Fat basterd break

[Rock Carey]

Has anyone used the gen 3 fat basterd on a 110 ultra lite in 28 nosler for long range hunting?
The big question, is a 7 oz break to heavy for a rifle that weighs less than 7 lbs.

 

[marksman1941]

That's ridiculously heavy. May as well run a suppressor at that point

 

[Rock Carey]

That's ridiculously heavy. May as well run a suppressor at that point

Do ya have a recomendation?
Breaks are new to me.

 

[Hoss50]

Axisworks breaks work well. What thread is your rifle?

We put a 5 port titanium on my son's 7lb 7mm-08 and the recoil is next to nothing. Thr same brake on my 10lb 300 win mag let's my 8yr old shoot it without issue.

We also put the smaller 1/2 thread brake on my son's 8lb 6.5prc and my 8yr old shoots it no problem.

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[Rock Carey]

My concern is 7 oz seams to be pretty heavy for a rifle that weighs less than 7lbs.
I guess i should have checked the weight prior to purchase.
Thank for your response.

 

[Hoss50]

My concern is 7 oz seams to be pretty heavy for a rifle that weighs less than 7lbs.
I guess i should have checked the weight prior to purchase.
Thank for your response.

Definitely don't hang a 7oz brake on the end of it. If it is that light I assume it is probably threaded 1/2×28. Axisworks 4 port series 2 brake will help tame it. It helps tame a 6.5prc for my son, and a 8lb 338 win mag for me.

I have a gen 1 3 port micro bastard brake on a 300 weatherby and it really helps that rifle. It had to be timed though. It wasn't self timing.

 

[FEENIX]

Has anyone used the gen 3 fat basterd on a 110 ultra lite in 28 nosler for long range hunting?
The big question, is a 7 oz break to heavy for a rifle that weighs less than 7 lbs.

No, a 7-ounce (.44 pounds) muzzle brake on a 7-pound rifle is not too heavy.

 

[redchinviking]

Check these out…

Titanium PRO Brakes – Salmon River Solutions

 

[NSP64]

I have a gen 3 on my RPR 300wm.
It tops out at 22 pounds fully outfitted.
Not too heavy.

 

[FEENIX]

Do ya have a recomendation?
Breaks are new to me.

My concern is 7 oz seams to be pretty heavy for a rifle that weighs less than 7lbs.
I guess i should have checked the weight prior to purchase.
Thank for your response.

I have been using various muzzle devices (brakes and suppressors) since 2003. What do you consider a light muzzle brake to marry up with a rifle? My WAG is you are looking for a muzzle brake because of the stout recoil of your light gun. Weight is your friend when it comes to felt recoil. Good luck with whatever muzzle device you end up with.

 

[BEEMAN]

Another vote for the TiPro. Put one on my 10 lb 338 RUM. Very comfortable to shoot. Salmon river solutions was also very helpful in answering any questions I had.

 

[AZShooter]

"I think I should share the following information. There is a minimum diameter suggested for threading a brake. I have no idea if your 110 ultralite has enough metal. It sounds like it might have a thin barrel. Depends on the bore size too.

Thanks to JE Custom:

There seems to be a lot of varying opinions on what size of barrel can or can't have a muzzle brake installed.

I am sure some will disagree and that's all right, so here goes.

After talking to barrel makers and engineers and using their recommendations for MINIMUM wall thickness I found that this was a rule that most were not willing to break for safety reasons.

After doing all of the calculations using this information this is what I came up with and use for all of my brake installations.

It is based on the caliber of the barrel and safe wall thickness remaining after threading. these dimensions at the muzzle of the barrel are "MINIMUM" for safely installing a muzzle brake.

.224 bore = .563 muzzle diameter
.244 bore = .584 muzzle diameter
.257 bore = .597 muzzle diameter
.264 bore = .604 muzzle diameter
.277 bore = .617 muzzle diameter
.284 bore = .624 muzzle diameter
.308 bore = .648 muzzle diameter
.323 bore = .663 muzzle diameter
.338 bore = .678 muzzle diameter
.350 bore = .690 muzzle diameter
.375 bore = .715 muzzle diameter
.400 bore = .740 muzzle diameter
.416 bore = .756 muzzle diameter
.425 bore = .765 muzzle diameter
.458 bore = .798 muzzle diameter
.470 bore = .810 muzzle diameter
.510 bore = .850 muzzle diameter
.570 bore = .910 muzzle diameter
.600 bore = .940 muzzle diameter

These dimensions are also minimum recommended wall thickness after fluting (Bottom of flute to bore).

There is some support from the muzzle brake depending on the quality of the threads, but I don't recommend relying on the brake to make up the minimum wall thickness. on very small barrels finer thread pitches are normally used because on thread height (The finer the thread the shorter the thread height, using less of the barrel wall thickness.

Also, as bore diameters increase more stress is placed on the barrel because of the larger surface of the barrel wall.

This post is not intended to be the last word, it is just a guide line to help decide if it is possible to install a muzzle brake safely on your barrel."

Be safe

J E CUSTOM
===============
I came across this when I was considering a brake for my rather thin 338. I realized my dimensions are too small. I ordered a Witt clamp on brake instead.

 

[Hoggetter]

For factory ammo I found stainless brakes to preform great. The apa little bastard is 4.4oz and works great Also the SS Pro ST 4port is 4oz and looks better and works great. 7oz brake is to much.

 

[ARlife4me]

Definitely don't hang a 7oz brake on the end of it. If it is that light I assume it is probably threaded 1/2×28. Axisworks 4 port series 2 brake will help tame it. It helps tame a 6.5prc for my son, and a 8lb 338 win mag for me.

I have a gen 1 3 port micro bastard brake on a 300 weatherby and it really helps that rifle. It had to be timed though. It wasn't self timing.

I own 3 factory 110's and all have a 5/8x24tpi. If he's talking about 1/2" od on brake size, that eems small and darn near impossible. No way Savage thread that size on a 28cal. Per Savage website states 5/8×24 on muzzle threads.