I re-calibrate my scales after about every 20 ~ 30 rounds.
Electronic scale tips to ensure accuracy
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johnnyk
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I use a re-programmed Charge Master w/straw added. I throw all my charges .2gn light and move it over to the Mettler Toledo AB104-S (pricey) and finish the load using the Omega 2 Speed Trickler.
The first load out of my CM is usually heavy by .2-.4gn and everything afterwards is dead on. I turn both my scales on about 15-20 minutes before starting, as I set down to begin, then I calibrate both with the same Class I weights. These weights are more than accurate enough for the CM but necessary for the Mettler. While the CM measures/reads +/- .2gn the MT reads +/- .002gn.
I don't usually have to adjust either scale until the next loading session but I will occasionally, during the session, put weights on the pans for safety and peace of mind. Some seem to be annoyed with having to calibrate their scales. I don't think of it as a "nuisance" but rather "par for the course" when dealing with measuring masses. Especially GUN POWDER! and to quote Clint E. "and could blow your head clean off"! LOL. All joking aside, this is one time where it's better safe than sorry.
I think most folks do not need this type of scale to load consistently accurate LR loads. The CM is plenty accurate enough, as is the ole 10-10 or 5-0-5. IMO, more important in the overall scheme for LR reloading is buying the best brass you can afford and dies which provide consistent neck tension. I think if you can keep your SD's in the single digits (5, or below, if possible) and you do your part then your bullets will land very, very close together out yonder. Just some "food for thought".
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
I know a lot of discussion has been offered here but throwing in my $.02. I know a lot of folks don't like the RCBS Rangemaster 2000 but I have been getting good results for over a year with it. I load in my basement like a lot of folks where temp is pretty stable at 60 degrees except during really cold spells in the winter. It is definitely very temperature sensitive. One really cold winter spell, my basement dropped few degrees such that I have a small ceramic heater I use next to my reloading bench. It was immediately apparent the scale doesn't like temperature swings caused by the heater. It would not hold calibration nor consistent zero. I shut the heater off and in a few minutes the scale was dead on again.
I always turn it on for 30 minutes prior to calibration. Always have something to work on while it is getting room acclimated. I haven't seen any fluorescent lighting impact but I also have a 100W LED bulb nearby so not sure what that is doing for light.
Calibration holds through 50 rounds without any problem at all. I was checking every 10 rounds with RCBS balance beam and was dead on every single time just to be sure. I also would weigh calibration weights close to the powder weight I was using and they were also dead on every single time. One way to monitor the calibration was to observe the minus tare weight of the pan that shows when you remove the pan. If it returned same minus number, you are essentially still calibrated to the zero of the pan.
Like everyone else, I know it is not a balance beam for response and you cannot expect to see the same response BUT you can get faster results if you develop your own methodology to see the trickle powder changes. Some may think tedious but once I started to get accustom to how I was using it, the process became easier and faster.
Here's the rub to get accurate final powder weights that I came up with that works for me. Once I trickled in powder to be around couple tenths below the desired weight, I would remove the pan to allow the scale to cycle back to the minus tare weight of the pan which is instantaneous and return pan to scale. This assures you have the correct final weight on the scale so you can trickle in the remaining tenths for final weight. After each trickle, remove pan as above and return to scale which will immediately record the slightest powder change. If you don't remove scale, it takes forever to see a change and in fact you will likely blow by your final desired weight. Once you get knack for the added slight trickle powder change, the process speeds up immensely. You actually develop a sense for how much you need to add to get to final weight so the time gets shorter each time you use the scale.
For those who really want a laugh, I wanted to really get the most accurate weight possible so I weighed the charge to 0.1 below the desired weight and then started to drop one extruded granule at a time into the pan with a tweezer, raising the pan and resetting after each added granule. I could actually see the change from the 0.1 weight below the desired weight change to the weight by one granule added. OK, how many are laughing? I went to range and the results were interesting to say the least. The average velocity was consistent and the ES was generally 10 or less and the SD was 5 or less. This test was done with RL-16 load for .270. Tedious is understatement but it works well for me. I actually started to laugh at this when I was loading my .243 and it was ball powder. Yep, passed on trying it there.
I always turn it on for 30 minutes prior to calibration. Always have something to work on while it is getting room acclimated. I haven't seen any fluorescent lighting impact but I also have a 100W LED bulb nearby so not sure what that is doing for light.
Calibration holds through 50 rounds without any problem at all. I was checking every 10 rounds with RCBS balance beam and was dead on every single time just to be sure. I also would weigh calibration weights close to the powder weight I was using and they were also dead on every single time. One way to monitor the calibration was to observe the minus tare weight of the pan that shows when you remove the pan. If it returned same minus number, you are essentially still calibrated to the zero of the pan.
Like everyone else, I know it is not a balance beam for response and you cannot expect to see the same response BUT you can get faster results if you develop your own methodology to see the trickle powder changes. Some may think tedious but once I started to get accustom to how I was using it, the process became easier and faster.
Here's the rub to get accurate final powder weights that I came up with that works for me. Once I trickled in powder to be around couple tenths below the desired weight, I would remove the pan to allow the scale to cycle back to the minus tare weight of the pan which is instantaneous and return pan to scale. This assures you have the correct final weight on the scale so you can trickle in the remaining tenths for final weight. After each trickle, remove pan as above and return to scale which will immediately record the slightest powder change. If you don't remove scale, it takes forever to see a change and in fact you will likely blow by your final desired weight. Once you get knack for the added slight trickle powder change, the process speeds up immensely. You actually develop a sense for how much you need to add to get to final weight so the time gets shorter each time you use the scale.
For those who really want a laugh, I wanted to really get the most accurate weight possible so I weighed the charge to 0.1 below the desired weight and then started to drop one extruded granule at a time into the pan with a tweezer, raising the pan and resetting after each added granule. I could actually see the change from the 0.1 weight below the desired weight change to the weight by one granule added. OK, how many are laughing? I went to range and the results were interesting to say the least. The average velocity was consistent and the ES was generally 10 or less and the SD was 5 or less. This test was done with RL-16 load for .270. Tedious is understatement but it works well for me. I actually started to laugh at this when I was loading my .243 and it was ball powder. Yep, passed on trying it there.
Deputy819
Well-Known Member
Buckskinner
Well-Known Member
It must be a bad apple if all the regular culprits are eliminated. I use my Chargemaster and QC with a beam. 95% of the time it is dead on, never under and at most .2 over, but generally .1
It is so dead nuts that I feel silly putting it on a beam to verify, but it is an extra pan so it can keep dispensing as I'm usually seating bullets while dropping powder.
It is so dead nuts that I feel silly putting it on a beam to verify, but it is an extra pan so it can keep dispensing as I'm usually seating bullets while dropping powder.
User4302021
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I have been playing with the idea of getting a surplus apothecary torsion balance. They are fairly cheap,and have the requisite sensitivity. They are bulky though.
They work a bit differently, but are graduated in grains. You put a reference load on one side and balnce it on the other side. All it would take is two pans of identical weight.
I think they are pretty neat, I might just buy one as a conversation piece for display.
They work a bit differently, but are graduated in grains. You put a reference load on one side and balnce it on the other side. All it would take is two pans of identical weight.
I think they are pretty neat, I might just buy one as a conversation piece for display.
Alex Wheeler
Well-Known Member
A chargemaster or any other cheaper scale is good to about +/- .2 gn. They can be that far off and still read the target weight. My advise if you serious about lr accuracy is to pick up a fx-120i scale. It wont drift, and it will be accurate down to the individual kernel of powder. That scale has become the standard for long range competitors for almost 10 years now.
Been using the chargemaster for a couple of years and it has been flawless. I never turn it off and always calibrate it but that is usually not necessary. If you are expecting it to drop the exact amount on its own that will seldom happen. I always set it for a tenth gr less than my desired charge and use a pick to drag single grains of powder out of the straw until the exact amount is delivered. Usually have to draw out 3-4 single grains of cylindrical powder to reach the desired weight. Just takes a few seconds to get it right if you need it to be perfect. I set a 50g calibrating weight in to check it occasionally but it has always been right on.
User4302021
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Sartorius just came out with the Entris series of scales. They are solid performers as well. Both the FX-120 and the Entris are Magnetic Force Restoration scales vs strain gauge technology, so don't drift near as much and settle down much quicker.
I happen to have a Scientech SA310 which is a high end 0.1milligram scale. I have been testing the repeatability of several of the vintage Ohaus beam scales in my possession. 3 of the 4 will respond to a single kernel of powder and with good technique, it is fairly easy to maintain +/- 0.05 grains. That is 2 kernels of Varget.
I happen to have a Scientech SA310 which is a high end 0.1milligram scale. I have been testing the repeatability of several of the vintage Ohaus beam scales in my possession. 3 of the 4 will respond to a single kernel of powder and with good technique, it is fairly easy to maintain +/- 0.05 grains. That is 2 kernels of Varget.
dok7mm
Well-Known Member
I use the fx-120i with a line conditioner. I also use a dust cover and never turn it off. It never drifts, unless the a/c or heater is on. I shut everything off, prior to a reloading session, check with scale weight and go to work. I know by my chrono ES that my loads are very consistent.
Every serious reloader, interested in precision loads, ought to figure a way to obtain one of these. I know people who shared the cost with their shooting buddies. Certainly one of my best shooting investments.
Another fx-120i user here. Never cut it off and it never drifts even on most sensitive setting. Like others have said u can get down to each kernal, very impressive. I often hear people say they don't want to drop that kinda coin on a scale lol. Spend 4K on a custom rifle, 3k on scope, $500 on dies and high end brass and quality bullets. Is $700 give or take to much on a quality scale? Don't get it. I know with the equipment i shoot with, reloading equipment I reload with, if I miss. It's all me not my stuff!
grabagun.com/sav-grabagun.com/sav-110-tactical-fde-hv-bbl.html-tactical-fde-hv-bbl.html
www.brownells.com/reloading/powder-handling/powder-measures-dispensers/auto-trickler-auto-throw-powder-dispenser-sku100030392-120147-224371.aspx?rrec=true
Is this the one you're talking about?
Yes that is the Auto Thrower and Auto trickler without the scale.
Here is where I got mine.
https://ce-products.myshopify.com/c...fx-120i-scale-autotrickler-v2-autothrow-combo
Here is where I got mine.
https://ce-products.myshopify.com/c...fx-120i-scale-autotrickler-v2-autothrow-combo
