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COW Fireforming….hard on barrel?
- Thread starter nksmfamjp
- Start date
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Not to my knowledge. Most that do initial fire forming using COW/grits, or other media are trying to Save barrel life by not running bullets down the bore. Smells good, but messy. Solvent and a standard bronze brush work fine for me. I usually clean at least every 25 rounds to not build up such a crud cake
No! I have used COW on my .30 Gibbs about 100 brass without any issues. I ran a brush/patch through probably every 10 shots, it will normally give you an indication when you need to.
Seabeeken
Well-Known Member
I done hundreds with coffee. It seems a bit less messy compared to COW since it is already burnt/toasted. As others have said, it cleans with a bronze brush and solvent. I like to clean every 10-15 rounds. The only issue is heat. The barrel can get very hot. Also, my ackley cases that I formed with COW seemed to have burnt cow in the corner of the shoulder body junction. I had to clean it out with a small seal pick
azsugarbear
Well-Known Member
I have used the COW method for all my wildcats. Works well with 15 gr. or so of any fast burning pistol or shotgun powder. If your barrel has a brake, be sure to remove it before using the COW. The tissue/cotton used to plug the load is fiberous and will catch on the gills of the brake causing them to bend or even break.
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STGguy
Well-Known Member
Make sure that whatever you use Dosnt have salt in it . I used cornmeal for my 260/ 223 AI. And my 6brx . I was warned to avoid that.
I had a blast shooting "skeet" w it and blowing up those annoying Carpenter Bees w it … made the time go by.
I use a "blop " of Crisco and keep the bbl tipped up. Easy clean up every 25 or so.
I learned the hard way about keeping the bbl tipped up and spilled one down in the action- not fun.
I got 100% first pass sharp shoulders using I forget what charge of Unique , Corn Meal and crisco once I added a false shoulder at the neck/ shoulder junction/ bottom of the neck the next size up neck sizing die, then sized 3/4 or so of the front of the neck back to the caliber / diameter I was forming.
Ie . I made as long of a .284 " false shoulder on a .264" dia round - 260 in my case so that I can just tightly close the bolt. It helps ALL the energy transfer to forming the case.
Just my $.02 .
I had a blast shooting "skeet" w it and blowing up those annoying Carpenter Bees w it … made the time go by.
I use a "blop " of Crisco and keep the bbl tipped up. Easy clean up every 25 or so.
I learned the hard way about keeping the bbl tipped up and spilled one down in the action- not fun.
I got 100% first pass sharp shoulders using I forget what charge of Unique , Corn Meal and crisco once I added a false shoulder at the neck/ shoulder junction/ bottom of the neck the next size up neck sizing die, then sized 3/4 or so of the front of the neck back to the caliber / diameter I was forming.
Ie . I made as long of a .284 " false shoulder on a .264" dia round - 260 in my case so that I can just tightly close the bolt. It helps ALL the energy transfer to forming the case.
Just my $.02 .
RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
Only use corn meal and run a brush every 15-20 rounds to clean it up and when done really do a well cleaning- never used bullets when forming just a good stiff power charge. Done 25-06 AI, 6mm 06 AI, 280 Rem AI, 309 JDJ's , 7mm IHMSA, and a few others- used cotton balls. Good luck and shoot often & straight !
A GOOD STIFF CHARGE WILL GIVE BETTER BRASS LIFE
A GOOD STIFF CHARGE WILL GIVE BETTER BRASS LIFE
Are you using anything to seal off the COW, or just filling the casing with COW?? I use toilet paper when forming the .270AI, just find it to be a PITA to stuff the paper in the tops of the cases. I seem to remember that some people use soap???? Not sure I want to push hot soap down my barrel though? Nice false shoulder on those cases
RockyMtnMT
Official LRH Sponsor
Years ago the man that taught me how to reload used cheese to to seal the fire forming load. I think anything that is non abrasive that will keep the load from spilling out is fine.
No, Sir, just fill the case with COW to the base of the shoulder. I find the cotton ball easier to work with than paper.Are you using anything to seal off the COW, or just filling the casing with COW?? I use toilet paper when forming the .270AI, just find it to be a PITA to stuff the paper in the tops of the cases. I seem to remember that some people use soap???? Not sure I want to push hot soap down my barrel though? Nice false shoulder on those cases
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
COW means cream of wheat but COR or cream of rice works equally well.
Barrel wear is zippo.
As mentioned avoid stuff containing salt & also look for stuff that has a minimum of sugar that will make for increased fouling.
Any bore fouling may be easily removed with customary cleaning methods.
Chamber cleaning needs to be done frequently. I clean up my chamber every shot using a strip of paper towel wrapped around a bronze pistol brush screwed into a non swiveling pistol rod - push, twist, pull. COW or COR junk can get in chamber and make for dents in fireformed brass.
A wad of single ply toilet paper TP stuffed in the neck can be used to contain the COW or COR.
Any kind of primer may be used - pistol or rifle.
Most pistol powders may be used. A good starting load is 10% of max for that cartridge, then work up so sharp shoulders occur. Like the case holds 58 grains of some pistol powder so 5.8 grains of that powder would be a starting load. Pistol powders have different burn rates so adjust with care. Bullseye is faster than H110.
Transport FFing rounds to site in upright position.
Go for a crush fit in chamber - this might involve necking up to a bigger diameter then necking down to make a 2nd shoulder to headspace on.
Save pricy bullets & powder. Use any kind of primer that fits. FF should occur at 15-20K psi.
Barrel wear is zippo.
As mentioned avoid stuff containing salt & also look for stuff that has a minimum of sugar that will make for increased fouling.
Any bore fouling may be easily removed with customary cleaning methods.
Chamber cleaning needs to be done frequently. I clean up my chamber every shot using a strip of paper towel wrapped around a bronze pistol brush screwed into a non swiveling pistol rod - push, twist, pull. COW or COR junk can get in chamber and make for dents in fireformed brass.
A wad of single ply toilet paper TP stuffed in the neck can be used to contain the COW or COR.
Any kind of primer may be used - pistol or rifle.
Most pistol powders may be used. A good starting load is 10% of max for that cartridge, then work up so sharp shoulders occur. Like the case holds 58 grains of some pistol powder so 5.8 grains of that powder would be a starting load. Pistol powders have different burn rates so adjust with care. Bullseye is faster than H110.
Transport FFing rounds to site in upright position.
Go for a crush fit in chamber - this might involve necking up to a bigger diameter then necking down to make a 2nd shoulder to headspace on.
Save pricy bullets & powder. Use any kind of primer that fits. FF should occur at 15-20K psi.
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RockyMtnMT
Official LRH Sponsor
When building a wildcat that will need fire forming we now use a piece of barrel and turn it down to a 12ga cartridge and ream it with the chamber reamer. Then do all the fire forming with a break open shotgun. No fire forming done in the rifle ever.
FrogFire7
Well-Known Member
RockyMtnMT
Official LRH Sponsor
Works great. No worry about heat or mess.That is an awesome idea
