Bubble level?

It works, I don't move much, and I go back and forth and back and forth until it's steady. Even if I'm shooting at game, I don't rush shots at distance. Generally, no need to, and I'm not comfortable rushing past 3-400 yards, and I don't notice much change until I get past that for cant. If a man gets still and squeezes the trigger as crazy as it sounds 3-400 yards are not hard shots to make.
My key is to not rush. Therefore my little inner voice keeps telling me " Smooooothhh".
 
You need to turn the scope, while you're at field reference level (from whatever device chosen), so that your full elevation range is plumb.
Lock that down.
You need to actually reference your level when shooting. Not before or after a shot, but during.
So it needs to be in view concurrent with your aim and trigger pull.
If you don't get sighters/warmups/prefoulers/martini (shaken -not stirred) before counting shots for record, you need to mind level.
 
Between the four setups I've used, here's my personal preference:

  1. Scope tube-mounted (Flatline Ops is the only one I'd personally recommend.) Easy to set up, easy to see, and it works well for just about everyone.
  2. Precision Hardcore Gear rail-mounted – A very close second. It works great, but the downside is they're almost always out of stock.
  3. Integral chassis/stock-mounted – It works, but I find myself having to come off the gun to confirm the bubble is actually centered, which slows me down.
  4. Integral ring-mounted levels – They work, but they're a pain to install and can be a pain to keep from shifting during the mounting process. Of the ones I've used firsthand, Hawkins has been the best.
 
Only to you.
As long as your action and scope are level during install it's fine. Scopes only adjust up down left and right, they don't move at angles.
But if a man can't look through a scope an estimate a level crosshair when shooting than maybe a level is the solution for that person.

I beg to differ!
"IF" your reticle isn't "level", bullet impact will change 2 directions with one simple scope adjustment! Maybe not alot, but "enough"!
I have (IIRC!) a set of "Wheeler" scope levels.
One clamps to the barrel. The other sits atop your elevation turret!
AND......
just as sure as people have different eye colors, we each have different perceptions of up, down, left, right and depth perception.
Jim could see a deer across a peanut field and tell you the range within 20 yards, give or take!
Me?
I was doing good to see the deer, much I less "guess" the range! LOL!
 
I beg to differ!
"IF" your reticle isn't "level", bullet impact will change 2 directions with one simple scope adjustment! Maybe not alot, but "enough"!
I have (IIRC!) a set of "Wheeler" scope levels.
One clamps to the barrel. The other sits atop your elevation turret!
AND......
just as sure as people have different eye colors, we each have different perceptions of up, down, left, right and depth perception.
Jim could see a deer across a peanut field and tell you the range within 20 yards, give or take!
Me?
I was doing good to see the deer, much I less "guess" the range! LOL!
I'm not clear on what you're begging to differ from ?
Again if you want or need a bubble level then by all means use one. It makes no difference to me.
 
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Anyone have any idea how these bubble levels work in the cold? Sometimes I'm hunting in -10 when I'm after coyotes. Just curious if they freeze up.
 
As a competitive Benchrest shooter, I can tell you with certainty that a bubble level is so far down the list it's never even discussed.

In long range BR. tuning is king .. That includes, action timing, ignition tuning, bedding, rings, rails, front and rear bag quality and reading the conditions take center stage.
So when benchrest shooters are adjusting their front rest they don't bother to make sure they are level?
 
So when benchrest shooters are adjusting their front rest they don't bother to make sure they are level?
To a degree yes' we have adjustment legs on our rest to get close but again it has not been the most important aspect IME.
This is just my perspective but a scope erector moves up down left or right.
Center is still center, unless I'm holding a great deal of windage the elevation is well within reason.
Again some of the fellas have addition levels but most of the top shooters in the nation that shoot with us do not ( at least that I've noticed ) and we hold a great many of the records set at long range so there must be a connection.
We discuss things like powder charge or seating depth, bullet pointing and tipping or how the environmental conditions are affecting the loads but I can't recall ever discussing how if I only had a scope level my results would have been better.
Again, I do not fault any one for there choices or dispute another man's finding after he tests for himself, hopefully I haven't…I just stated my observation from a decade of 1000 yard shooting and probably should have just kept my mouth shut..
I will add just to be open minded that I have not spent equal time in the field long range hunting, moving forward I may or may not find value in a scope mounted bubble level. If I do I would certainly report with those results.

B
 

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