First build 300 mag.

[Powerstroke73]

New guy here

I have an old Remington 700 in 300 win mag that just sits in the safe for the most part. Here's what I want to do: true and time action, ptg one piece spiral fluted bolt (might as well since action is being trued) Jewell trigger, badger m5 DBM, Krieger #17 heavy varmint finished to 1" dia. at muzzle 4groove 28" long 1-10 twist, McMillan a5 or a4 stock and either loopy or nightforce optics. I'm just kinda spit ballin this setup, so if y'all have better ideas let me hear them.

I like the idea of using the 215gr and 230gr bergers, but I'd also like to experiment with lighter weight bullets too. So, how do I determine the length the throat needs to be? Badger states that the maximum oacl for the 300 mag magazines is 3.653". So, would the throat need to be cut to exactly 3.653", longer or shorter? What I'm trying to ask is, is there a generic length that would accomodate all length and weight bullets or do i need to pick one bullet and have the throat cut for that one bullet? I'm new to reloading if you couldn't tell haha. So, if y'all could shed some light on this subject I'd really appreciate it. Thanks gun)

 

[Powerstroke73]

Thoughts?

 

[Powerstroke73]

Any help?

 

[ultraedge]

I would not go with a 1-piece bolt. I would use the Remington bolt, have an M-16 extractor installed, and have the bolt handle timed and tig welded on by Nathan Dagley at SSG or Dan's Accutig. PTG 2 piece bolts also works well. Gary

 

[Sully2]

Throat it for the maximum length bullet. Should you go with a shorter slug...its true that you will jump into the bore but seating shorter slugs out further will help with that considerable.

As far as the one piece bolt goes...do it if you wish but unless your after Brown Bears that will eat your butt in case of a bolt separation....save your $$ and use the factory bolt

 

[Powerstroke73]

As far as the one piece bolt goes...do it if you wish but unless your after Brown Bears that will eat your butt in case of a bolt separation....save your $$ and use the factory bolt

That's a good call on the bolt. Also like the idea of an m16 extractor. Never cared for the sako extractor. Sorta of off topic question, but what is the consensus on ceracoating the entire bolt and inside receiver? Once the action and bolt are trued is the ceracoat gonna make the tolerances too tight? If it's no bueno then I'll leave it alone. Thanks for the replys.

 

[Sully2]

That's a good call on the bolt. Also like the idea of an m16 extractor. Never cared for the sako extractor. Sorta of off topic question, but what is the consensus on ceracoating the entire bolt and inside receiver? Once the action and bolt are trued is the ceracoat gonna make the tolerances too tight? If it's no bueno then I'll leave it alone. Thanks for the replys.

Leave it alone...

 

[Punisher]

Leave it alone...

It isn't going to alter your tolerances. The Cerakote will wear quickly where it needs to. It will, however feel like your action is full of gravel. Don't do the bolt or inside the action if you want it to be smooth.

 

[J E Custom]

New guy here

I have an old Remington 700 in 300 win mag that just sits in the safe for the most part. Here's what I want to do: true and time action, ptg one piece spiral fluted bolt (might as well since action is being trued) Jewell trigger, badger m5 DBM, Krieger #17 heavy varmint finished to 1" dia. at muzzle 4groove 28" long 1-10 twist, McMillan a5 or a4 stock and either loopy or nightforce optics. I'm just kinda spit ballin this setup, so if y'all have better ideas let me hear them.

I like the idea of using the 215gr and 230gr bergers, but I'd also like to experiment with lighter weight bullets too. So, how do I determine the length the throat needs to be? Badger states that the maximum oacl for the 300 mag magazines is 3.653". So, would the throat need to be cut to exactly 3.653", longer or shorter? What I'm trying to ask is, is there a generic length that would accomodate all length and weight bullets or do i need to pick one bullet and have the throat cut for that one bullet? I'm new to reloading if you couldn't tell haha. So, if y'all could shed some light on this subject I'd really appreciate it. Thanks gun)

In my opinion the PT&G bolt is a good idea, because the bolt work on the Remington bolt will cost as much as the Complete PT&G bolt with the spiral flutes. Be sure to tell PT&G to give you the Offset bolt handle that fits the Remington stocks. (They make it with a straight bolt handle also).

I would also recommend using a SAMME specification reamer and Not throating for a "Special" bullet
that limits what you can shoot, especially if it doesn't like the bullet you chose.

The 1 in 10 twist will handle anything in the 180 to 230 range bullets well.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[Powerstroke73]

Ok, got the barrel ordered today. Four month wait......yeah. I kinda like the idea of not having to drop $$ on the pt&g bolt. Other than the spiral flutes and the ability to add a custom bolt knob what is the pt&g gonna do for me that my stock bolt won't do? Is the rifle gonna be any less accurate? Surely not. Thanks for the replys.

On a side note, when i call up McMillan to place an order are they gonna take my plastic money right then and there or do they wait until its ready to ship?

 

[Hired Gun]

I like to Cerakote inside and out. It cuts .004" of clearance from the .008" to .009" that the factory bolt has. This makes it about as tight as a lot of customs. Doing the lugs helps keep them from ever galling should you get light on the grease. The Cerakote also does wonders for keeping out water in bad conditions that will rust even stainless with prolonged exposure.

 

[hntinfool]

The important thing a PTG bolt would do, is allow you to determine the exact bolt to receiver clearance you want. You can custom order the bolt diameter to fit the trued bolt raceway with whatever clearance you want.