JB and Kroil...

I use JB with kroil for factory barrels and that is only to basically lap the barrel and get the barrel smooth. For a custom barrel I have never seen any reason to do so. Custom barrels are so smooth there is no reason to do anything to it. I think you will do more harm than good to use JB on a good custom barrel.
 
Rymart said:
:eek:
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dok7mm said:
There's lots of different views when it comes to using an abrasive paste in a barrel. I'm not gonna take a side, pro or con.

I will state that I don't clean copper out of my barrels with JB, I have found BoreTech products do that quickly and completely.

I do use JB, but only on stubborn carbon rings in chamber neck and throat, plus any fire cracking in the first few inches of lands.

Anyone using it to clean copper,regularly, from the total length of the bore will sooner, or later, change the dimensions or concentricity. JMO Stroking it for 30 minutes? Well, it's your barrel and you can clean it any way you want.
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LOL. I have to say, I've been guilty of it too....but some guys take things so literally. NO, I don't scrub my barrel with JB for 30 minutes straight. I meant that my entire cleaning regimen which includes scrubbing with JB only takes 30 minutes. I have seriously spent hours with other solvents between the soaking and scrubbing and redoing it all trying to get all copper and powder fouling out so 30 minutes is lightning fast to me.
 
Frank in the Laurels said:
Make sure you don't get kroil in your trigger,it will gum it up faster than you think..run lighter fluid down in it to cut it.
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Yep! Kroil is awesome for automotive uses, soaking and penetrating oil for breaking rusty bolts loose, and even for barrel break-in, or coating the bore using it on a wet patch if you plan on letting your rifles sit up for a while to prevent rust. But I will agree, do not use it as a lubricant for your guns, and definitely don't get it in your trigger, use lighter fluid, just like you said.

As for a good all-around cleaner and lube, RemOil has worked great for me for over 16 years. To remove copper & powder, I use Pro-Shot Copper Solvent IV.
 
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I use Breakfree CLP to finish, lube...whatever. If it's good enough for the military, it's good enough for me. Thanks for the responses guys. I'm going to continue using JB/Kroil on my barrels regularly and enjoy not seeing hours of blue patches...lol.
 
My findings on wipe out, don't put petroleum products in the bore before the wipe out. I was using brake cleaner alcohol years before the brought out the accelerator.

Wipe out does not work nearly as fast as butches or Barnes copper solvent. It is not as mean on surfaces as them either. My main reason for getting away from the harsher cleaners.

Kroil and JB's is what I used for years. I can't say it will remove copper effectively.

To eachs own.
 
JSHKS said:
My findings on wipe out, don't put petroleum products in the bore before the wipe out. I was using brake cleaner alcohol years before the brought out the accelerator.

Wipe out does not work nearly as fast as butches or Barnes copper solvent. It is not as mean on surfaces as them either. My main reason for getting away from the harsher cleaners.

Kroil and JB's is what I used for years. I can't say it will remove copper effectively.

To eachs own.
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That's really bizarre. JB/Kroil is the only thing that I have found that DOES remove copper effectively! Effectively being the key word, because a lot of ammonia based solvents remove copper....slowly from my experience.
 
I use Butches Bore Shine for powder residue and then move to Wipeout for copper and have great luck. The key to making the Wipeout work is giving it plenty of time to work. (Several hours) unlike the harsher ammonia cleaners, it will not harm your bore if left on for extended periods. Just remember, it does not, and will not work as fast as some of the stronger ammonia based cleaners, but on the same note, it isn't designed to....
 
Buddy of mine used some kind of ungodly strong ammonia in his barrels. Two swipes and it was clean as a whistle. Omg the smell would take your breath away.

Dunno maybe I have never fowled a bore as bad as I thought?
I shoot a fair bit of cast bullets in a bunch of calibers. When I start on a new project gun I may or may not lead it up, depends. I leader up a bore on an 03 Remington years back. I put a rubber plug in the muzzle and filled it full of Kroil. It sat for several days. I dumped it and ran a patch through and you would have thought you were pushing it through a screen door. It got under the lead and other fouling and it all peeled out. Bore was better than I ever thought.

When I was shooting more years back I had a couple of guns that copper fouled badly. All the Kroil and JB ever did that I saw was polish over it.
A particular 7mm barrel was really rough, but shot well. I quite using wipeout until groups opens. After using WO it would take close to 20 rounds to get the group to close up.
Barrels are like women,no two alike.
Jeff
 
I'm compelled to mention that I hated wipe-out also. The **** shiit expands into everywhere, and my bore scope showed it wasn't worth it.
On the other hand, the bore scope shows that a good soaking of Sweets helps a stiff nylon brush take copper right out.
Peroxide removes Sweets, and alcohol removes peroxide.

Also, ammonia damage to stainless barrels is a myth.
Cheap water diluted ammonia contributes, while in contact, with carbon steel barrels. It's the water.
Normally people either oil, or dry prefoul a bore, before putting a gun away. There would be no logical reason to leave Sweets in the bore put away.
 

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