Gear Weight Considerations

[SidecarFlip]

My take on Savage Factory installed brakes is there are better out there. EGW produces all the Savage brakes and mount rails.

Whichever way you go, keep the weight down as low as possible. Your shoulders will thank you and it makes room for extra granola bars or water......

My go to rifle is a 308 11-111 Savage Lightweight hunter. We also have a 6.5 Creedmore. 308 rounds are available everywhere, 6.5's aren't.

 

[angus-5024]

Look at the 7 SAUM or WSM. you could then use a short action, and possibly build a semi-custom rig off your .308.

 

[aspenbugle]

All good ideas on the chamberings. Brakes are good too, and I have one, but if loud concussive noises is an issue - remember you will need a plan to avoid that in the woods. I don't think it's often realistic to put on ear protection when something pops up short-range. That means you'd need to be wearing some electronic ear protection. Ask others here who have hunted with it - I haven't. Some I've heard say they don't like it, because of how it magnifies everything (but that is one brand/type). I use a muzzle brake for practicing then remove it for hunting, after adjusting for any POI change.

A light-weight gun is great. A magnum is great, and with a brake, even light-weight ones can have manageable recoil. I'd rather deal with the extra punch in the shoulder vs. the muzzle break noise when hunting since it shouldn't be many rounds and with the adrenaline you'll likely not feel it much. I guess it depends if you want a one-gun hunting battery primarily for now. If so, a light-weight magnum with a removeable brake is probably good. If you can ever envision having two rifles, you may get a light-weight non-magnum for everything 400 yds and less (which covers a LOT of hunting situations, even out West). Then, you could get a heavier 10-12# magnum chambered and twisted for stuff out to 1000. However, you can try to cover all bases with one gun - it's all a bit of a compromise and personal preference.

As to hunting/scouting etc. there are quite a few decent books on Western Big Game hunting, you can also catch some decent shows on the outdoor channel with western hunting (not all are that useful or educational, but some give you some idea of what to do and expect, especially if it's all new to you).

 

[COBrad]

Plenty of good information and experience here already, but I'll throw mine in as well. I have always preferred to go light and mobile. I live and hunt in Colorado, where the mountains are steep and elevations high. Every ounce counts. My current big game rifle is a custom 270 WSM. This rifle goes about 8lbs scoped, and has been shooting a lot of groups in the .5 MOA range. I chose this rifle because it is light enough to pack around mile after mile, day after day, and heavy enough to settle and shoot well. The caliber is virtually identical to the 7 rem mag , and doesn't recoil heavy enough to require a brake to tame it. If I have ammo problems I can walk into Wal-Mart and expect to find more.

 

[PPD7800]

As far as muzzle blast/report and to reduce felt recoil how about a suppresser? Check with UT Department of Wildlife and find out if suppressers are legal to hunt with. Here in AZ it will be come this September.

 

[Greyfox]

I haven't found the blast from the brake on my 6.5x284 much of an issue unless I'm shooting prone. Then it is a killer. I keep a set of the cheap Silencio plugs that have a plastic wire attached to each ear plug around my collar if I do go prone. It's fast and works well.

 

[SidecarFlip]

When I think of a supressor, I think of Mission Impossible.... I'd never have one personally.... not only from the added weight (something we are trying to eliminate in the first place but from publically viewed perspective.

I'm curious however. Because of the design of a supressor I think (from an engineering standpoint) that any supressoe would alter not only the POI but the projectile speed and possibly barrel harmonics.

The very physics of noise supression as it concerns firearms, the supression of noise comes from reversing and absorbing spent gases as they exit the muzzle, much like the muffler on your car...... hence the term 'muffler' for supressor.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I haven't found the blast from the brake on my 6.5x284 much of an issue unless I'm shooting prone. Then it is a killer. I keep a set of the cheap Silencio plugs that have a plastic wire attached to each ear plug around my collar if I do go prone. It's fast and works well.

I never consider any 'electronic' muffs except for indoor shooting or outdoor benchrest. I keep a pair of the 'gummy plugs' with the attaching lanyard in my pocket or around my neck if needed.

I fine the 'electronic' muffs a PITA anyway.

Electronic muffs or any headgear would certainly be a weight consideration in as much as there are viable, much lighter alternatives available..... much cheaper too.

 

[WildRose]

I've got both the Gentry Quiet brake and Shrewd Varmint Brakes on several different rifles now.

I can tell you from the shooter's perspective with either one you get significant recoil reduction and the noise/blast is not a problem at all. I'm usually shooting in a hurry as in driving along, see it, grab the rifle while getting stopped, hang the rifle out the window and shoot, for probably 90% of my shooting and I've shot even the 300 Rum with the GQB without any ear protection and it's just not a problem at all.

Both of these brakes angle the ports slightly forward so that both the blast and sound are carried to the front.

They will not be as effective with recoil reduction as some others, but even with the Rum driving 180gr bullets at 3,250 FPS the recoil is quite tolerable.

Both brakes also reduce muzzle flip enough such that you can see your hits as well.

 

[BlackWhiskey]

I'm considering options in 270 WSM and 7mm Rem Mag now (both braked). I know that they are very similar with regard to trajectory, but the 7mm Mag is able to sling heavier bullets which I assume would make it more effective at further distances on larger game. This does, however, produce more recoil, but I think with a brake it will be manageable.

Is there any advantage to the 270 WSM over the 7mm Mag that I am not taking into consideration? Also, is it reasonable to attempt to take elk at extended ranges (600-800) yds with the 270 WSM?

Thanks again for all your help and input.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I've got both the Gentry Quiet brake and Shrewd Varmint Brakes on several different rifles now.

I can tell you from the shooter's perspective with either one you get significant recoil reduction and the noise/blast is not a problem at all. I'm usually shooting in a hurry as in driving along, see it, grab the rifle while getting stopped, hang the rifle out the window and shoot, for probably 90% of my shooting and I've shot even the 300 Rum with the GQB without any ear protection and it's just not a problem at all.

Both of these brakes angle the ports slightly forward so that both the blast and sound are carried to the front.

They will not be as effective with recoil reduction as some others, but even with the Rum driving 180gr bullets at 3,250 FPS the recoil is quite tolerable.

Both brakes also reduce muzzle flip enough such that you can see your hits as well.

Not on thread but that might work in the Lone Star State but up here in Michigan it will get you a barred motel room and stale doughnuts if you get caught.

 

[Greyfox]

I'm considering options in 270 WSM and 7mm Rem Mag now (both braked). I know that they are very similar with regard to trajectory, but the 7mm Mag is able to sling heavier bullets which I assume would make it more effective at further distances on larger game. This does, however, produce more recoil, but I think with a brake it will be manageable.

Is there any advantage to the 270 WSM over the 7mm Mag that I am not taking into consideration? Also, is it reasonable to attempt to take elk at extended ranges (600-800) yds with the 270 WSM?

Thanks again for all your help and input.

I have owned and like both cartridges. I use my 270WSM out to a max of 600-700 yards using the typical 130-150 grain loads. The short action is probably the advantage making for a more compact rifle. The 270WSM can be effective further out if you load a bullet like the 165 gr Matrix, but there are requirements for faster twist, seating depth, and magazine length that most of the commercially available rifles don't have. I would personally go with the 7mmMag at the longer ranges. Better
ballistics, VLD bullet selection, heavier bullets, and not much of a difference in recoil, especially if you are using a brake.

 

[Jordan Smith]

I have owned and like both cartridges. I use my 270WSM out to a max of 600-700 yards using the typical 130-150 grain loads. The short action is probably the advantage making for a more compact rifle. The 270WSM can be effective further out if you load a bullet like the 165 gr Matrix, but there are requirements for faster twist, seating depth, and magazine length that most of the commercially available rifles don't have. I would personally go with the 7mmMag at the longer ranges. Better
ballistics, VLD bullet selection, heavier bullets, and not much of a difference in recoil, especially if you are using a brake.

+1

Nothing wrong with the .270WSM, but there are only a couple of decent LR bullets available, and they aren't plentiful or cheap. You can get the 162gr A-Max in 7mm, which makes for some fairly economical practice. If you want more bullet for longer shots on larger animals, you can use the 180gr VLD or Hybrid, and the 195gr EOL is supposed to come out soon, which will arrive on target like a freight train.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Based on your criteria, I would do one of 3 things:

- Tear apart your .308 and build a LW 7WSM off of the action. Throw a #2 Krieger barrel at 24", McMillan Edge stock, etc, and shoot for 7-7.5lbs all up and ready to go

- Buy a Kimber Montana in 7WSM if you can find it, or if not, a 270WSM. Pick up a VX3 3.5-10x40 and have Leupold add an M1 elevation turret, throw it in some Talley LW's, and rock on.

- Start fresh with a R700 long action and build a light 7RM. You can get a hunt-ready rig that goes 7-7.5lbs, or a tad less, if you're careful with the build.

Your Surgeon is great for what it's designed for, but it sounds to me like you need an accurate LW rifle for hunting the steep terrain and mountains.