Graphite Treated Barrel Test (Pics)

[ObiWanKannoli]

From what I read, this may be a better option for colloidal graphite:

Neolube No.1, LUBRICANT - COLLOIDAL GRAPHITE IN ISOPROPANOL, MIL-L-24131C, manufactured by Huron Industries Inc. - Newman Tools

Neolube No. 1 is a dry film, conductive lubricant, used extensively at nuclear power generating plants and other nuclear facilities as an anti-seize compound, thread lubricant and for lubricating moving parts and rubbing surfaces.

www.newmantools.com

The particle size is much finer than what is generally found in the auto parts store leading to better 'filling of any pores in the barrel (particles are small enough to fit) and a more flat, uniform finish.

May not matter at all but I figured I'd add to the content here.

 

[Coldfinger]

I did an online search on NAPA site and it is not in stock online but they probably have it on the shelf in the stores. I'm going to look around for some.

Sorry to interrupt the thread as it's a great idea, but ohh boy something that works for the shooting community now the GOVT will be buying out all the NAPA chemicals!!!! Might want to start hoarding it NOW!!!

 

[ObiWanKannoli]

They were suggesting 99% IPA because the other percentage is water!!! I went to the local Walgreens but all they had was 70%. I keep the 90% IPA in the medicine cabinet all the time, since hBN is hydrophobic we're prolly OK with the 90%...

Colloidal graphite is insoluble in water. I would imagine after application, any residual water should be beaded up on the surface of the graphite. After allowing the application to dry, running a patch through should pick up any left over water. I would certainly lean to using 99%+ regardless.

 

[DoneNOut]

From what I read, this may be a better option for colloidal carbon:

Neolube No.1, LUBRICANT - COLLOIDAL GRAPHITE IN ISOPROPANOL, MIL-L-24131C, manufactured by Huron Industries Inc. - Newman Tools

Neolube No. 1 is a dry film, conductive lubricant, used extensively at nuclear power generating plants and other nuclear facilities as an anti-seize compound, thread lubricant and for lubricating moving parts and rubbing surfaces.

www.newmantools.com

The particle size is much finer than what is generally found in the auto parts store leading to better 'filling of any pores in the barrel (particles are small enough to fit) and a more flat, uniform finish.

May not matter at all but I figured I'd add to the content here.

$352 for the same size $6 can at NAPA? Dude...

 

[ObiWanKannoli]

$352 for the same size $6 can at NAPA? Dude...

Colloidal Graphite 2oz | gretanrifles

Colloidal Graphite in a isopropanol carrier. This is a dry film lubricant. This is the product that I coat every new barrel with that I install. This product fills the micro structure. So you have a graphite lubricant in the micro structure, instead of copper and carbon. This helps to prevent...

www.gretanrifles.com

 

[DoneNOut]

Colloidal Graphite 2oz | gretanrifles

Colloidal Graphite in a isopropanol carrier. This is a dry film lubricant. This is the product that I coat every new barrel with that I install. This product fills the micro structure. So you have a graphite lubricant in the micro structure, instead of copper and carbon. This helps to prevent...

www.gretanrifles.com

NAPA for the win. I'm glad to see how much money I can save over that Neolube.

 

[Willys]

I use this on a patch . Also use to lube raw brass necks - spray in a small cup or cap (in a gal ziplock) Tilt cup at an angle so there is 3/8 " deep, then dip brass neck in, wipe off out side stand primer up in tray. Takes a minute to prep 30 new or pin cleaned brass.

 

[Roninco]

I am curious as to what cleaning and copper defouling products others are using and which products that you prefer. I seem to have good results with the Wipeout brand, both the Wipeout and the accelerator used as directed. Anyone have something else that they use and/or recommend that works on the copper. I have a couple of the ammonia based products but the wipeout is what I use most often, mostly due to less smell and fumes in the house.

KG Products. KG 1 for carbon removal, KG 12 for copper, KG 2 if you need a bore polish. Non-ammonia based, odorless, non-toxic. Does not give false positive indications if using a bronze brush or jag. Simply follow directions on containers.

 

[DoneNOut]

KG Products. KG 1 for carbon removal, KG 12 for copper, KG 2 if you need a bore polish. Non-ammonia based, odorless, non-toxic. Does not give false positive indications if using a bronze brush or jag. Simply follow directions on containers.

and really if you keep the copper from building up you can just resort to Hoppes 9!

 

[Old Rooster]

I've been using lock eas for a month or so now and like it.

WapitiBob,same procedure?

 

[Old Rooster]

You can speed up your solvent drying process with a few patches of 91% alcohol, or a degreaser like gun scrubber.

Yep I always finish up with 2 patches of Alcohol.
Edit:But if using Graphite I won't use anything after application except maybe a light thin patch .

 

[WapitiBob]

CLR for carbon, then montana copper killer, then maybe 5 strokes of iosso. A cpl patches of clr to remove the junk, then a cpl patches of acetone to clean the barrel, then a cpl dry patches on a solid jag to make sure all the acetone is out, let sit for a few minutes to evap any residual, then 2 semi loose patches soaked with lock ease (in the squeeze bottle).
I used to dry patch after the lock ease but left it in last night. I need to stretch 10 pcs of new brass today and will scope it before and after cleaning.

 

[C-130 Dude]

I did an online search on NAPA site and it is not in stock online but they probably have it on the shelf in the stores. I'm going to look around for some.

Amazon has it. If you want. Just ordered a bottle 3 days ago.

 

[Mikecr]

I work at 6 nuclear sites, where we use gallons of Neolube (formally DAG) annually.
Two things about it;
1. If you apply it to threading and screw parts together before it's fully dry, those parts will never come apart again. I've had to cut em apart.
2. Whatever you get of it on your hands, bench, floor, tools, is practically permanent. Never spill this stuff!

It would be interesting to know how it affects MV, load performance, and cleaning.
I suspect that you'll never get it out