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Copper bullet testing?

CBrowning

Active Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
33
Location
Meridian, ID
New to reloading, just made my first test batch actually. In doing so I have always come across that mono bullets "take a few shots" from a clean barrel. I under stand the clean barrel theory, but as to the first few rounds... I've never thought of that part.

Those with copper bullet experience, how do you test a new load starting fresh?

I'm thinking to just load a few min loads and go from there... any ideas? With the prices for copper I'd prefer not to just waste them.

Bullet I'm using is Barnes LRX 6.5.

Thanks.
 
If going to or from lead & copper to or from all copper, I do a thorough cleaning first, then fire fouling rounds with the bullet I'll be using till the grouping and velocities settle down. For my money I've had the best results jumping monometals pretty substantially instead of jamming and then running 1.5 grains under recipe max and things tend to be pretty dope out of the gate.

Don't bother trying to group your fouling rounds. It's like teaching a pig to sing. Wastes your time and annoys the pig.
 
I do most of my shooting with standard sp's and btsp's. But when it comes to hunting I use nosler etips (150 grn 7mm @3030fps).
Now what I do is set my scope dead on to my preferred range with 150 grn btsp, I then take a good long break to be sure that my barrel is completely cool clean the rifle then put up a fresh target and fire 1 etip shot that shot has always been bang on. Using this method in the past 9 seasons (last season I did not hunt), I have 5 deer and 1 moose all 1 shot clean kills hit right at the point of aim
 
When I was getting ready for a Moose Hunt in 2016 I tried to go to one piece mono bullets in my 300 WSM. For better weight retention. My rifle likes Sierra, Hornady and Nosler 180 gr. bullets. My rifle has too slow twist for these longer bullets.

30 cal. bullet length group at 100yds.
Nosler Part. 180 Gr. 1.258 1" and less
Hornady GMX 165 Gr. 1.399 3 to 4"
Nosler Old E-tip 168 gr. 1394 1" to 1 1/4"
Nosler New E-tip 168 gr. 1.414 3 to 4"
Barnes TSX 150 gr. 1.300 Not tested.

I tried Hornady 165 Gr. GMX first and it would not shoot as I wanted.
The Old Nosler 168 Gr.E-Tip was border line for a 7 1/4 lb. 2-8 scope rifle.
The New Nosler 168 Gr. E-Tip shot just about like the GMX.
I was going to load the Nosler 168 Gr. E-tips When I opened the new box of Bullets the boat tail was different, The Ogive was different, and the bullet was longer.

Ended up loading Nosler 180 gr. Partition for my hunt as before.

I did not have time to try the Barnes 150 gr. TSX last fall.
If I want to go to these longer bullets looks like a New custom Steeper twist barrel is a must. Good Luck in this venture.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I understand the fact that copper is lighter thus longer bullets. Stabilizing isn't my concern.

Looks like I'll just load a few mid range rounds and go form there.
 
Perhaps I am not following completely, I thought you were asking about what to do about the situation when you have a clean barrel and need to sent a few foulers down the tube first before using the copper bullets.

The fouling process is mostly carbon fouling and yes a little copper but mostly carbon, that will not change or affect you cleanliness of your barrel in the least.
 
Don't use the copper bullets as your fouling shots, problem solved.

That doesn't really flow with all the "different bullet, clean barrel" I've read over the years.

From my readings of numerous articles on mono bullets, clean the barrel thoroughly before shooting the mono bullets if you were using cup and core bullets prior. To me, that means your fouling shot(s) should be the mono bullet you plan to use. I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
 
This is new information to me. I sure am glad I haven't heard this before. I have been using Barnes TTSX 110 and Hornady V-Max 110 bullets at the same range session. I did that because their BC's are so close. Here are some groups fired on the same day. The first one is the Barnes. The second is A-Max. I don't know what's with the blue. Both were on white paper.

fba5bb1a-1b57-490b-b447-3ff6f7990734_zpsrr2qd2hq.jpg


20170331_083156_zpsu5rgchaq.jpg
 
Thanks again for all the info. Like everything else it seems it's up to my rifle to decide what it likes. I'm going to save my solids for testing and foul with some others. If I have any issues I can try other methods as needed.
 
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