I don't see anything on type of brass, primers, powder grains used. What the spread of velocity between high and low. What type of work up in your cases. Primers pockets, Deburred flash holes. In generally what the set up with the cases before using them. I just went back and re-read your blog. I note that the action isn't bedded or you hadn't stated that. I do note you floated the barrel, which should have help. I would see about getting the action bedded. That rifle should due .5 group @ 100yds. Bottom line I would look at practice of brass prep, bedding the action, and chronograph the rounds, with tracking velocities. That should give you a better idea of what your reloads are doing.
Having hell with my new 300win
- Thread starter SouthLoganCountyShooter
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Chris Montana
Member
Between you, me and the gate post- I wouldn't waste any more time and components on a 2020 model 700. Remington used to have a good parts and repair department, but now they're bust. They used to make a good gun, too. Their ammo comes out with mixed and deformed primers! It's like they sweep the floor for components so they can squeeze out another box to sell the hoarders- who will never shoot them, anyway. A friend bought a Model 700 .300 WSM a few years ago and with match ammo got 2"+ groups. He complained to Remington, and they said that was acceptable accuracy. I'm liking the Savage these days.
Aoudad 101
Well-Known Member
H4831 sc and 180 or 190 gr . I have 5 300s and they all like this load
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
Yes. Screw rotation after contact is less after it reaches full torque. Action doesn't move.
My 300win likes imr4350 with 165&180 Barnes ttsx
Weatherby Fan
Well-Known Member
This is a late model
I always try to use Nosler Accubonds in any new build or factory rifle in handloads or factory ammo, I find them to be one of the most forgiving and accurate bullets, pick ub a box of Nosler Trophy Grade 180gr AB and if it won't shoot those either its probably the barrel,
With that being said this is a late model Rem 700 SPS, the quality control on these rifles is bad at best, my gunsmith is to the point he mostly refuses to work on them, sorry for being blunt but if your looking for an accurate out of the box rifle in that price range a Rem 700 SPS would be my last choice,
Tikka T3x, Bergara B14, Weatherby Vanguard are all better options.
Honestly with all you've done (time & money) I don't think its going to shoot and I would have long ago torn it apart or returned it if its an option !
I always try to use Nosler Accubonds in any new build or factory rifle in handloads or factory ammo, I find them to be one of the most forgiving and accurate bullets, pick ub a box of Nosler Trophy Grade 180gr AB and if it won't shoot those either its probably the barrel,
With that being said this is a late model Rem 700 SPS, the quality control on these rifles is bad at best, my gunsmith is to the point he mostly refuses to work on them, sorry for being blunt but if your looking for an accurate out of the box rifle in that price range a Rem 700 SPS would be my last choice,
Tikka T3x, Bergara B14, Weatherby Vanguard are all better options.
Honestly with all you've done (time & money) I don't think its going to shoot and I would have long ago torn it apart or returned it if its an option !
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If you still have the Rem black plaztic stock. Toss it in the lake. It actually flexes. Get a McMillan in Rem Sport or whatever and bed it 2" past the recoil lug. Then look at all the other load comments.
I'll second the 4350. I had trouble with H1000 switched to H4350 with 180 partitions and 5 shots in the same hole after I found right charge weight! All groups were tighter than the H1000 ever shot
Weatherbyshooter/Hunter
Active Member
All recommendations and questions in the string are great. Certainly not an expert but very successful in obtaining .5 MOA out of my hunting rifles. I start with .010 of jam or like a Weatherby at Mag length. Start at the low end of the charge using two shot groups letting the barrel cool between groups. Once I see a good group as I go up the ladder , I continue until the group starts opening. Using my Chronograph data, I select the best group , return to the range with my bullet seater and push -.003 seating depth until I get a tighter group usually tightens to .50. The case prep is also important, sizing consistency, expanding mandrel , bullet seating die, and do run my neck interior with 0000 wool. I thought of trying a EC Tuner but .5 MOA is fine for my hunting.
Bingo
