Bubble level?

[436]

I kind of like it on the scope, although I've used both at times, just depends on the setup. Cheers

 

[sloride]

My issue is only one eye! For me end of rail seems best. Maybe securely attach to rear of scope.

 

[memtb]

I kind of like it on the scope, although I've used both at times, just depends on the setup. Cheers

View attachment 766630

I was pretty certain that I had a similar set-up on our 6.5-284…..but, hadn't seen the rifle for so long , that I'd forgotten! memtb

 

[436]

I was pretty certain that I had a similar set-up on our 6.5-284…..but, hadn't seen the rifle for so long , that I'd forgotten! memtb

View attachment 766782

Yep, that pipe hitter looks pretty nice. Cheers

 

[Oldlso]

Rail and scope mounted spirit (bubble) levels have been great for me and my #1 addition to any rifle for anyone shooting accurate at distance.

That said, due to vision issues, I went with a MDT LRA and SG Pulse light levels, I prefer the SG Pulse.

I have the SG Pulse and it works and easy to see in my scan..

 

[LRNut]

I hunt in an area where you can put the truck in neutral and swear you're coasting uphill.
Given this, I had to learn about level and what matters about it.

Easily 99% of level merchandising get's it all wrong. The whole thing is a mess.
Biggest issue: What you need to level is not the gun, but POA elevation adjustment.
It needs to be an adjustment purely tied to reticle movement as dialed and/or held off.
Keep in mind with this that most scope reticles, and dials, are not actually plumb to adjustment.
It's on you to test for this and compensate, same as determining your actual click values, which rarely match advertised.

Anyway, to get this right, the level has to be mounted to the scope tube.
Not a cap, rail or ring, they mean nothing.
Once you've set level on a scope, with measure mounted to it's tube, you can move that scope from gun to gun & back, and always shoot plumb.
No other testing/adjustment to that level is ever needed again, for that scope.
The gun itself doesn't matter

Next issue is use.
You can't be moving your eye off the reticle and target, to consider some angled view of a bubble,
There is parallax with this.
You need to be able to view the bubble head on -while fully ready to pull the trigger.
Otherwise, you're not even trying to get this right.

Last is generalizations.
You're shooting off a bipod in the field, with ~30moa dialed in,, how is level not important?
You know, bullets fall plumb.
Is your aim on that plumb line?

I use levels on the tube; I tried on cheap rail mounted one but on flat surface, the bubble wasn't level. Rail mounts would work but obviously you need to ensure your reticle vertical is plumb when the bubble is level.

I use an MDT rail level when I am setting up my scopes. When the rail is level, I rotate the scope to ensure I am bracketing a 20 story building - vertical wire aligns with the side of the building, and the horizontal is aligned with the roof. I double check with a level on the turret - all three have to be alignment. Once the ring screws are tight, I remove the MDT. Since there are not tall buildings within 100 miles of my CO place, I only do this in PHX and only in the early morning before mirage makes it impossible. I have a pole in concrete in CO that is perfectly plumb, but I find the building solution to be much better.

Like you said, once you have a bubble on a scope, you can move it to another rifle without a problem, assuming the rail slots are perfectly flat. Easy to check that with the MDT.