Cleaning before changing bullet manufacturers

[Shane Lindsey]

Greetings,
I have read a few posts about cleaning powder because they may be different types.

My question is do you/should I clean copper before shooting another manufacturers bullet while doing load development? I haven't done much "multiple" bullet manufacturers on the same day to see whick I thought shot better. Usually just pick one and go with it as it has worked so far. This particular 30-06 is not as forgiving as some of the others I have loaded for.

In my case Berger and Nosler. My thoughts would be yes but am I just wasting my time if I do?


Thanks

 

[HARPERC]

I would, if nothing else it's one thing you won't wonder about later.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Yeh, I did.

Figured the same thing. Different chemical make up and everything in the copper jackets. I do when I shoot cup and core and Barnes.

If anything it eliminates the variables....

 

[HARPERC]

Last summer I shot some brass turned solids, in about 6 shots the wheels fell off. I still think it wasn't compatible with the copper already in the bore.

Moly never seemed to mix well for me.

Lead to copper hasn't played well either.

Never attempted to quantify it, just my thought.

 

[Darkker]

I don't shoot Barnes, but I would if I did. Otherwise I've never noticed a difference.
Last year when we put the claims of the FlatLine bullets to the test, one of the cautions was about the alloy used; purportedly doesn't play well with other jacket material.
In two different rifles, that turned-out to be just one more claim that wasn't real.

Now if it makes you feel better/gives you peace of mind; then you should certainly do it.

Between Nosler, Sierra, Berger, I constantly swap bullets and ignore a "fouling" issue.
My rifles get shot until the accuracy falls off.

 

[bob4]

I would, if nothing else it's one thing you won't wonder about later.

This just makes simple /good sense.

 

[Garycrow]

I clean all the copper out if I switch from Barnes to gilding metal bullets (all other major manufacturers) or the reverse. Otherwise I don't worry about it.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I learned long ago, that with 'good' barrels, copper isn't an issue, but carbon is.
I clean for carbon after 2 matches, longer than this it becomes more difficult to remove, shorter intervals shows no improvement to accuracy.
As soos as I get a non carboned patch, I stop, yes, some copper will be removed too, but, it's a tiny amount using Hoppe's No.9. It's not very good on copper, but, brilliant on carbon.
I also spin a piece of scotch brite to clean up any carbon 'ring' ahead of the chamber in the throat at this time. This gives me the very best accuracy I can get, because there is no difference between this barrel condition and when it is squeaky clean.
I have never seen an accuracy change switching bullet makes, I go from Berger to Nosler as availability changes all the time.
Hope this helps.

Cheers.
gun)

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Good to know. Thanks

 

[Gene]

I have never seen an accuracy change switching bullet makes, I go from Berger to Nosler as availability changes all the time.

gun)

Agreed All copper jackets bullets will foul sometimes. The best way to judge your cleaning is with a bore scope. I have a competition rifle that I thought was bore clean, until my smith scoped it. Found lots of carbon in the throat, but my patches were coming out clean.

Carbon removal is very difficult. There are lots of products that claim to remove carbon, but do not. JB and Iosso are the best, but they still require lots of scrubbing with brush.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Without a bore scope is there a way to know if you are getting all of the carbon ring out?

 

[Wedgy]

Exactly what Gene said; patches will come out clean with any liquid carbon remover but they won't get the ring. It must be removed with an abrasive paste or polish. Hard carbon ring forms at the end of the brass and is very stubborn. Even Bore Tech Cameleon was coming out clean until I ran the Hawkeye scope and saw it wasn't even close to getting the ring out. Isso bore polish took it out but it requires a lot of brushing. A bore mop on the end of a cordless screwdriver works well at low speed. Take your cleanest gun by a gunsmith and scope it to see the throat and I'm sure you will see the dreaded carbon ring is still there. It can give you pressure signs where you shouldn't see them if the ring is left untreated. And make your gun shoot horribly.
Pretty good video but it doesn't show the carbon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2n7Bm8Xzjw