New Barrel Break-in And Cleaning Methods

Parkerized

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Apr 29, 2018
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Say you have a shooting session of 10 rounds or less --- Do you run a couple of wet patches and then dry patches to remove some of the carbon or leave it alone ? I'm not talking about a cleaning --- just about removing some of the carbon build up ?
A patch of wipeout if you must.
 

ButterBean

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Say you have a shooting session of 10 rounds or less --- Do you run a couple of wet patches and then dry patches to remove some of the carbon or leave it alone ? I'm not talking about a cleaning --- just about removing some of the carbon build up ?
Personally I wouldn't touch it
 

Vettepilot

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May 21, 2020
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Arizona
The debate about whether to exit the bore and go back and forth with brushes will rage on forever. Personally, I think if done with great care, it's fine.

The real danger comes not from the brush, but from the metal brush attachment to the rod. One idea is to apply heat shrink tubing to that area to prevent any possible metal to bore contact, especially if there is a "step" there that could catch on the crown. When you're done, slice it off with a knife and discard it.

Vettepilot
 

Weaselthis

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Aug 7, 2009
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California
ATTENTION! TIKKA T3X experts.........or other opinionated folks either:

Well.......fudgecake.... not sure where to post this but, I got a brand new rifle today! Tikka T3x.
Thought I'd disassemble the bolt, clean it and re-assemble (did that) while the Bore Tech eliminator was soaking (4 wet patches pushed out). Let the bore set for 30 mInutes. Brushed w/ more Bore Tech and 30 strokes (1 stroke = out the muzzle, back to the bore guide). Patches came out black for the 1st 4 and took 3 more after brushing to come out mostly whitish....slight bluish tinge to them. Flushed w/ brake cleaner, ran 4 new patches to dry out the bore.

The Teslong revealed a VERY blue interior beginning about 1/2 in. from the chamber all the way to the muzzle. Both lands and grooves look like I poured bluing compound down the bore! Took a pic w/ my desk top computer but can't find it and don't know how to post pix on here anyway. Sorry.

Tikka manual states that TWO over pressure proof rounds and THREE Sako mfg. rounds to ensure the MOA accuracy claim, have been fired at the factory. FIVE rounds fired and I've got a blued barrel to rival the best bluing job you've ever seen?

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the rifle is stainless.

Sorry for the long post. Would like to know if anyone else experienced this.
And.....yes or no, does anyone have an opinion on the cause/effect of this?
Thanks in advance for the wisdom.
Take care.
 
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twister

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RI
I have had some horrible barrels come from proof and accuracy. get it clean clean. I have had them take a couple days with the copper eliminator to come clean. They will typically clean up then break in for me. I Find the daag graphite will help tremendously.
 

the blur

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Apr 1, 2014
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I got my 1st stainless rifle today. Tikka. Haven't done anything to it yet, except pop out the little plastic plugs. I will probably do the precleaning, and then 1 patch, 1 shot for 10 rounds while adjusting the scope. Any other tips ? Never had a stainless barrel before.
 

Idaho Lefty

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Jan 29, 2018
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@ Weaselthis,..
I got, "Tip TOP" 1/2 MOA, accuracy out of, my 2 Tikka T-3's, one in .270 WSM the other a .243 Win by,..
1) clean, the Barrels with Barnes C-10, to remove existing, copper / fouling.
2) Put a lightly oiled, cotton Patch over, a Bronze Brush "slathered" with, JB's and run this tight fitting, combo, thru your barrel ONE WAY 12-15 strokes ( unscrewing Brush after each pass ). *** Do about, 5-6 Extra "passes" in out of, the THROAT "area" only, do THIS, FIRST ( Smoothes the Reamer marks from, factory Chambering ).
Finish with, the 12-15 passes, ONE Way. Changing Patches, add fresh JB's, a couple of times.
3) Clean barrel and Chamber,.. THOROUGHLY ! Lightly Oil and DRY Barrel and chamber !
4 ) Shoot 5 rounds SLOWLY, Clean, shoot 5 more, Clean again, Barrel should look like Chrome and NOT, "hold" very much Copper, afterward.
My .243 Win Tikka has shot, 1/3", 5 shot groups with, 87 HVLD Berger's and the .270 WSM gets sub 1/2" to 5/8" MOA groups.
The reason your Rifle is showing Copper Fouling is that, the Chamber / throat have been, freshly cut and edges are, Sharp !
I have used, THIS "Method" on 2 Tikka Barrels, A New, 6xc Criterion Barrel and a Green mountain .22 LR Barrel.
 
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Weaselthis

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Thanks for the info, Idaho Lefty. I'll give a whirl. I really didn't see any "copper", or even orange color....just a deep blue that would NOT come out.
 

Idaho Lefty

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Jan 29, 2018
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You won't ruin a barrel without break in. I think it really helps with minimizing fouling which means more shots with consistency and easier to clean.
@ Weaselthis,.. See,.. THIS ^^^ and Read Post #1 , page 1, from Len about, persistent Carbon fouling as, he's doing essentially what, I said to do about, the Throat area but, AFTER, Fouling takes root. My method, REDUCES Carbon Fouling, and copper buildup, on Factory Barrels, due to smoothing of, lands / edges of throat/ Leade area and makes everything easier, to clean.
Iosso or JB's isn't, real abrasive and the Objective is to lightly "Break" the edge of the Rifling Lands / polish, the grooves.
I clean my Center Fires, every 80-100 Rounds and have never had, a Carbon Ring.
 
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Alex Wheeler

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Jul 5, 2017
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Montana
You can't prevent a barrel from breaking in. If you shoot it, it will break in. The sharpness of the throat is important to accuracy. I prefer jb to iosso as its less aggressive, but use it only when you have to. Montana extreme copper killer with a bronze brush should keep you off the jb for many hundreds of rounds. Yes, Iosso in the throat does shorten the accuracy life of a barrel. You do not want to smooth out the rifling. I know this as a fact.
 
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