JB and Kroil...

Not sure if everyone is on the same page. JB bore bright red jar is very abrasive. JB bore compound blue jar is not, and is the common cleaner with kroil.
 
Not sure if everyone is on the same page. JB bore bright red jar is very abrasive. JB bore compound blue jar is not, and is the common cleaner with kroil.
Are you sure? Brownells says to use the JB Bore Bright AFTER JB Bore Compound. Doesn't make a lot of sense to use the more abrasive paste to finish? I've only used the blue jar Bore compound. The gray paste.
 
Mikecr
you said never to use JB bore polish. Could you tell me why. Thanks
There is one thing for sure that you should never do to a bore: polish it.
The best lapping provided by the best barrel makers is not a polishing. but a pre-polish lap to a lowest copper grabbing surface profile. It is between too rough and too smooth.

I saw a friend ruin a great shooting barrel with mistaken use of JB Bore Bright.
And I personally ruined a bore with use of Flitz (one use, got carried away with cleaning). When I say ruined I mean copper fouling that goes through the roof. Longer streaks wiped from bullet jackets and opening grouping real quick.
That flitz abused barrel was shooting & cleaning just fine until the event, and I learned that there was no recovering from that error(not with JB or even Tubb's).
 
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Are you sure? Brownells says to use the JB Bore Bright AFTER JB Bore Compound. Doesn't make a lot of sense to use the more abrasive paste to finish? I've only used the blue jar Bore compound. The gray paste.

I am sure. They probably want you to clean it before you polish it? Its red because of iron oxide, like jewelers rouge. These two compounds get confused all of the time!!!
 
There is one thing for sure that you should never do to a bore: polish it.
The best lapping provided by the best barrel makers is not a polishing. but a pre-polish lap to a lowest copper grabbing surface profile. It is between too rough and too smooth.

I saw a friend ruin a great shooting barrel with mistaken use of JB Bore Bright.
And I personally ruined a bore with use of Flitz (one use, got carried away with cleaning). When I say ruined I mean copper fouling that goes through the roof. Longer streaks wiped from bullet jackets and opening grouping real quick.
That flitz abused barrel was shooting & cleaning just fine until the event, and I learned that there was no recovering from that error(not with JB or even Tubb's).

Thanks for the info. I didn't know this and I have some of this bore polish and I know it was only a matter of time till I would do this . TKS
CC
 
There is one thing for sure that you should never do to a bore: polish it.
The best lapping provided by the best barrel makers is not a polishing. but a pre-polish lap to a lowest copper grabbing surface profile. It is between too rough and too smooth.

I saw a friend ruin a great shooting barrel with mistaken use of JB Bore Bright.
And I personally ruined a bore with use of Flitz (one use, got carried away with cleaning). When I say ruined I mean copper fouling that goes through the roof. Longer streaks wiped from bullet jackets and opening grouping real quick.
That flitz abused barrel was shooting & cleaning just fine until the event, and I learned that there was no recovering from that error(not with JB or even Tubb's).
Mike, you must have been sick when you ruined your own barrel. That thought gives me shivers just thinking about it. I too, know of someone, who ruined a Hart bsrrel with flitz, and the JB, red is just about the same. I totally understand the difference between polished, and over polished, and in this case, too much of a good thing, is a bad thing. It's easy to do, because, the products to do it with are readily avail. ( maybe they are secretly owned by barrel makers). Hehe.
Thanks for the input, and experience.
 
Mike, I certainly see no humor, am sorry, but did learn something, on your nickel though. I've tried to pass on to someone close to me, about the use of the red stuff. I'll show him this thread.
On another note, I'm breaking in a factory barrel, and so far in the shoot and clean part, I've been using kroil, only, and am amazed at How well it cleans. I have some of the grey, JB, and may use it later, but after reading this, may be not. I know some guys that won't even allow it in the same room as their rifles are at.
I'm a little Leary now.
I once had a 22.250, that was shooting only moly bullets into, almost exclusively in. I cleaned it thoroughly with Jb, and oil. When I got done, barrel was clean, but I thought i had ruined it. It wouldn't group any more, shot gun sprays , then, just about when I was about to give up, it started coming around again. I've been very cautious with it since. Good luck to all.
 
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morning, computer been down. I was at the range 1day. watched an older
gent shooting a custom .308 shoot 200yds with sierra match full BT's.
Every 10 shots put a cotton ball the barrel, had an aluminum pie
pan put on the ground, removed bolt and shot quick silver Mercury
outboard carb. cleaner in the receiver and barrel till he filled the barrel.
let the barrel and action set for 5mins. pulled the cotton ball out of the
barrel end. run the cleaning rod thru the barrel and action 2 times.
the bullet filings and powder residue were mostly in the pie pan.
I have used this procedure many years. very good
method of cleaning barrel. GBOT TUM do not use metal brush!!
 
Moly use has to be managed. The bore has to be maintained at a best level of moly fouling. Too little is of course recoverable. Too much and recovery is detrimental to the bore itself. Game over..
JB cleaning compound is perfect for knocking out the tight spots(moly buildup) before they go too far. You just have to stay on top of that, so that you can keep moly within a best window, and not cause a major setback.

I'm surprised anyone still uses moly, given availability of WS2 and HBN. These do not have to be 'managed'. They also extend needed cleaning intervals, like moly. The difference is that they do not cool the throat a bit like moly, and so they do not affect MV over that of bare bullets(I like this about them). And they clean right out with normal cleanings, like normal fouling. WS2 also happens to be a perfect pre-fouler.

Carb cleaner works only on carbon, and not copper.
 
Mike, I actually do not use moly, coated anymore, that fad came , and is gone, at least for me. It was a pain, it effected loads, velocities, and finding the cleaning balance.
My comment was about my 22.250, which I had about 15 years ago. That barrel did come back around, but it took awhile. And I agree, as well, ythe carb cleaner, is awesome for carbon busting.
 
morning, Mike RC, I did not say carb cleaner removes copper. the cleaner
does loosen the copper filings that can b removed with a cleaning rod.
I do not argue with acknowledgeable shooters, I LISTEN to learn tricks
of the trade. then use the info I was told to see if the info works!!
if the info works I am made more knowledgeable and can pass
the knowledge on!! GBOT TUM
Life Member NRA, TSRA, OKLA-NRA
 

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