bullet will travel accurately for a certain distance doesn't mean that it's the best choice. A new shooter might like the 6.5 Creedmore (who doesn't) but it's not a 1K big game hunting round. We too often neglect to make the distinction between target shooting, varmint hunting, and long range big game hunting when discussing reloading for long range shooting.
 
I could never thank you enough Jerry for spending the time to share all your factual experience with us. What a wonderful post. I knew there was a reason I have you building me a gun once a year...LOL
 
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