cleaning copper fouling

[Bigeclipse]

All,
I took the advice from some on here in ordering some higher end quality copper solvent. On the bottle it says to clean till copper is gone but it also says don't let sit more than 10 minutes. So does this mean I should let it sit say 7 minutes, then use clean patches and clean it out all the way and then use another patch of the stuff and let sit...repeat until little to no blue left on patches OR does this mean only use once for ten minutes. Clean it out and then do not repeat. I don't want to hurt the barrel. Thanks!

 

[Pdvdh]

It would be simpler, safer, and more efficient to purchase some Bore Tech Eliminator and clean your bores with it. No ammonia content, so it can remain in the bore indefinitely without harming the bore.

Other than that, the answer to your question is: "...let it sit say 7 minutes, then use clean patches and clean it out all the way and then use another patch of the stuff and let sit...repeat until little to no blue left on patches"

 

[Dosh]

Big, Wipe-Out won't hurt your barrel and requires no scrubbing, just a dry patch to remove. Wipe-Out gets my bore clean and I can leave it in overnight on heavy fouling. Less activity in the bore means longer barrel life. Don't forget to use your bore guide. Strong ammonia cleaners don't get along well with chromoly. Good luck

 

[Pdvdh]

Big, Wipe-Out won't hurt your barrel and requires no scrubbing, just a dry patch to remove. Wipe-Out gets my bore clean and I can leave it in overnight on heavy fouling. Less activity in the bore means longer barrel life. Don't forget to use your bore guide. Strong ammonia cleaners don't get along well with chromoly. Good luck

Ammonia cleaners will can also harm SS bores. I know from first hand experience...

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I used Wipe-Out (and their Accelerator) for a while and was happy with the results. That is, however, until I ran a few patches of Bore Tech Eliminator through a barrel that was already cleaned with Wipe-Out. I found out how clean my barrel wasn't.

Run a few wet patches of Eliminator through your clean bore and let it sit for 10 min or so. My guess is that a lot of "clean" barrels will produce plenty of blue/green patches.
BTW - It's important to use nylon brushes and nickle plated jags to avoid a false indication of copper fouling.

I do occasionally short stroke some JB through my bores but my primary solvent is Bore Tech Eliminator.

 

[FEENIX]

I too use BTE but I also like Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner and Butch's bore shine, it works very well.

 

[Garycrow]

If I have an overnight to clean I first clean all the powder out of the barrel with regular solvent then use wipe out foam & let it sit overnight. It'll remove all the copper overnight.

If I want to clean copper out fast I use a nylon brush soaked with KG-12. KG-12 works far quicker and better than the ammonia based cleaners like barnes cr-10, shooter's choice, etc.

 

[Pdvdh]

If I want to clean copper out fast I use a nylon brush soaked with KG-12. KG-12 works far quicker and better than the ammonia based cleaners like barnes cr-10, shooter's choice, etc.

I've used KG-12 also, and still have some. It's in the same league of efficiency as BTE and BTE Cu2+, but I find it much more difficult to know when the copper has all been removed, because KG-12 doesn't indicate blue while reacting with copper jacket material. KG-12 is yellow and only a slightly different shade of yellow when copper is being removed.

So I have shifted to BTE, BTE Cu2+, or Wipeout if I have the luxury of time and am willing & able to let the bore sit overnight.

 

[Bigeclipse]

Ammonia cleaners will can also harm SS bores. I know from first hand experience...

Hmm I hope I didn't hurt the SS barrel. I've used it twice and kept it under the 10 minutes it states on the bottle. It is called Montana Xtreme copper killer 50 BMG special formula. It definitely is ammonia base... I'll be checking out the other stuff people have listed.

 

[Pdvdh]

Make sure you swab the ammonia based cleaners out with a non-ammonia cleaner and then follow that up with a corrosion protectant/oil.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I used Wipe-Out (and their Accelerator) for a while and was happy with the results. That is, however, until I ran a few patches of Bore Tech Eliminator through a barrel that was already cleaned with Wipe-Out. I found out how clean my barrel wasn't.

Run a few wet patches of Eliminator through your clean bore and let it sit for 10 min or so. My guess is that a lot of "clean" barrels will produce plenty of blue/green patches.
BTW - It's important to use nylon brushes and nickle plated jags to avoid a false indication of copper fouling.

I do occasionally short stroke some JB through my bores but my primary solvent is Bore Tech Eliminator.

Bore tech seems to have bore tech eliminator and then they have something specifically called bore tech CU+ or something like that. Which do I want? Thanks.

 

[WildRose]

Make sure you swab the ammonia based cleaners out with a non-ammonia cleaner and then follow that up with a corrosion protectant/oil.

Definitely worth repeating.

 

[Pdvdh]

Bore tech seems to have bore tech eliminator and then they have something specifically called bore tech CU+ or something like that. Which do I want? Thanks.

I use them both. Bore Tech Eliminator is designed to clean both carbon and copper. I start with it. Then when the carbon is gone, I use CU+, which is a copper cleaner. The CU+ is a little more efficient on copper than BTE, in my experience. Not much difference though. So if you only want to purchase one of them, get the BTE (Bore Tech Eliminator), since it will get the carbon too, and it's also very effective on copper.

 

[Laelkhunter]

I use them both. Bore Tech Eliminator is designed to clean both carbon and copper. I start with it. Then when the carbon is gone, I use CU+, which is a copper cleaner. The CU+ is a little more efficient on copper than BTE, in my experience. Not much difference though. So if you only want to purchase one of them, get the BTE (Bore Tech Eliminator), since it will get the carbon too, and it's also very effective on copper.

I agree. You should only need the CU+ if your bore is heavily fouled with copper, but you still have to use a carbon cleaner first such as the BTE.
Clean it really well with the BTE, and you should never have a need for the CU+ unless you let the bore go to a point where it is really loaded with copper.
And : USE A BORE GUIDE !! lightbulb