Having hell with new 300win update

[SouthLoganCountyShooter]

Ok bullets I've shot 150 speer hot core, 165nos bt, 168nos lrab, 180gk, 180fed, 210vld 230mk, 155nos match.
Powders 7828, re26, h4350, retumbo, ltr, imr4831.
Brass old new stock win from early 90's
Did ladder test for 165-180. Speed seemed slow for 26" barrel 2700-2800.
Everything is 2moa or larger.
Things I did.
Bedded action bedded recoil lug, check scope rail screws tq scope and action screws to spec. Barrel crown looks good

Something I hadn't noticed when I was cleaning previously.
I was going to check the twist rate. So I started to clean it.
There is almost no resistance when running a cleaning patch with 30cal adapter. 30cal brush is same way. Almost no resistance.

I think the bore was cut to large.
Picture of 210vld

 

[SouthLoganCountyShooter]

Pic of load development of my wife's 7rm.

 

[Rick Richard]

Curious, but did you try a different scope? If so, that rifle needs to be rebarreled or kicked down the road. I think you have done WAY more than I would have done. Good luck

 

[SouthLoganCountyShooter]

Curious, but did you try a different scope? If so, that rifle needs to be rebarreled or kicked down the road. I think you have done WAY more than I would have done. Good luck

Forgot to put that in post. Tried Burris veracity and nightforce nx8 scopes

 

[26Reload]

What does the bore show.....is there any riflings inside.....maybe it's not a 300cal...

 

[SouthLoganCountyShooter]

What does the bore show.....is there any riflings inside.....maybe it's not a 300cal...

I don't have a bore scope but there is rifling in it. I'm going to see if my 338 cleaning jag will go through it. .338-300win? Lol way it's looking I got me another build I wasn't looking for. I guess I could drop my Tikka build and rebarrel this one.

 

[26Reload]

Could run some soft lead thru it....measure it to check diameter

 

[hypersonic]

I don't have a bore scope but there is rifling in it. I'm going to see if my 338 cleaning jag will go through it. .338-300win? Lol way it's looking I got me another build I wasn't looking for. I guess I could drop my Tikka build and rebarrel this one.

Or you might have an 8mm-300 Win...... 30's going down an 8mm will stabilize a wee bit 30's going down a .338 would more than likely be flying "*** over tea kettles" So that's my guess 8mm-300 Win

 

[moxford]

What's the history of that rifle? New factory? Used? Unknown garage find?

Slugging the bore:

After you check the barrel bore stuff, shove a small shim piece of cardboard under the barrel between it and the fore end of the stock. You bedded the action and lug, but didn't mention fully inletting the barrel channel all the way forward. Put the shim in and intentionally cause a forced interference and a third point of contact, and see how it reacts. Possible that it was right at the very edge and when fired is bumping the barrel channel, and then you bedded it, and it's still right at the edge but in the same (or different) spot.

Cheers,
-mox

 

[JAYgs8163]

What's the story with the rifle? Is it new, old, custom, brand, etc….. not sure what you mean by "update"! Is there a separate thread/post you're referring to?

 

[436]

Ok bullets I've shot 150 speer hot core, 165nos bt, 168nos lrab, 180gk, 180fed, 210vld 230mk, 155nos match.
Powders 7828, re26, h4350, retumbo, ltr, imr4831.
Brass old new stock win from early 90's
Did ladder test for 165-180. Speed seemed slow for 26" barrel 2700-2800.
Everything is 2moa or larger.
Things I did.
Bedded action bedded recoil lug, check scope rail screws tq scope and action screws to spec. Barrel crown looks good

Something I hadn't noticed when I was cleaning previously.
I was going to check the twist rate. So I started to clean it.
There is almost no resistance when running a cleaning patch with 30cal adapter. 30cal brush is same way. Almost no resistance.

I think the bore was cut to large.
Picture of 210vld

You might think about swaging/slugging the bore to find the true caliber. Just my 0.2 Cheers

 

[just_jon]

Before giving up on the barrel, I suggest you pick up a couple sample pack of hammers. My Rem 700 24" 300 WM shoots the 151 and 178 absolute hammers at 3500 fps and 3250 fps, respectively with Sta-BALL 6.5.

 

[hunter0528]

you can try a chamber cast with Chamber Casting Alloy Ingot aka low 158-190F[/H1] from Rotometals. Low melting point and and shrinks initially, but in 1 hs expands to exact dimensions.

Rotometals Chamber Alloy (158-190) is the best known material from which to make a casting of the chamber and throat of a firearm to determine caliber or check the dimensions. It melts at a temperature just above M & M's, so all you need is a propane torch and a bullet casting ladle. It can also be used to make a cast of a dovetail slot or any other hard to measure area. Also, it is great for removing the front half of a case from the chamber, in the event of case head separation; and lots of folks cast a small portion of the barrel to determine bore diameter. For best results, measure the casting one hour after casting.

 

[SouthLoganCountyShooter]

What's the history of that rifle? New factory? Used? Unknown garage find?

Slugging the bore:

After you check the barrel bore stuff, shove a small shim piece of cardboard under the barrel between it and the fore end of the stock. You bedded the action and lug, but didn't mention fully inletting the barrel channel all the way forward. Put the shim in and intentionally cause a forced interference and a third point of contact, and see how it reacts. Possible that it was right at the very edge and when fired is bumping the barrel channel, and then you bedded it, and it's still right at the edge but in the same (or different) spot.

Cheers,
-mox

New 2020 production 700 I floated the barrel then already tried adding business cards to barrel. I'm going to try the video you posted.