Brass...whats good and whats bad?

I would buy a 100 Lapua and never look back, if you should decide to switch to a different load and it doesn't work the 50 rounds of your original load is still there to fall back on.

I shot a fair bit of competition over the years and sometimes when I am down to enough rounds for practice/sighters/comp..I would start some development work on a new batch...without changing sight settings...it's load development...a group is still the same no matter where you aim.

Given how many tips I buy at anyone time and how I sort them, I usually don't need to do much adjusting, but on occasion I run out of powder...so it's back to the relative drawing board.
 
All,
... Again, not looking for extreme accuracy, just sub 1MOA. So for this type application, would you still stick with Lapua brass or is it maybe not worth it? What other types of brass do you like? Thanks!

My experience has been that for "hunting / good enough" reloading to MOA or better shooting even out of factory rifles I can get away with practically any brass. We have several loads that were made up from cheap PPU brass that shoot .5-.75 inch groups out of stock Remington 700 or Savage 110 hunting rifles. Reason for this is that I like to buy the cheap PPU or Monark ammo and shoot it to get my brass and practice at the same time.

I've done tests using the "same load" (primer, powder, bullet) with different brass and out of a hunting rifle it is hard to tell between mixed brass groups vs. same brass that has been weighted. In some cases it is hard to tell the difference even when the powder charge isn't perfect. (done on purpose to find a "node") I might get some flack for saying so but for a hunting round that just needs to be MOA or better I tend to find the velocity node the barrel likes and the bullet weight it likes then work the length off the lands if I feel so inclined. Often in that velocity & bullet weight sweet spot I can get less than MOA out of several different powder/bullet combos. That way if I run out of something, can't get it, or have a new lot of powder I can often still get good enough results.

I have some guns that I don't bother to reload for at all. I have a Remington 700 in .243 that shoots core-lokt ammo .75moa out to 500 yards...why bother reloading? Have a Savage .270 that shoots just under moa with winchester 130s. (but shoots .5-.6 moa with a reload) I've never cycled Lapua brass through a hunting rifle, just seems silly. So it is all about what is good enough for you. I reload mostly because I like to but I like to spend my time on reloading for the custom built rifles where the results are easier to see when reloading is done well, especially when shooting 500+ yards.

I've only been reloading for a few years with thousands of rounds rolled compared to some guys who have decades of experience and tens of thousands of rounds rolled. So take what I say in that context.

With PPU brass I'm seeing
7RM getting 2-3 reloadings then splits in the neck appear
270 have 3-5 reloadings some pockets are getting loose
308 have 5-7 reloadings wo/annealing but they aren't pushed still going strong

Mileage may vary.
 
Interesting, all the Benchrest guys I know all use Lapua brass. I load .338 Lapua for long range shooting and all I ever use is Lapua brass. Sometimes it stops paying to keep asking questions.
 
Hornady is last on my list! Fed gold metal match is good, Winchester is good for the price
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top