300 WM Bullet Testing Results -- Opinions??

Brydawg512

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Hello all,

I wanted to see if I could get some opinions, based off of my results, for which bullet you would choose to do load development on. Disclaimer, I am very new to LR/precision shooting, so there is the possibility that my accuracy ability slightly affected the groupings. I ordered this ammunition from a local reloading company, and will detail the data that I recorded below (I shot two, 5-shot strings on different days and recorded the following data). I have included photos of a few of the groups below, and used a quarter for reference in grouping size. Personally, based off of what little knowledge I have, would say that the Barnes LRX and 180gr. Accubond performed the best. I hunt elk, deer, and bear, and want a bullet that is capable at taking these animals out to 650-700 yards.

**EDIT: I should also add that I am shooting a stock Savage 110 Hunter in 300 Win Mag... the barrel on this is a standard "sporter" contour, so assume that some shots may have been thrown as barrel heated up.

Please tell me your recommendations on how you would proceed (e.g. which bullet). Additionally, what should be the next step in the load development process to bring down my SD and ES? Is it charge weight, seating depth, or otherwise? Thank you all!!

190gr. Barnes LRX
FPS per shot: 2972, 2979, 2906, 2928, 2912
SD: 30/34 (2 separate recordings)
ES: 64/74

190gr. Accubond Long Range
SD: 23/44
ES: 62/103

180gr. Accubond
FPS per shot: 2970, 2986, 3013, 2979, 3004
SD: 12/17
ES: 30/43






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Deputy819

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I ordered this ammunition from a local reloading company,
what should be the next step in the load development process to bring down my SD and ES? Is it charge weight, seating depth, or otherwise?

So, you’ll be rolling your own from this point forward I take it?🤔

What chronograph gave you your numbers?
At what range were these groups shot?
 

Zen Archery

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Numerically the 180 Accubonds but the group doesn’t look the best but 1 MOA is good if you know how to adjust for differences.

190 LRX looks the best.
As most spotter barrels your first two shots are close in velocity. Then gets iffy.

Im a fan a heavier Bullets but 10gr. Isn’t that large of a factor.
 

Brydawg512

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So, you’ll be rolling your own from this point forward I take it?🤔

What chronograph gave you your numbers?
At what range were these groups shot?

Unfortunately, no. The company will be doing the reloading for now. I have been unable to get all of the gear I need to start on my own because of the virus.

This was done by a Magnetospeed sporter and 100 yards.
 

Brydawg512

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Numerically the 180 Accubonds but the group doesn’t look the best but 1 MOA is good if you know how to adjust for differences.

190 LRX looks the best.
As most spotter barrels your first two shots are close in velocity. Then gets iffy.

Im a fan a heavier Bullets but 10gr. Isn’t that large of a factor.
Do you have any experience with the LRX's? I'm curious what the on-game performance is like...
 

waspocrew

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I'm a fan of the magnetospeed, but when shooting for groups, I don't like to introduce another variable by hanging the chronograph off the end of my barrel. Typically, I'll find the best power charge and seating depth combo, then run it over the chrono to get my velocity. However, with your situation, the above may not be ideal with limited rounds provided from the manufacturer.

From what you posted, the first group with the LRX does appear to be the best of the three.
 

Brydawg512

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I'm a fan of the magnetospeed, but when shooting for groups, I don't like to introduce another variable by hanging the chronograph off the end of my barrel. Typically, I'll find the best power charge and seating depth combo, then run it over the chrono to get my velocity. However, with your situation, the above may not be ideal with limited rounds provided from the manufacturer.

From what you posted, the first group with the LRX does appear to be the best of the three.

What do you recommend doing? Changing the charge and seating depth at the same time or changing 1 at a time?
 

MagnumManiac

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Seating depth test is simple...pick a middle load of a suitable powder. Seat bullets from kissing (or max mag length if a 3.4” box) then adjust DEEPER by .010” for a total of 5-6 strings, shoot for groups using 3 shots at each length.
Then, once you find the tightest shooting CBTO, fine tune by going .005” either side....DONE!

Cheers.
 

GrayCreed

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Seating depth test is simple...pick a middle load of a suitable powder. Seat bullets from kissing (or max mag length if a 3.4” box) then adjust DEEPER by .010” for a total of 5-6 strings, shoot for groups using 3 shots at each length.
Then, once you find the tightest shooting CBTO, fine tune by going .005” either side....DONE!

Cheers.
Start with this ^^^^^^^^

Step 2: load 10 rounds at whatever the best CBTO you arive at. Vary the charges by .4g (for 300 win mag) shoot the lowest one first and write down the number, repeat untill you have shot all the way up to the highest charge.
Then plot the velocities on a graff to show how the speed/charge wieght curve looks. Look for spots where the velocity is close to the same even with the powder charge higher or lower.
Then load 5 rounds right in the middle of that spot(charge wieght) and 5 rounds for a charge wieght .2g on ether side. One of those three groups should be your humm-dinger!
 

MagnumManiac

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Oh, I forgot to mention I really like the performance of the ABLR, I’ve been using them for some time now.
I use them (210g) in all (4) of my 300WM’s, will also be using them in my new 300RUM.
I also have good results with the good old 200g Accubond, and my Kimber just loves the 180g Accubond, have used it on hogs, goats and deer in my parts.
I still have a custom shop Rem 700 5R that I haven’t fired yet. Hoping the ABLR shoots good in this too, as I have moved away from Berger’s.

Cheers.
 

Deputy819

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the barrel on this is a standard "sporter" contour, so assume that some shots may have been thrown as barrel heated up.
This was done by a Magnetospeed sporter
Gotcha. The bayonet hanging off the end of your “sporter” contour barrel definitely played a part in “throwing” some of those shots pictured.


Additionally, what should be the next step in the load development process to bring down my SD and ES?
The company will be doing the reloading for now.
I’m afraid this is going to be difficult to do if you are not in direct control of the reloading process. 😕
 

Rick Richard

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Sorry sir, but I am going to be brutally honest. Those groups and the data collected are not close to being acceptable for shooting at the ranges you indicated.

I know you said someone else was loading the ammo for you so it is difficult to further advise on load development without more information as for the powder, primer, seating depth etc. used. If you can provide this information, maybe we could help out.
 

wv270wsm

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It’s gonna be very hard to accomplish what you’re wishing to not loading you own ammo in my opinion. Those ES and SD are pretty high and won’t help you . Granted with the info you’ve been given by others that will help but being able to roll your own will drastically change your outcomes. If and when you get to where you can roll your own ammo I personally only change one variation at a time .
As far as bullets go I’ve never tried Barnes but I do like the way accubonds perform on game and have never not been able to get them to shoot nicely.
I’m not saying that you can’t get your desired results shooting the ammo you’re able to get from wherever it is your getting it from , but it’ll be more difficult
 

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