Dry firing

[Joefrazell]

Alright so ive made it a practice to dry fire once I've gotten into position and am on target to make sure my cross hairs don't jump. This has been a challenge to figure out how to eliminate the jump. Sometimes the reticle doesn't move at all but alot of the time it will move about at inch or so on a 100 yard target. What have you guys found that is usually the issue here?

 

[Kanoeking]

Sounds like a user input issue. Usually associated with recoil fatigue, anticipating seeing the results of a shot or general flinching while anticipating the recoil. When I find myself in your shoes I step away for a while to reset my focus. I've also had a friend load my rifle before so that I don't know if the chamber is hot or not. This has helped me a ton.

 

[Joefrazell]

I could be wrong but I really don't feel like I'm flinching or jerking the trigger. To me it feels like a body, rifle alignment error or something like that. It's literally the firing pin movement that's throwing it off just slightly from what I can tell

 

[Kanoeking]

I could be wrong but I really don't feel like I'm flinching or jerking the trigger. To me it feels like a body, rifle alignment error or something like that. It's literally the firing pin movement that's throwing it off just slightly from what I can tell

Have someone watch you're form. You may not be engaging your rifle squarely

 

[david g ranes]

You need to pull the gun to your shoulder a little tighter and a little more cheek pressure that helps me. David

 

[Deputy819]

This sounds like a 'natural point of aim' issue. I first learned of the "NPA" concept while attending SWAT schools for the agencies I've worked for. Jacob Bynam also speaks of it in his 'Rifles Only/Fundamentals' video. Basically, you get set up to take your shot (in whatever position the situation dictates) and when you think you're ready to take the shot close your eyes, take a deep breath and let it out. If the sight picture has changed when you open your eyes then you need to adjust how your body is oriented behind the rifle. Breathing and trigger pull matter too, of course, but I've found a lot of merit in the whole 'NPA' concept. Just my 2 cents..

 

[cowboy]

A lot of times it is too much trigger hand pressure. Try wearing a light trigger hand shooting glove till you get the feel you need to prevent "trigger bounce"

 

[Bravo 4]

This sounds like a 'natural point of aim' issue. I first learned of the "NPA" concept while attending SWAT schools for the agencies I've worked for. Jacob Bynam also speaks of it in his 'Rifles Only/Fundamentals' video. Basically, you get set up to take your shot (in whatever position the situation dictates) and when you think you're ready to take the shot close your eyes, take a deep breath and let it out. If the sight picture has changed when you open your eyes then you need to adjust how your body is oriented behind the rifle. Breathing and trigger pull matter too, of course, but I've found a lot of merit in the whole 'NPA' concept. Just my 2 cents..

This...sounds like you have a natural point of aim issue when this happens. A slight shift in your hips to the left or right, depending on which way the crosshairs jump on target, should align your body up to where the crosshairs stay on target after the trigger/sear is tripped. This is what I do (dry fire and check NPA) to both warm myself up and get things settled in for a shot. As stated above, if alone or where I have a time constraint I just do the whole get on target-close your eyes-take a deep breath-and check reticle on target trick. There's another way that is a little better to me but more involved and better with a coach/spotter's assistance.
Added: having your rifle fit you correctly (and scope positioned right) helps with acquiring NPA.

 

[crazyhorse]

I agree with Deputy819 above!

Make sure you NPA is "pure", meaning there's no additional influence to close that last 1/4" on the bulls eye. Many will often and sometimes unknowingly add slightly more hand pressure, a gentle lean one way or another, etc.

The "jump" or shift you are seeing during dry firing is likely one of these outside influences showing itself in the very brief moment when there is no longer pressure on the trigger and the firing mechanism is doing its thing.

 

[doverpack12]

For me trigger pressure side to side or pressure from the side of my trigger hand moves things around like you describe. Sometimes it takes 20 dry fires to figure out the cause. Varies day to day for me but imagining my trigger finger pushing square to where the stock is against my shoulder helps while also paying attention to up/down trigger pressure.

 

[ajkellerusmc]

This sounds like a 'natural point of aim' issue. I first learned of the "NPA" concept while attending SWAT schools for the agencies I've worked for. Jacob Bynam also speaks of it in his 'Rifles Only/Fundamentals' video. Basically, you get set up to take your shot (in whatever position the situation dictates) and when you think you're ready to take the shot close your eyes, take a deep breath and let it out. If the sight picture has changed when you open your eyes then you need to adjust how your body is oriented behind the rifle. Breathing and trigger pull matter too, of course, but I've found a lot of merit in the whole 'NPA' concept. Just my 2 cents..
View attachment 175284

They Drilled this into our souls in the Marine Corps rifle training, whatever torque is being put into the rifle to "pull" it onto the bullseye will release back opposite the direction the rifle was pulled to when the rifle fires.

 

[Blancoalex]

This may be off your topic but I like to get mini statues like only 2-4 inches tall of kind animals of I will be hunting to practice dry firing at safe place in house or back yard. It gives you a realistic 3d target to practice your hold and dry fire. Being this small and about 20-30ft away it will be very close to what animal looks like at 100-200 yds away in your scope. You will be amazed how it trains you to quickly pick the spot and make a good shot.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Sounds like trigger control to me. You are not pressing the trigger straight back-thus not allowing the crosshairs to remain on the target as the firing pin drops. Try adjusting your grip to allow your finger to press straight rearward. Ensure you have complete follow through as well. Let the rifle recoil and begin it's forward motion at the end before releasing your rearward pressure on your trigger finger. When dry firing, give it a second pause before moving it off the trigger.
Depending on the stock I am firing, I have to change my hand placement. Older sporter styles are a little more forgiving to me. The vertical grips I have to adjust alot more and bring my hand around to the side to get the booger finger to engage "flat" on the face of the trigger.

 

[Naymola]

If you are dry firing on a empty chamber, you will get more bounce, use a snap cap or at least a fired case.
Don't wrap your thumb of your trigger hand around the stock, place it on top, light contact with the remaining fingers.
A check weld will "push" the sight, from the energy of the firing pin spring releasing, very light check contact or non at all.
You must pull the trigger straight back, other wise you will torque to one side. Concentrate pulling straight back.
Most important thing is set up the gun so the cross hairs are on target without any interaction from the shooter. Get it solid onto the bags/rifle rest so it's on target, gently get into position on the gun. If you are forcing the gun in anyway to stay on target, it will bounce/torque when the energy of the firing pin spring releases.
Sometimes a little forward pressure with your shoulder helps too.
You have to experiment to find that sweet spot.