Hornady Versus Redding dies

I've just been using regular full length dies and I'm looking to upgrade as well. I'm looking at the Redding type S bushing dies and using an expander for necks. I see some like bushing dies and some don't. Just curious on the pros and cons of this method. I would probably choose the FL bushing die as most of my shooting is for hunting purposes. Thanks.
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
I usually don't have problems with any dies except some of the more recent Lee products which I will no longer use. I'd say no on bushing dies though. Have had friends say they are a nightmare and to me I don't think Id gain much to justify the extra pieces and time. My order of favorite dies (as far as commercially available ones) is below top to bottom:

Redding
RCBS
Hornady
Lee
 
If you don't want to go bushing then do Forster. They don't overwork necks like the Hornadys and they have a better expamder setup that reduces runout.

Hornady seater dies with the comp seater and correct seater plug are actually pretty good.
 
I view sizing dies as a spectrum. FL SAAMI-min spec on one end, custom reamed/honed dies on the other, with collet dies, bushings dies, and separate neck/body dies in the middle. Bushing dies give you control over neck dimensions in a way that that standard FL dies don't.

Bushing dies are a good starting point for working on your neck sizes because the interchangeable bushing will let you work with several different dimensions and you can shoot to see the effects of neck sizing. If you've always FL sized in a tight die like a Hornady, I think it's good for your skill progression to move through a bushing die to see what changes when you shoot at different sizings.

If you have a set of cases matched to a chamber, custom dies give you the best sizing fit for those cases in that chamber, but if you do something like change brass brands that have thicker necks, the die might not be right anymore.

It isn't expensive to get a die honed ($24 from Forster), you're just stuck with those dimensions, so you'd better be sure it's what you want. If you don't know what you want, play with bushing dies first to help figure it out.
 
I'm looking to upgrade some of my dies from Hornady to Redding full length dies. Don't really want to go to bushing dies. Are Redding dies worth the extra cost 3x compared to Hornady?
Depending on how much reloading you do it becomes a matter of cost to only reloading a limited number of loads, I've been reloading for 45 years and I find in most cases you get what you pay for. Use caution when make this decision, I use high custom high velocity modifications, 223 necked down to .17 for shooting varmints bothering cattle, this round travels at 6300ft per second, this is a custom build rifle heavy barrel. The moral of the story is with most rounds the slower it's moving the more damage it does. I'm reaching out 1000 to 1200 yards. Pick your poison
 
I have most brands and for different reasons as already said if you're shooting a custom gun and trying to get the best out of it then keep spending money but if you want to kill a deer at 200 yards you can save the money for some good bourbon for back at the camp
 

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Dies.
IMO, you get what you pay for, but that doesn't mean much when it comes to game DRT or holes in paper.

I have Lee, Lyman, Pacific, Herters, Hornady, RCBS, RCBS Gold Medal, Redding, Redding Deluxe, Forster, CH4, Wilson, and recently, Whidden. Haven't used the Whidden yet, but man they look sweet!

I know guys who use Lee dies, and they outshoot me all day.

Hornady dies, with their sliding seater stem, offer an advantage over dies like standard RCBS, Lee or Lyman.
Bushing dies are necessary when you're wanting to produce the exact same neck tension. If you're looking for single digit ES and are competing BR or long range shooting competitions, bushing dies will help you for consistency.

Every die brand has pros and cons. There are a couple things about Hornady dies that I *hate*, but when you consider that every Hornady die set only cost me ~$10 when you factor the bullets I received in their "Get Loaded" promotion, I got more than what I paid for.
If I had a preference for dies, every seater would be like my RCBS Gold Medal competition seater. LOVE loading 308 with that!
Also, Micrometer adjustments dials are a convenience well worth it on seaters. Yes, you can achieve the same accuracy with standard seater screw/locking nut, but it's a total PITA to change your seating by 1-5 mil with the standard type.

While waiting on a set of CH4 dies for a wildcat, I found a pair of Redding dies on the shelf. Started using the Reddings. When the CH4 finally came in, they produced ammo with less TIR than the Redding, so sold the green box for what I paid, and kept the CH4.
 
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Depending on how much reloading you do it becomes a matter of cost to only reloading a limited number of loads, I've been reloading for 45 years and I find in most cases you get what you pay for. Use caution when make this decision, I use high custom high velocity modifications, 223 necked down to .17 for shooting varmints bothering cattle, this round travels at 6300ft per second, this is a custom build rifle heavy barrel. The moral of the story is with most rounds the slower it's moving the more damage it does. I'm reaching out 1000 to 1200 yards. Pick your poison
Whew now I'm liking the 6300 FPS idea!!!!! I figure you get what you pay for as well. I'd like to wring our every fraction of an inch on paper I can with fl dies. I've just been debating my 22 creedmoor cut and fitted by Total Precision Rifleworks is the most accurate rifle I own. Am I doing it any favors running Peterson brass through hornady dies? If Hornady QC on dies is anything like the Hornady shortmag brass I have well it sucks!! Seems like someone in QC would have checked for at least a single square case mouth. Thanks for the input crew! I'll be upgrading the dies tomorrow.
 
All of the die manufacturers mentioned above are serviceable to most folks, especially when our rifles are not capable of 1/4 MOA groups. However there is a benefit to using the higher priced die sets as all of them seem to have a much smoother finish and yes, require much less effort on the resizing step which in turn requires less trimming and possibly longer case life.
 
Dies.
IMO, you get what you pay for, but that doesn't mean much when it comes to game DRT or holes in paper.

I have Lee, Lyman, Pacific, Herters, Hornady, RCBS, RCBS Gold Medal, Redding, Redding Deluxe, Forster, CH4, Wilson, and recently, Whidden. Haven't used the Whidden yet, but man they look sweet!

I know guys who use Lee dies, and they outshoot me all day.

Hornady dies, with their sliding seater stem, offer an advantage over dies like standard RCBS, Lee or Lyman.
Bushing dies are necessary when you're wanting to produce the exact same neck tension. If you're looking for single digit ES and are competing BR or long range shooting competitions, bushing dies will help you for consistency.

Every die brand has pros and cons. There are a couple things about Hornady dies that I *hate*, but when you consider that every Hornady die set only cost me ~$10 when you factor the bullets I received in their "Get Loaded" promotion, I got more than what I paid for.
If I had a preference for dies, every seater would be like my RCBS Gold Medal competition seater. LOVE loading 308 with that!
Also, Micrometer adjustments dials are a convenience well worth it on seaters. Yes, you can achieve the same accuracy with standard seater screw/locking nut, but it's a total PITA to change your seating by 1-5 mil with the standard type.

While waiting on a set of CH4 dies for a wildcat, I found a pair of Redding dies on the shelf. Started using the Reddings. When the CH4 finally came in, they produced ammo with less TIR than the Redding, so sold the green box for what I paid, and kept the CH4.
Yes I'm looking forward to a mic bullet seater as well, the standard seater and locknut just seem sloppy to me.
 
I have RCBS, Forster and Whidden and like them all. The nice thing about Forster and Whidden is they have a sleeve on the seater that encompass not just the bullet but the neck of the brass to ensure seating the bullet is in exact alignment with the neck. I have a Whidden FL sizer and decide to switch to bushing. Whidden drilled it to a bushing die. No charge. The difference in price for a custom seater is not that much of an up charge. Most of my dies are now Whidden. Compare the price of the best Redding and Whidden. You might be surprised.
 
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