Help- I'm new to scope dialing and am a little perplexed at initial results.

Assuming your scope is 1/4 moa clicks, if you dialed 56 clicks that would be equal to 14 moa not the 11.2 moa that you drop chart shows. But I may be reading this all wrong.
As I read the drop charts and the post about 56 clicks I did the same math. 11.2 moa would be 45 ish clicks instead of 56. Could have just accidentally dialed it wrong...you wouldn't be the first :)
 
As I read the drop charts and the post about 56 clicks I did the same math. 11.2 moa would be 45 ish clicks instead of 56. Could have just accidentally dialed it wrong...you wouldn't be the first :)

Sounds like this may have been your issue, or at least part of it.
 
Thanks for the input.
...My Ballistic App showed I would have -58.63 inches or 11.20 MOA of drop at 500. Sorry for the stupid question, but wouldn't this equate to 56 clicks up on my elevation turret(which is what I used)?
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Thanks again everyone.

There's your issue. You needed 44.8 (45) clicks to get 11.2 MOA.

Generally, MOA scopes have 1/4 MOA per click (a rare few have 1/8th MOA clicks, and some red-dot and low magnification scopes have 1/2 MOA clicks). Your turret has numbers on it which correspond to 1 MOA, with 4 dashes between major graduations. 11.2 MOA, at 4 clicks per MOA = 44.8 clicks. 56 clicks = 14 MOA. Since you stated you were 5-6 inches high at 500, then it's likely your drop calculation is a little off, as you should have been ~3 MOA high, which at 500 yds is roughly 15".

I'm assuming the SHV line has a zero resettable turret, so check your operators manual for how to use that if you don't know already. You can zero the gun at whatever yardage, then move the turret shroud back to zero without clicking it. Usually via an allen head set screw. Once your turret is zeroed, you can spin the dial to the number of MOA you need (e.g. 11.2 = spin to 11, then add one click (0.25) for a total of 11.25).

To do a "box test" simply set up a target at relatively close range (100 yds is good). Fire one group on center, then click a large number of MOA left (12 MOA is a good choice, though you could do more or less) and fire a group, then click the
same large number up and group, then click the same large number right and group, and finally the same number back down and group. If everything is working, you should have a "box" with a group at each corner, and two groups (1st and last) on center. Think of it like driving around the block. If you take 3 right turns, you should end up where you started. You can then measure the distance each group moved and confirm your scope is not only repeatable, but accurate. If you chose 12 MOA for your clicks, at 100 yds, you should end up with a box with with equal edges of 12.56" (1 MOA = 1.047" @ 100 yds, so 12 MOA x 1.047" per MOA = 12.56"). There are obviously other variations of the test, but you get the idea.
 
There's your issue. You needed 44.8 (45) clicks to get 11.2 MOA.

Generally, MOA scopes have 1/4 MOA per click (a rare few have 1/8th MOA clicks, and some red-dot and low magnification scopes have 1/2 MOA clicks). Your turret has numbers on it which correspond to 1 MOA, with 4 dashes between major graduations. 11.2 MOA, at 4 clicks per MOA = 44.8 clicks. 56 clicks = 14 MOA. Since you stated you were 5-6 inches high at 500, then it's likely your drop calculation is a little off, as you should have been ~3 MOA high, which at 500 yds is roughly 15".

I'm assuming the SHV line has a zero resettable turret, so check your operators manual for how to use that if you don't know already. You can zero the gun at whatever yardage, then move the turret shroud back to zero without clicking it. Usually via an allen head set screw. Once your turret is zeroed, you can spin the dial to the number of MOA you need (e.g. 11.2 = spin to 11, then add one click (0.25) for a total of 11.25).

To do a "box test" simply set up a target at relatively close range (100 yds is good). Fire one group on center, then click a large number of MOA left (12 MOA is a good choice, though you could do more or less) and fire a group, then click the
same large number up and group, then click the same large number right and group, and finally the same number back down and group. If everything is working, you should have a "box" with a group at each corner, and two groups (1st and last) on center. Think of it like driving around the block. If you take 3 right turns, you should end up where you started. You can then measure the distance each group moved and confirm your scope is not only repeatable, but accurate. If you chose 12 MOA for your clicks, at 100 yds, you should end up with a box with with equal edges of 12.56" (1 MOA = 1.047" @ 100 yds, so 12 MOA x 1.047" per MOA = 12.56"). There are obviously other variations of the test, but you get the idea.

Jeeezz!!! Thanks ent!!!! That's exactly what it is. Garbage in, garbage out as they say. I'm still going to perform the box test for an extra piece of mind.

Thanks again to all that chimed in.
 
Jeeezz!!! Thanks ent!!!! That's exactly what it is. Garbage in, garbage out as they say. I'm still going to perform the box test for an extra piece of mind.

Thanks again to all that chimed in.

Just wanted to make sure I was clear on the box test. You put a single target on the paper, and always aim at that point. Your clicking will result in impacts that ideally land exactly how far you clicked away from the target your aiming at. Make sure you have plenty of room on the target for whatever adjustment size you choose. This is one of the rare instances where you will be HOPING to miss =)... If everything goes perfect, you'll have two groups in the bullseye at one corner of your box, and 3 more groups at the corners of a a perfect square the size of your click choice.

Also, a bit more "rigorous" variation on the test is to shoot a single round between each set of "clicking". Repeat this until you have your 5 groups. In other words, shoot 1 then click over, shoot 1 then click up, shoot 1 then click back over, shoot 1 then click back down. Rinse and repeat until there's three shots in each group. This will triple the number of cycles on your scope, and prove that your scope isn't drifting over lots of adjustments. It will also spread out any bias associated with wind, rifle fouling, barrel heating, etc. The variables will be spread evenly across all 5 groups.
 
I prefer the tall target test:

Definitely a very good test that I've used myself. Not sure who that loser is the video, but he seems to know something about the subject... ;)

The only thing it doesn't accomplish that the "box test" does, is horizontal tracking on the scope. Obviously, this is way less of an issue generally, as you're unlikely to be shooting in a gale force wind requiring precise tracking after 30 MOA of windage clicking.

If one wanted to be REALLY rigorous, you could easily combine the two tests. Set up a target just like in Mr. Litz's video, and shoot a "box", but use 2X-3X windage for your elevation changes. You'd have a rectangle instead of a square. This would illuminate both horizontal and vertical problems in scope tracking, and be the best of both worlds.

I think I'd agree though, if you're trying to save rounds, the tall target test is the fastest way to resolve the most important variable, which is vertical deviation and extreme cant. Just be cautious with inferring scope cant, as relatively small amounts of wind difference between groups could skew the results, unless it's dead calm, or you "round robin" your shots as described above.
 
Gent's

This is my first foray into scope dialing, so please go easy on me. Anyway, I just installed a Nightforce SHV on my Tikka T3X 6.5 Creedmoor. After getting it sighted in, zeroing at 100, verifying accuracy and velocity of my pet load(147 ELD-M), I plugged the data into my Ballistic App. Initially, it appeared to be spot on, as my elevation impact was right on the money at 200,300 and 400 yards. When I dialed for 500 though, the bullets were impacting about 6-7 inches high? Any idea why this happend? I feel like all my inputs are correct, especially since drops at 2,3 and 400 yds were right on the money.

Thanks all. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I do it the other way. I go way out to distance first just before transonic and establish my BC or velocity and then the adjustments going down will all be right for closer shots. 500 yards is not far enough out to establish drops.
 
To eliminate the click counting zero out your turret at 100 yard zero. Then dial up to your moa readout from your drop chart. Much quicker and easier to deal with going up and back down to zero frequently.
 
My creed load @ 2855fps 147eld load using the 4-14 shv for reference was 73/4 moa to 480, 0 cosine I would hit the 2" circle target in kyl with that dope @ 35 degrees F. Your 2600fps is alot slow. Using the same inputs at your velocity I have 8.42 @ 450yds and 10.01 @ 500 yds. That would be about 9 1/4moa in my rig at your velocity. My scope height is 2.1" I'll check the other rifle which has the lowest you can mount that 56mm shv for you as well
 
My creed load @ 2855fps 147eld load using the 4-14 shv for reference was 73/4 moa to 480, 0 cosine I would hit the 2" circle target in kyl with that dope @ 35 degrees F. Your 2600fps is alot slow. Using the same inputs at your velocity I have 8.42 @ 450yds and 10.01 @ 500 yds. That would be about 9 1/4moa in my rig at your velocity. My scope height is 2.1" I'll check the other rifle which has the lowest you can mount that 56mm shv for you as well

2855fps with a 147?? What length barrel and powder are you running?
 
2855fps with a 147?? What length barrel and powder are you running?
Rl26 24" and danzac coated. ES 6 @10 shots. It was a factory savage I step lapped to create some choke. It would shoot factory ammo 50-100fps faster than the box it came from said.
To the OP my #2 contour with the shv is 1.82 and I cannot fit a scope lenses cap on it without removing the bottom of said cap. This is with the sunshade on as well.
 
I noticed the scope height, I would definitely check that....just the scope tube and action halved equals almost an inch.....remeasure....might help with the solution...rsbhunter
 
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