Kahntrol Clamp on Muzzle Brake Review

Dean2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
907
Location
Alberta
I saw the other two threads about the Witt Machine brake so thought there might be some interest in an alternate version.

After looking at a number of Clamp on brakes I decided to order the Kahntrol brake. Even with exchange and postage it was cheaper than buying the Canadian equivalent. It was however quite a bit more money than the Witt Machine brake.

Kahntrol KSMB645 for muzzle diameter of .640-.675 $149.95 U.S.
Witt Machine Exact fit to the barrel measurement $89.00 U.S.
Grizzly Exact fit to barrel measurement $235.00 Canadian

One of the big reasons I chose the Kahntrol was it was the only one that was able to fit on a fairly wide range of barrel sizes, in this case from .640 - .675. It means I can use it on more than one gun. All of the other brakes were cut for the exact muzzle diameter of the specific gun barrel, accurate to .003. This makes fitting them to any other guns unlikely.

mb-kahntrol1.jpg


Kahntrol accommodates the wider range of barrel sizes by having 6 vertical tightening screws along a horizontal split. Very similar to a set of scope rings but over a much longer opening.

The brake was very easy to mount on my Left Hand 26” all Stainless Remington 700 in 7 RUM. I followed the on-line instructions and had the brake mounted, leveled and timed in about 20 minutes. I could have done it faster but I was quadruple checking everything and being very careful to ensure everything lined up perfectly so there would be no chance of baffle strikes when fired. The one thing I did different than the instructions was torque it down to 50 inch pounds rather than the 30 recommended.

This 7 RUM is my all time least favorite rifle to shoot out of the box. It didn't really recoil in the traditional sense, it was more appropriately described as a REALLY SHARP punch that even with lots of padding would give you a headache after 10 or 15 rounds. Not really surprising when you figure you are burning 95 grains of powder behind a 162 grain bullet in a gun the weighs 8.5 lbs with scope. It was far more unpleasant to shoot than my 375 or even my 460. (To be fair both of those are quite are bit heavier and the 460 has a brake on it). In fact I have never shot any other gun that was as nasty to shoot or kicked as sharply as this 7 RUM out of the box.

After installing a Mercury suppressor in the stock and a Pachmeyer decelerator pad it was comfortable to shoot but still had a very brisk recoil and quite a bit of muzzle jump. I figured this made it the perfect candidate to try the Kahntrol Brake on.

In addition to the brake, I had also mounted a new Leupold 4.5x14 B&C reticle scope for an upcoming antelope trip so the gun needed to be sighted in as well. With everything mounted and two loads that I know shot well in the RUM, 162 BTSP with 84 grains of 7828 SSC in Rem brass with Winchester mag primers at 3.60 LOA, and the same with 94.5 Grains of Retumbo, I headed to the range. (Both of these loads are pushing the 162 grain Hornady bullet north of 3300 fps) It took two shots to get the gun hitting 3” high, dead on the line at 100 yards.

With the bake on there was no difference in group size or shape at 100 or 300 yards. Both loads shot just as good as before, making 3 shot clover leafs at 100 and under 1” at 300. There was however a VERY noticeable reduction in recoil and muzzle jump. The gun felt like something between a 223 and a 243. I checked the brake after the first shot and every two or three thereafter and there was no indication of baffle strikes, as it should be. There was however carbon buildup on the barrel and brake as the number of shots increased. I checked the bolts after 20 rounds and found no decrease in torque.

I was wearing muffs and plugs, as I always do at the range and I did not notice any increase in perceived noise from the brake. I was alone so I did not have anyone to validate whether it was louder to the sides but I would be willing to bet that like all brakes it is. Also, with the amount of recoil reduction it must be pushing a pile of gas to the sides so anyone shooting beside you will definitely feel the blast, though from previous experience this gun makes a hell of a muzzle blast off to the sides even without a brake.

After 30 rounds of very slow fire I felt no soreness in my shoulder nor any other ill effects of shooting, and all I was wearing was a T shirt. I then removed the brake and fired a two shoot group. It hit exactly 1.5” left but on precisely the same elevation, exactly 3” high, as when the brake was on. I adjusted the scope and fired a three shoot clover leaf group that is exactly 3” high, dead on the line at 100 yards. There was a very noticeable increase in recoil without the brake and no perceivable reduction or difference in muzzle blast or noise.

The brake is very well made and fits to the gun well. I would never use a brake on a hunting rifle but this is a great tool for working up loads on guns that tend to beat you up. I could see absolutely no differences in the groups but this is only one gun. I will be interested to try it on a couple of other rifles to see if the results are the same. If they are I will probably order a couple more to cover other barrel sizes.

It is completely effective in reducing recoil and making heavy or medium hitting guns into pleasant to shoot rifles. For range shooting it is the cats pajamas and because it is so easy to mount and remove it is perfect for use on guns that are primarily hunting rifles as well. The POI shift is easy to adjust for when you remove the brake.

I hope the info is useful to others thinking about putting brakes on their rifles.
 

Overkill338

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
1,699
Location
Virginia
I bought one very much like that off ebay, but it was 4 screws and two ports. Never got to review it, it flew off once and I found it again. Tightened it even more and lost it for good. I wish someone had told me to put blue Loctite on it like they did the Witt.

Here is the one I lost
20201130_125855_copy_1209x1209.jpg

Here is my rifle with the Witt.
20201222_125751_copy_1012x405.jpg

Your topic may be a great place for people to see pictures of all the clamp-on brakes.
 

Dean2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
907
Location
Alberta
I bought one very much like that off ebay, but it was 4 screws and two ports. Never got to review it, it flew off once and I found it again. Tightened it even more and lost it for good. I wish someone had told me to put blue Loctite on it like they did the Witt.

Here is the one I lost
View attachment 235363

Here is my rifle with the Witt.
View attachment 235364

Your topic may be a great place for people to see pictures of all the clamp-on brakes.
Clamp on brakes flying off is not usually the result of them coming loose, it is usually from a bullet hitting the brake, which means it isn't on square or was not built square. I like some extra clearance, it may reduce the total brake effect but it also ensures no bullet strikes. Did you notice a bullet strike the first time it came off.
 

Overkill338

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
1,699
Location
Virginia
Clamp on brakes flying off is not usually the result of them coming loose, it is usually from a bullet hitting the brake, which means it isn't on square or was not built square. I like some extra clearance, it may reduce the total brake effect but it also ensures no bullet strikes. Did you notice a bullet strike the first time it came off.
No, it didn't have a mark on it. I actually bought it for a .338, since I was buying a clamp-on brake from Ebay. The second time someone said try a round of electrical tape between the brake and barrel. All it left was a little glue lol
 

Dean2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
907
Location
Alberta
Dean2, did you put blue loctite under the Kahntrol?
Nope, no thread locker of any kind. Just torqued it a tad tighter than the specs in the intructions. When I removed it, the torque was exactly where I had initially set it and that was after 30 rounds.
 

Dean2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
907
Location
Alberta
Much appreciated, I have one that I'm going to try on a pencil barreled 300wm that bucks like a Missouri mule.
The vicious recoil of that 7 RUM is the only reason I gave it a little more torque. Next rifle I am going to try it at the factory recommended torque setting just to see, thought the extra didn't seem to be any problem. 20 Inch pounds more is not a lot of extra torque. 30 is 2.5 FT/Lbs 50 is 4.2 Ft/Lbs.
 

Overkill338

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
1,699
Location
Virginia
Much appreciated, I have one that I'm going to try on a pencil barreled 300wm that bucks like a Missouri mule.
Ranger Rick said:
and that kind of kick, is why God guided man to create muzzle brakes. PS Do not shoot a LW 300 RUM without a brake, they buck like a genetically altered Missouri mule on steroids :)



Lol I worry about some of you guys. J/k

But someone should do a full study on recoil and its effects on different people. I could shoot a 7 lb .300 Win Mag indefinitely with no trouble at all. I shoot sub 1" groups with a light .375 Ruger, and the I have friends that can't handle a .30-06 without some sort of padded vest.

Seriously, has someone ever studied this? I used to think because I was only 135 lbs, that my body moved more, so it didn't hurt. I got up to 212, and it still didn't bother me.

I only bought a brake for my .300 RUM because everyone here said it would help with my long range aspirations. Truth is, the noise now bothers me 10 times worse than the recoil ever could. I'm probably going to return the brake.
 
Last edited:

Sockeye66

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
300
Location
Washington
Would be a good study, I do believe what you said about the noise Overkill is also true, for some, the noise is more startling than anything. I wanted to use the clamp on just to do some extended range time and remove it for hunting after rechecking zero. I wouldn't say I'm recoil shy but my 300wm bounces on the bench pretty good. At 6'3" and a biscuit shy of 260, I probably am absorbing a little too much of the recoil. Set up a survey here and call it "to brake or not to brake, that is the question".
 

Tiny Tim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
915
I bought one very much like that off ebay, but it was 4 screws and two ports. Never got to review it, it flew off once and I found it again. Tightened it even more and lost it for good. I wish someone had told me to put blue Loctite on it like they did the Witt.

Here is the one I lost
View attachment 235363

Here is my rifle with the Witt.
View attachment 235364

Your topic may be a great place for people to see pictures of all the clamp-on brakes.
Overkill338, was the brake you received from Ebay properly fit? I can't tell from the pic, but it almost looks as though the clamp surfaces were touching. Gotta believe that would have been interesting to see in slow motion.
 

Overkill338

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
1,699
Location
Virginia
Overkill338, was the brake you received from Ebay properly fit? I can't tell from the pic, but it almost looks as though the clamp surfaces were touching. Gotta believe that would have been interesting to see in slow motion.
I measured the barrel, and went by the measurements they had advertised in mm. I sure wish I had taken a video the 2nd time ! I'm sure I'll find it again sometime soon lol
 

Overkill338

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2008
Messages
1,699
Location
Virginia
Overkill338, was the brake you received from Ebay properly fit? I can't tell from the pic, but it almost looks as though the clamp surfaces were touching. Gotta believe that would have been interesting to see in slow motion.
I'm not saying you're wrong either.
 

Recent Posts

Top