those who plug the end of a barrel with a muzzle break if so how what do you use so you can let the cleaning fluid soak
cleaning barrel with a muzzle break
- Thread starter crystalgayleguy
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Many different techniques, but I don't mess with my brake or it's timing. Cleaning the rifle is one thing (patch and jag until clean), I don't bother with the brake until I see appreciable buildup of carbon on the MB vanes. Then I brush them with kerosene or thinner to loosen the carbon, let it "soak", and then use a toothbrush or pipe cleaner. Works well.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I remove my brakes and drop them into a bottle of bore solvent. I'll let them soak for an hour and then clean them with what ever fits in the slates & holes.
If you're thinking about putting a SS brake in a SS pin tumbler; don't do it. I did and it damaged the threads on the brake.
If you're thinking about putting a SS brake in a SS pin tumbler; don't do it. I did and it damaged the threads on the brake.
I'm want to plug the barrel.with the brake on
Put a zip lock bag over the brake, slide the brake into a corner of the bag, pull it tight (not super tight. Don't want to tear the bag) and secure it. I picked up a sleeve of the hair thingies (You know... the elastic ones that ladies use for putting their hair up in pony tales) and use two or three of those doubled or tripled over to keep the bag pulled tight. A zip tie or electrical tape would work too. The extra solvent needed to fill the small portion of the bag in use is minimal. I do the same when I fill my suppressor with solvent to remove carbon...
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thanks awesome ideal see on a regular barrel.i just use ear plugs
I've done the same. Works great where ports aren't involved
mobenzowner
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anyone put them in an ultrasonic cleaner?
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Different designed brakes require different methods sometimes but I generally clean them at the same time I clean the bore. The solvent will disperse in the brake and do a fairly good job of cleaning it. Ported brakes are easy to finish up using Q Tips and drilled ported brake need a spray of WD 40 with the muzzle pointed down to wash out any excess solvent. then a final air blow and dry patch the bore and the brake finishes the job,
After many shooting sessions the brake may need a better cleaning and it is removed, soaked in solvent and Sonic cleaned, I then apply a small amount of anti seize to the threads and re install.
this aids in the removal later on and doesn't effect the ability to stay tight.
How ever you clean your rifle, the brake can be cleaned at the same time. No question that the brake makes cleaning more difficult but it is worth it. Clean is clean how ever you achieve it is fine.
J E CUSTOM
After many shooting sessions the brake may need a better cleaning and it is removed, soaked in solvent and Sonic cleaned, I then apply a small amount of anti seize to the threads and re install.
this aids in the removal later on and doesn't effect the ability to stay tight.
How ever you clean your rifle, the brake can be cleaned at the same time. No question that the brake makes cleaning more difficult but it is worth it. Clean is clean how ever you achieve it is fine.
J E CUSTOM
My competition rifles that see large volumes of shooting. I I will remove the brake, place it in a plastic container a bit larger the the brake and submerge it in BoreTech Carbon Remover. After a couple of hours the carbon(and copper residue can be brushed/wiped easily. My hunting rifle with far less volume are much easier to clean brake and barrel with the same cleaning solvents used to clean the bore whether the brake is removable or not. If not, small brushes and wrapped patches work nicely. The key is not to let the carbon build up heavily over time and clean the brake whenever cleaning the barrel.
Yep. A little heat, 20 minutes, then rinse, and install with a dab of anti-seize.
Note: these are not timed brakes.
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9x23w
Well-Known Member
I wrap clear packing clear around the brake a few times and then use wipeout from the muzzle. Seems to work. The wipeout dissolves most of the adhesive from the tape so it's easy to remove. The tape only needs to stick for a few seconds while the wipeout expands.
LRNut
Well-Known Member
One of my rifle builders, who competes in F Class, told me the same thing: don't take the brake off.
