FWIW I switched from PB Blaster to Sea Foam Deep Creep. Deep Creep is a great product. It is all I use for cleaning hand guns that I shoot lead bullets through and for my 22 rimfires. Works great on shotguns too, even the plastic wad fouling comes right out. It works great in the shop too for freeing up rusty / stuck fasteners.
Carbon Off?
- Thread starter Muddyboots
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Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
The Boretech C4 did zip on barrel even with overnight soak. Seafoam Deep Creep looks interesting and will grab some next time in auto store. PB will still be one to try again just to see what happens. I have never had such a hard carboned up barrel in my life before. I checked round count and it was 120 and all with RL16. Love the performance and will definitely clean now after every range session which is basically 20 rounds or so through this rifle. Thanks to all who make suggestions since we are all trying to find the holy grail of carbon cleaning. Great comments and helpfulness of all the folks on this site.
Buzzsaw
Well-Known Member
i agree muddy boots. stay ahead of that stuff!
I just got a Ruger No 1 RSI in 6.5X55 cleaned the corbon out with Carb & throttle body cleaner on a patch over a nylon brush. It worked great it's made to remove carbon out of the intake of the fuel system.
Bucklowery
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Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
I'm going to throw this out there. I don't know, so I am going to ask. Those of you that own Supressors, and have them on an AR or M16 should be getting them pretty hot, and creating carbon fouling similar to what we are seeing in a throat in a bolt action. Maybe not, carbon on a brake isn't all that hard to remove. Question is what do you use to remove it, and how stubborn is it? I know another good test that it is easy to see the results from is the mag tube on a gas semi auto shotgun. This carbons just like a rifle barrel and is just as tough to get off. I clean this with a cotton cloth and Isso. Best I've found to date. Takes some elbow grease, but does work. Both this, and the internals of a supressor are much easier to track results from than the inside of a rifle barrel without a bore scope. Anyone have a magic formula for these? Might be something to test cross platform???
Soak in straight Simple Green. It's pretty amazing. I've also heard that Permatex Gasket Remover will remove the toughest carbon buildup from engine parts.
jrg
Well-Known Member
We use Boretech C4, let it sit overnight & then use a nylon brush with C4 to make several passes (15-20) then wrap a patch around a Nylon Brush for several passes then dry patches until clean, we use this on the Carbon ring as well as the carbon in the barrel.
Braunschweiger
Well-Known Member
It's interesting reading responses. For example, one will say X-Product never worked, but another will. How are there such discrepancies in reviews of the very same product?
keithcandler
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- Jan 30, 2005
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Lot of guys reading the problem of hard cooked on carbon in bores can not relate.
I have all of the products mentioned in this thread. For hard cooked on carbon, I will insert a cork in the muzzle of the barrel, stand the barrel up, and fill with a SUper penetrating oil called Free All. I let it soak for two weeks. We have found that Free All has no equal in this application and in breaking loose rusted on bolts.
Then I drain the oil out of the barrel, and brush with a good bronze bristle brush, dry the bore out, examine with a Hawkeye bore scope. Repeat as necessary.
I recently dealt with a 308 Palma barrel that I bought off the internet for $100 that was black from one end to the other. No scrubbing with JB, good new bronze bristle brushes would remove the carbon. It took three, two week soakings with brushings in between.
I have all of bore tec products, Kg products, and Wipe Out products, they will not touch hard cooked on carbon.
Brownells sells a silicone carbide paste for cleaning heavy carbon fouled bores, 600 and 800 grit. A lot of guys shooting very large calibers use the Silicone Carbide bore pastes to clean up their bores.
Some powders are rough on barrels, check the heat index of your favorite powders!
I have all of the products mentioned in this thread. For hard cooked on carbon, I will insert a cork in the muzzle of the barrel, stand the barrel up, and fill with a SUper penetrating oil called Free All. I let it soak for two weeks. We have found that Free All has no equal in this application and in breaking loose rusted on bolts.
Then I drain the oil out of the barrel, and brush with a good bronze bristle brush, dry the bore out, examine with a Hawkeye bore scope. Repeat as necessary.
I recently dealt with a 308 Palma barrel that I bought off the internet for $100 that was black from one end to the other. No scrubbing with JB, good new bronze bristle brushes would remove the carbon. It took three, two week soakings with brushings in between.
I have all of bore tec products, Kg products, and Wipe Out products, they will not touch hard cooked on carbon.
Brownells sells a silicone carbide paste for cleaning heavy carbon fouled bores, 600 and 800 grit. A lot of guys shooting very large calibers use the Silicone Carbide bore pastes to clean up their bores.
Some powders are rough on barrels, check the heat index of your favorite powders!
Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
I think there are some variables that come into play. Cleaning frequency, powder used, and cartridge are some. Powders behave differently in different cartridges. Example: I am told Re33 is a great choice in the big 338's. It gives high velocity and should be a good choice in a 28 Nosler. I tried it and got pressure from carbon fouling after only about 20 rounds. It was super hard too, and tough to remove. I can shoot my .308 a bunch with Varget and it is easy to clean. This alone can easily explain why one guy can have great results with Product "A" and it fails miserably for someone else. Everyone is not dealing with the same issue.
Braunschweiger
Well-Known Member
Right, I agree... two folks in this thread both spoke of carbon fouling AND carbon rings. Using the same product, one said it didn't work, the other said it did. A carbon ring is a carbon ring. So... as to why it would work for one person but not another can only be explained by very specific circumstances. (Heat added, amount of time soaked, amount of elbow grease.)
There's not been many scientific proofs of any one brand doing better than any others because too many variables exist in the cleaning. However, as far as a chemical reacting with carbon, makes me think that good ol Hoppe's will do as well as anything else for a fraction of the cost... with the overall cost being time and elbow grease.
