Grouping

[Shane Lindsey]

I was going to call BS but I checked and that is the factory torque setting. I learned something new today! Thanks, that's pretty wild lol.

Yeah me too.

I have researched before and found 65 front 40 rear. That with a "lug bedding" worked very well.

What I found recently is the new Hawkeye. Not sure if those are bedded/pillars from the factory.

 

[xsn10s]

Yeah me too.

I have researched before and found 65 front 40 rear. That with a "lug bedding" worked very well.

What I found recently is the new Hawkeye. Not sure if those are bedded/pillars from the factory.

I'd still probably use Lance's method of torque tuning with your findings and the newer torque settings. Heck I'd call Ruger to make sure I was using the right torque settings.

 

[VinceMule]

Some of the bare-bones basics on accurizing a Ruger 77, whether with a tang or not.

1. Float the magazine box, make sure it is loose between the floor plate and the action. Typically, many of the Ruger 77s are pushing up on the center of the action, and this kills the accuracy.

2. Free float the barrel

3. Critical to only tighten the center screw as tightly as you can using only your fingernail. If you bend the center of the action, putting stress on it, the rifle will not shoot well.

4. The action screws issue has been covered. I usually tighten the front as tight as I can by hand, and about half that on the rear.

5. I have pillar bedded the front angled screw with great results

I have bought used Ruger 77s that the owners could not get to shoot, done the work in #1 &#3, and the gun automatically started shooting 1" groups; the last one was a 257 Roberts.

When shooting off the bench, hold the forearm of the rifle down with your off hand, not squeezing the rear bag. Muzzle flip with the bullet still in the barrel while the gun is under recoil is a real thing. A muzzle break makes the 7 Rem mag a baby doll to shoot.

Do a little QC on your 77 Tang safety. Using a tight fitting patch, feel the bore dimension with the tight patch. If the pressure needed is uniform from front to back, you have a great barrel. If you feel what seems like tight and loose spots in the barrel, the barrel may or may not work to the accuracy you need, trial and error will be the key.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

Have many a Ruger 77's also Red Lables and precision rifles and each and every one had serviced by a Ruger Smith before they moved from CT. Don't know what he did but he did it and mine are some sweet shooters- my smith has since passed away and can't ask questions now, but am very glad he did what he did !

 

[canguy]

I have a Ruger 77 tang safety 7 mm mag, made in 1974, gun, stock and action are all in what I would consider pristine condition, I've went through all the basics, torque the stock, scope and rings, completely cleaned throughout, no problems with the bore, still can't seem to get it to group the way I want it to. Also have tried several different ammo brands and grains, I don't reload, so I can't go that route. Any suggestions? Yes barrel is floated and action is in stock solid.

What does the crown look like? Any nicks, burrs etc?

 

[Huntslow]

Great advice!
I own 3 early model 77's - 7mm Rem Mag, .284 Winchester and 6mm Remington. They all shoot 1.5 inch or batter with several different factory loads. I do much better with hand loads, but that doesn't apply here.

The front screw tension has been my accuracy "key" so that would be my first change. Mine all have stock pressure on the tip. I tried Jim Carmichael's trick of putting credit card "shims" under the action to free float the barrel, but saw no change in accuracy. I did seal the inside of the stocks in an attempt to avoid shifts from moisture.

 

[ken158]

Years ago, I thought free floating my Ruger would improve group size but it actually doubled group size. Put a contact point back in the barrel channel and all was good again. When you tighten the stock screws be sure you do the action screw first that goes in at an angle with a torque driver so you can repeat or change as necessary. Somewhere on the net will be a stock torque chart for Ruger.

 

[casey36]

I had a tang safety 7mm mag. It was the first rifle bought with my money! That was 45 years ago if I remember correctly . Mine was accurate with Remington 140 gr. PSP Core-Loct. I started reloading for it and 140gr. Nosler BT'S shot well. It wasn't a bughole gun, but was very consistent . 1-1.25" groups. I wish I would have never traded that rifle, it had beautiful wood.

 

[highfinblue]

I was going to call BS but I checked and that is the factory torque setting. I learned something new today! Thanks, that's pretty wild lol.

When I first found out Ruger specs were 95-inch pounds I was shocked too. I had to buy another torque wrench to get there, mine only went up to 60, and it's probably 20 years old and had never needed more than that. When I owned the M77 I mentioned earlier I didn't even know about torquing action screws. I was from the oilfield, and we tightened everything as tight as we could get it lol. My guns started shooting much better when I learned about proper torque for action, base, and ring screws, and I stopped breaking screws as well, it was a win, win.

 

[VinceMule]

I don't know if I would trust ruger spec, trial and error may produce the best results.

 

[ghklr67]

My Ruger M77 in 300WM did not group well with factory ammo, reloads were the order of the day with it and a Timney trigger kit. Now, lets talk about the front screw on the trigger guard - it will cause you no end of grief if it's torqued down too much. I set mine down to about 5 inch/pounds to set everything in place then back it out to just a tad over finger tight with a piece of electrical tape over the screw head to keep it in place. Try varying the tension on this screw along with the other recommendations and observe the results. My rifle now shoots sub-moa with hand loads - it had been about 2.5" at 100 when I got it, then started my learning curve.

Thanks, I rechecked, hopefully going to take out and shoot again soon, I'll update when I do!

 

[frostop]

I've had a few Ruger M77's, both Tang Safety and MkII's.
If it's not already bedded, bed it or get it bedded. Everything below is a waste of time if not bedded.
As far as tightening the action screws, I found that initially lightly tightening the front screw first(which pulls the action back into stock) than the rear screw, than torque the front to 40-50 inch pounds than the rear. The middle screw you really don't want to tighten more than what is needed to hold the front of the trigger guard in place, I usually put a little loctite on it and just snug it up. That screw can cause problems if tightened to much.

 

[frostop]

This is a Brownells video but It looks like he is a Ruger Rep.?
And I highly recommend ditching the slotted screws for the Allen head screws

 

[tonyf3]

I ruined the accuracy of a weatherby and two M77s by floating the original barrels.
I had to rebuild the pressure tip on all of them.
This may not be the answer in your case

the action screws are finicky.
my remaining M77s have aftermarket barrels and are bedded so i can get away being fully floated and 55inlbs on the front screw.
The rear screw is 25 and the middle screw is barely engaged has clear nail polish on the head so it doesn't vibrate out.