Definitely NOT happy with new Redding Dies!

engineer40

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I started reloading over a year ago. The very first sets of reloading dies I got were for my 30-06's and a set for 223, and they just happened to both be Lee die sets.

I had such great luck with the Lee dies, I have since acquired 7 more Lee reloading die sets (for a total of 9). No complaints at all.

I'm putting together a 6.5-284 Norma rifle. Well crap, Lee doesn't make a die set for that cartridge. I've always heard great things about Redding dies and they are expensive, so they're probably a safe bet for a quality set of dies right?

Wrong...

I cleaned the manufacturing lube from the dies and while putting both the Full Length sizing die and Neck sizing die back together I noticed the decapping pins were gyrating all over the place as I screwed them in.

So either the threads in both die bodies are cut off center or both decapping pins are bent from the factory. I couldn't figure out a way to get the decapping pins into my concentricity gauge to measure if they are concentric. However, either way, I've never had this problem with my Lee dies that are 1/4 the cost.

I haven't used them yet, but I just have to assume this would definitely not be good for concentric case necks. It's amazing how your opinion of a company can be formed when the very first time you try one of their products it's a letdown. I can see the potential of something going wrong with the manufacturing process and then getting by Quality Control, but both dies? Come on Redding...


Reloading_Die.jpg
 
What about removing everything from the decap stem, and roll it along a flat surface (tabletop,etc). You should be able to tell if it is bent or not.
 
I left redding by the wayside years ago. I use forster and whidden now, and couldn't be happier.
 
Sounds like the stem is straight and the pin is crooked in the end of the stem? Perhaps the holed drilled in the end of the stem isn't centered, or isn't parallel with the body of the stem? Or is the whole stem wobbling around, including the de-capping pin?

If they're defective, Redding will surely send you a new stem with de-capping pin. But it's strange to get two bad ones... Let us know what you figure out after further inspection?

By the way, it's not uncommon for their to be some slop in the stem male threads to body female threads. Can't tell if that's what you're encountering from your Post.
 
What about removing everything from the decap stem, and roll it along a flat surface (tabletop,etc). You should be able to tell if it is bent or not.

When I do that, they do not appear to be bent.

I think Redding will honor their products. If I read their warranty correctly, I have to ship the dies back to them and also include a prepaid package so they can ship them back to me. Sounds like a hassle for something that should have been 100% from the factory.

I truly don't mind spending money on higher end equipment in any facet of my life. Firearms, my ATV's, stuff for my house, etc... What bothers me is when you spend more money and the equipment/device is not as good as the cheaper options.
 
I use forster and whidden now, and couldn't be happier.

I like both of those company's dies too. The Forster are a bargain for their selling price. I also like the custom neck honing ID service they offer for an additional $12.00.

And the Whidden dies are a nice option for any custom, wildcatted chambers.
 
When I do that, they do not appear to be bent.

You did state you haven't been reloading for a long time. Is it possible you're just seeing movement from the loose male to female threads where the stem screws into the threaded portion of the die body? As I said, that can be normal on many brands of reloading dies. And there are ways to work around that issue and load good ammo.
 
You did state you haven't been reloading for a long time. Is it possible you're just seeing movement from the loose male to female threads where the stem screws into the threaded portion of the die body? As I said, that can be normal on many brands of reloading dies. And there are ways to work around that issue and load good ammo.

I do not think there is anything wrong with the die or stem (cannot see through OP's eyes though).

Should be a locking nut on the stem if I remember correctly. After adjusting the needed length tighten down nut and that should square up the stem. A few thousands will not hurt anything.

Ray
 
You did state you haven't been reloading for a long time. Is it possible you're just seeing movement from the loose male to female threads where the stem screws into the threaded portion of the die body? As I said, that can be normal on many brands of reloading dies. And there are ways to work around that issue and load good ammo.

I think there is a good possibility that could be happening. Whenever I tighten down my Lee decapping stems is just always ends up in the middle, where it is supposed to be. I messed with these Redding dies for a while. If I'm careful, I can get them to what looks to be centered by screwing and unscrewing the stem in, and then tighened down the stem lock when it appears to be centered. Is that what you're supposed to do with Redding style dies? If you have another, better method, I'm all ears.

I measured neck runout on brand new Lapua brass.
0.0005
My dial only goes to thousandths, but it was moving about half of 0.001.

I then FL resized using the Redding die and measured neck runout again.
0.0020

Not bad I guess.

Just seeing that decapping stem moving around like that DOES NOT inspire confidence. Especially since I was just guessing where to lock it in where it "looked" centered. Our reloading is precision work. I don't think I should need to be guessing/assuming where the decapping stem is centered.
 
I do not think there is anything wrong with the die or stem (cannot see through OP's eyes though).

Should be a locking nut on the stem if I remember correctly. After adjusting the needed length tighten down nut and that should square up the stem. A few thousands will not hurt anything.

Ray

Thanks for the suggestion. That picture I posted in the original post was with the nut locked. It was definitely still not centered. It looked more like a few tenths rather than a few thousandths.
 
for future reference, Lee will if you contact them (by phone), put together any die set for you

I did check into that. Seems to me I remember their custom dies were more money than some of the other options readily available. I figured if I was spending the money, I might as well "get the good stuff" and try a higher end set of dies.

Thanks!
 
I think there is a good possibility that could be happening. Whenever I tighten down my Lee decapping stems is just always ends up in the middle, where it is supposed to be. I messed with these Redding dies for a while. If I'm careful, I can get them to what looks to be centered by screwing and unscrewing the stem in, and then tighened down the stem lock when it appears to be centered. Is that what you're supposed to do with Redding style dies? If you have another, better method, I'm all ears.

I measured neck runout on brand new Lapua brass.
0.0005
My dial only goes to thousandths, but it was moving about half of 0.001.

I then FL resized using the Redding die and measured neck runout again.
0.0020

Not bad I guess.

Just seeing that decapping stem moving around like that DOES NOT inspire confidence. Especially since I was just guessing where to lock it in where it "looked" centered. Our reloading is precision work. I don't think I should need to be guessing/assuming where the decapping stem is centered.
Never had this problem with my Redding dies, but I have with a couple of my RCBS dies. What it comes down to, is the threads in the die body are larger than the threads on the stem, so there is some play and the stem can move around. You just have to spin the stem until it centers-up, then tighten down the lock-nut on top. Check to make sure it's still centered after you tighten it down, if not, you just have to adjust it till it stays centered after you tighten it down.
 
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