Just started reloading, what die set

[valleysnyper]

Not only expensive, confusing
Wish I new somebody close I could learn from

 

[Buzzsaw]

that's a great idea, I mostly stay on the texashuntingforum, checkout accurate shooter.com and 6.5 creedmoorforum.com

lots of great info

 

[valleysnyper]

Thanks again

 

[LoneTraveler]

Sort the dies out by cartridge they are made to be used in loading.
Are the 3 die sets. 1. Full Length Sizing Die, 2. Neck Sizing Die, 3. Seating die.
With all the dies you say you got, The dies you may need you already have. Check through the dies you have. Pick the shell you want to load and look through the dies for a Neck or Full Length sizing die and the Seating die.
If you can get an Experienced Loading Person to look a what you have you may already have all you need to get started. The set you said has 5 or so dies. Is it 2 sets or a Case Forming set of Dies??? Good Luck, Stay Safe, Happing Loading.

 

[Cobramach1]

Valleysnyper, everyone is giving you great advice as to the dies. you only need a 2 die set (full length sizing die/bullet seating die). Additional dies aren't going to give you more accuracy, they're just a different way of doing things. No need to purchase a stuck case remover now either. I didn't get a stuck case till 18 years into reloading so not a necessity at this point for you. A stuck case is often, but not always, because you weren't paying attention to the details. It would be best to find someone local to you to show you the ins/outs of the process, however, if you follow the instructions in a reloading manual and be vigilant in the process you will be successful at this. If you can't find anyone and you get stuck, ask your question here and plenty of folks will be glad to help. You're already starting out with much better equipment than I had when I started out. I started out with the basic Lee reloading set that came with a set of dies for my first caliber I reloaded (303 British). I used that Lee set for about 8-9 years on many different calibers before eventually upgrading to digital scales/powder throwers and a multi station press. You don't have to spend a lot of money to get good ammunition. My 303 British (Lee dies) and 22-250 (RCBS dies) were the first two rounds I loaded for and with that Lee setup my 22-250 shot 1/4" all day at 100yds. Heck, even the 303B with open sights was a MOA gun with handloads! I still have the same dies to this day and still shoot both of those rifles.

Happy reloading

 

[rcoody]

One of my personal worth while investments when I first started loading, and I agree with the others and think you should stick to the two die sets for now, is a stuck case remover kit.
In time you will see that I am right..

Funny. I have been reloading over 40 yrs and never stuck a case.

 

[gohring3006]

Funny. I have been reloading over 40 yrs and never stuck a case.

Makes little difference to me if the OP buys the kit or not.. Some have never stuck a case, some have never blown a primer.... Then there are some that have.. I offered a opinion for a 10$ kit that will save some head aches in the future.
There is nothing worse than getting set up to reload some cartridges for the evening and two or three cases in, get a stuck case.... Reloading is usually over until you get the case out, and if you don't have the kit, it usually means you will trash your decapping/expander pin..

 

[Waynzee]

You stated that you got a RCBS press, did you get a powder scale, powder measure, case lube and other components? And yep, I would start off with RCBS 2 die set it will do you fine for a good many years.

 

[WildRose]

Thanks for the reply, so I should just get the 2 die set ? Will I need the other one down the road ? If so maybe its worth buying at once

Just starting out it's best to stick with basics and equipment that isn't the least bit fussy or finicky.

The "Lee Pacesetter" dies are the simplest and most bombproof out there, next to them would be hornady.

Personally while I have some RCBS dies I absolutely hate their decapper/depriming rods. I hate to think how many of them I have bent and broken over the years. You won't run into that with the Lee.

The Lees are also dirt cheap.

One thing you can do to save aggravation is to get a universal decapping die to go along with the set. Using one you can punch out your used primers before cleaning and not have to worry about running dirty brass through your resizing/decapping die.

That way you tumbe/clean your brass once and don't have to worry about going back to clean out and uniform primer pockets or running them through the tumbler again after punching out the primer.

I upgraded recently to the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler with the steel pins and the universal decapping die and it was worth every penny.

 

[Buzzsaw]

just thought about something as you get started. remember this saying as it will follow you till you die.

"JUST CRY ONCE"

this means don't go cheap. before you buy, read reviews on your products. You did great with your RCBS Rockchucker .

I went cheap when setting up to reload my .45ACP. I bought the Lee Dies, while quite effective, they just don't have the "feel" as my Redding and RCBS dies do. Ended up buying Redding, so it actually cost me more money in the long run.

Same goes for everything. You will need a case trimmer soon, there are all kinds of gimmicks out there to make this PITA chore easier. Get a good trimmer, re; Forrester, redding, etc. When you get old and start developing arthritis, get a Guirard Trimmer. Best reloading tool I ever bought. Very pricey, worth every penny, so start saving now.

tons of knowledge on these forums, the key to reviews here, is everyone will push what they own, just understand this, so do as much homework as you can,,,,


be sure to keep us all updated on this fun journey.


Also remember there are NO DUMB QUESTIONS, except "How do I clean my gun" Trust me, don't ever go there on any forum.

 

[valleysnyper]

Guys, Thanks for all the imput. I am going to order the 2 die set and a universal de capping die. Can someone recomend a good tumbler and what type of media to start out with ?

 

[Dosh]

As WildRose did, I upgraded to the Frankfort Arsenal stainless steel pin wet tumbler. All my brass looks like unused new, including the inside of the case and primer pockets. Lyman makes one which looks identical for about the same price. Both come with 5# of pins, whereas some do not, that's an extra bonus. The dry media tumblers which are less costly, are great and the shiny polished brass is spectacular, but the primer pockets and case interior aren't touched.

 

[WildRose]

As WildRose did, I upgraded to the Frankfort Arsenal stainless steel pin wet tumbler. All my brass looks like unused new, including the inside of the case and primer pockets. Lyman makes one which looks identical for about the same price. Both come with 5# of pins, whereas some do not, that's an extra bonus. The dry media tumblers which are less costly, are great and the shiny polished brass is spectacular, but the primer pockets and case interior aren't touched.

Yep and cleaning out primer pockets and flash holes with a q tip and dental pics gets old.

 

[rcoody]

So many ways to clean brass.

Many benchrest shooter wipe the carbon off the case with ballistol and hit the necks with a brush and clean the primer pocket with a tool. Of course those cases are loaded out of a loading block and put back in the block after firing. They never touch the ground. They want the carbon in the neck consistent.

Dry tumbling also leaves the carbon pretty much intact in the neck.

Both ultrasonic and wet tumbling with stainless pins leave the brass clean as new. It is recommended that the necks be lubricated with dry graphite before bullet seating.

My method has changed over the years. Now I dry tumble until annealing time. Then I use my ultrasonic after annealing and use the dry lubricant prior to bullet seating.

With my portable setup I use the ballistol method.

They all work. Different strokes for different folks