Brass swelling

View attachment 143129 So had my Remington 700 7mm rum rebarreled to a 300 rum. I have coupe boxes of ammo through it. Started reloading for it the other day. Never payed much attention to the brass tell I started reloading. Any idea why brass is swelling so bad? Could it be the chamber is cut to big? The rifle shoots really good. Should I be worried?
got your headspace checked again
 
View attachment 143129 So had my Remington 700 7mm rum rebarreled to a 300 rum. I have coupe boxes of ammo through it. Started reloading for it the other day. Never payed much attention to the brass tell I started reloading. Any idea why brass is swelling so bad? Could it be the chamber is cut to big? The rifle shoots really good. Should I be worried?
That is a problem with belted magnums Innovative technologies has a belted magnum collet resizing die that addresses the bulge !
 
That is a problem with belted magnums Innovative technologies has a belted magnum collet resizing die that addresses the bulge !
Any brass will "Bulge" if the reamer is ran in to deep or the reamers out of spec or run over pressure rounds. Here we go again, just because it's a belted case it's got the " bulge".
 
That is a problem with belted magnums Innovative technologies has a belted magnum collet resizing die that addresses the bulge !

Any brass will "Bulge" if the reamer is ran in to deep or the reamers out of spec or run over pressure rounds. Here we go again, just because it's a belted case it's got the " bulge".

interesting news-- I had no idea that the 300 or 7 rum were belted cartridges
 
interesting news-- I had no idea that the 300 or 7 rum were belted cartridges
I know it's not belted, I was just responding to the "Bulge" because its belted response. I get irritated when I here when people lump belted case with bulge. I've seen it on plenty of non- belted for one reason or another.
 
No neck sizing on a RUM? Hogwash! I reload for my buddies 300 RUM & I've got individual cases that have been reloaded 15 times just neck sizing. And that was during load development and accuracy testing! When you start getting a bit of resistance on a freshly neck sized case it's time to FL size, but as JE said, just until the cases chamber easily. All this baloney about RUM's can only be reloaded once (as the sales guy told my buddy) makes me laugh... a lot! Someone needs to read up on how to set up their reloading dies or (a slight possibility) they need a new barrel that's chambered correctly.

This is the reason I've been saying the RUM cartridges are better than the belted magnums, such as my .338 WM. The belt is an obsolete and useless leftover from long ago that's simply unnecessary today. Were I still young enough (or in good enough shape!) to go chasing after elk & big bears, I would have a .338 RUM instead of my WM... which, of course, would (has! and will continue to) still get the job done. Just not quite as efficiently as it could.

Tundra Cruiser, I don't really think there's a thing wrong with your rifle, although having the headspace checked certainly won't hurt anything. Do as JE said, get a neck sizer and don't worry about the apparent bulge in the base of the case. As long as the cases still chamber easily after neck sizing, you're good to go. The 'bulge' won't increase any more than it is now unless you're loading some real fire breathing, on the ragged edge of max pressure ammo - that can cause brass flow. Even then all you need to do is check for head seperation (I still use the wire-with-a-bend to check). For me, .243 seems to be the most prone to that.
Cheers,
crkckr
 
View attachment 143129 So had my Remington 700 7mm rum rebarreled to a 300 rum. I have coupe boxes of ammo through it. Started reloading for it the other day. Never payed much attention to the brass tell I started reloading. Any idea why brass is swelling so bad? Could it be the chamber is cut to big? The rifle shoots really good. Should I be worried?
A lot of gunsmiths fret over having the throat area of the bore dialed in for "zero" runout, and this is good. However the axial run out can be thousanths off, Due to chuck or headstock misalignment even though dialed in "perfect" at the throat. Another neglected area is the alignment of the tailstock center. Almost all lathes are high as delivered. Even if you adjust the right and left or horizontal you most likely need to surface grind to zero the vertical. Even then the tailstock barrel may read different as the tailstock extends or retracts. If you are out two thousanths at the center it will ream a chamber 4 thousanths fat at the back, even though the throat area has been zeroed.
 
YES!! If you FL the cases you will get head separations - neck size, and the cases will last a long time.

ONLY if you bump too far repeatedly. If you know how to set up the die, zero chance of head separation. You do not always bump the shoulder as far back as you can. .002 bump is enough and no shoulder seperation
 
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Rem brass?
If so, it's typical of rem brass. I have a bunch of rem 30-06 brass with that bulge at the web. Bounty hunter is right. Get a proper fitting fl length die.
 
Rem brass?
If so, it's typical of rem brass. I have a bunch of rem 30-06 brass with that bulge at the web. Bounty hunter is right. Get a proper fitting fl length die.
I hope I am not missing the point but it seems to me that it is easy to smooth over and ignore the actual problem. Yes you can avoid overworking your brass by just neck sizing or bumping the shoulder. But is that not just ignoring the reason that the brass swells (because there is room or "slop" in the back of the chamber for the brass to flow, due to the reamer being pushed at a cocked or inclined angle. The fact remains that your chamber is badly reamed. There is a gunsmith on YouTube that reams his chambers without using the tailstock. He has a block on the cross slide and he reams it from his chuck so that the chambering reamer fits in same block and IS in line with the rotating center of the chuck or barrel. He takes an indicator pin the exact size of the nominal diameter of the case and the pin just slides in with perfect fit. I don't think the problem is your brass. Or possibly not the wrong die, but the problem is a lathe that pushes the reamer offset and creates a fat chamber at the rear of the chamber. But yes, you can cover up the oversize chamber by only sizing the neck and shoulder.
 
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