Getting the right weight rifle

You will enjoy shooting a lighter rifle in 7RM more or a 280AI. If you are going to use a can I would go with 20" 7SAUM or 284win.
 
Sub 10 all in. As pictured below. I'd suggest getting a new can too. Ti cans are not cheap but you'll be happier. The right design can helps a lot with recoil but you'll still likely be bounced off the target occasionally, just won't be beat up.
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The right weight in my opinion really depends on how far you plan to shoot accurately. I realize this is LRH, but if shots at game are kept say 500yds and in (for me), don't be afraid of lightweights. Mine require very different shooting technique than anything in the 9 or 10lb range, but that doesn't mean they are not accurate! currently I'm hunting with a 338 WSM that is 7-3/4lbs all up. IMO it's too heavy for long backpack hunts if that's your thing (it's my thing), and in a smaller caliber you could go a fair bit lighter without sacrificing much.
IMO keeping your barrel contour reasonable (2+) on a lightweight improves the balance and puts some weight out front making the rifle much easier to steer. ultralight barrels make rifles balance in the rear and make accuracy more challenging.
 
Generally speaking, if I'm carrying a rifle over the shoulder, then I like to stay under 9 lbs fully outfitted. That weight handles the common magnum calibers fairly well. It feels heavy at the end of they day but its not terrible.

If I carry the rifle on a pack, I can easily go up in weight. However, for extended mountain hikes, a 12+ lb rifle on a pack is noticeable.

On rifles <7 lbs, adding a brake that weights a couple oz can significantly reduce recoil to the point that one could shed a couple lbs of gun weight. Suppressors don't reduce recoil as much and add weigh and length. Suppressors and brakes aren't an apples to apples comparison as the rifles overall shape and performance can be significantly different.
 
ultralight barrels make rifles balance in the rear and make accuracy more challenging.
I agree for typical stocks. However, putting an UL stock on makes the balance point shift forward.

I'm playing with lighter and lighter guns these days. Adding brakes makes shooting magnums in those ultralights more reasonable.
 
I just completed a similar project as described in the OP:

30 Nosler
Lone Peak Fusion Ti
Proof Research 24" CF barrel
McMillian Varmint
Nightforce MX8 2.5-20x50 MOAR-CF2
Silencerco Omega 300

Ended up about 10 1/2 lbs. The suppressor has a brake as the end cap. Doesn't seem to make sense to suppress and have a brake, but it sure tames the recoil with the report very tolerable. I like the more traditional stock configuration. I'm shooting 180 gr Hammer Hunters at 3200 ft/sec. This load is very well behaved and precise.

I just finished this and haven't hunted with it yet. Looking forward to a cow elk tag or 2 this fall.

This brake is quite compact. A 22" barrel could make it a little less awkward.

I am very happy with the results. The same thing could be done with either your favored 300 WM or the 28 Nosler.
 
I agree for typical stocks. However, putting an UL stock on makes the balance point shift forward.

I'm playing with lighter and lighter guns these days. Adding brakes makes shooting magnums in those ultralights more reasonable.
Absolutely, the lighter the stock and action, the lighter you can go on contour without ruining balance.
 
Check out this recoil calculator

I use it all the time to try and quantify felt recoil.
 
Since I'm old and only 160 pounds I go for light weight first. Seven and a quarter is about my max. My rifles are magnums. I use brakes so the Thunder beast stays on my son-in-law's rifle. I also NEVER fire a rifle without hearing protection. Ear plugs and electronic earmuff at the range and electronic earmuff while hunting.
 
At 3/4 century young, 150-155 lbs, I have hunted the Colorado mountains over half my life. Lighter has always been better. My "heavy" 300 WM Win Mdl 70 all weather ss fully field ready is right at 9 lbs on my scale. I don't enjoy carrying it much. Personally I am searching for a Kimber Montana in 30-06. Plenty of gun to kill the biggest bull in the woods at any distance I want to hike after the shot.
In the mountains if you take a cross canyon shot you may be walking a couple of miles just to get to your downed game. JME
I have found when hiking the mountains recoil becomes much less relevant than carrying the rifle. Again JMO&E.
Best of luck finding what works best on your shoulders! None are perfect.
 
Best of luck finding what works best on your shoulders! None are perfect.
1+ on "none are perfect." If you have friends with guns in the caliber and weight class you are interested in, ask to shoot them. You'll gain a great feel for what to expect prior to your own build. Light weight parts or expensive. Ultralight parts, even more. Its worth doing the research and questions asking before diving in.
 
I grew up a horrible shooter. My dad put a .30-06 in my hands when it was too much for me. He gave me rem corelokt 180s because there were elk and deer overlapping. It wasn't until, the Army put 5.56 in my hands that I learned to shoot well. I've spent 27 years since then developing knowledge, skill, expertise and a love of shooting and hunting.
So the point of this is, that a few years ago I had a theft that left me starting over, building a stable of guns. I've tried to make the most of my "opportunity", to choose each new purchase to fill a real niche. My first choice was of course a 300WM. With that, I could hunt everything minus dangerous game, and then as I expanded my stable again I could fill in more niche calibers…and so we come to the question " whats next?"

In buying the 300WM, I had never shot more than a 30-06. I was really worried about recoil, and bought a rem 700 5r that weighed 8.5 lbs, add a 32 oz scope, rings bases, ammo, a qd/ muzzle brake, and a 28 oz yhm can ( its old, I know theres much lighter ones now), and I'm pushing 13 pounds. It shoots well, a bear, many white tail, a few hogs, and lots of steel have been "rung" up. But at 13 pounds I have trouble lugging it around, and the can over a 24" barrel becomes unwieldy. I was thinking of biting off on the mountain rifle craze, and purchasing a lightweight 7-08. Thats when dome army buddies had to chime in. One quoted the 13 Warrior and simply said, grow stronger. Others said, you've already got your all around caliber, just make the rifle lighter or get a new one.

What do you consider a "walking weight" rifle in 300WM? I got it that recoil tolerance is subjective. I can handle .30-06 type recoil just fine ( 8.5 pounds with scope). So whats your experience with heavier calibers, at finding the sweet spot of shootability vs carrying weight?
Unless you are like me and just want another rifle...You already have the caliber.Just lighten it up..The recoil is not the deciding factor.Its the rifle weight. I mean how many times will you actually shoot at 1 more bear or 1 elk or 1 moose??? Thats only 3 shots after you get it sighted in.
Now if you dont want to take apart your current rifle than go get you a new one in 7mm-08,,Thats a **** good choice. My 6.5 PRC mountain rifle weighs just a little less than 8 lbs with optics.
 

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