Brass problems

No I'm on the other side of the state. Okay so to me it's starting to sound like your smith chambered the barrel. If that's correct then your smith need to fix that chamber. That means setting it back and reaming out a new chamber.
 
That is easy to diagnose, a chip or two has been trapped in one or more of the reamer flutes and marred the chamber surface. These are often not more than .0003"-.001" deep.
Polishing the chamber will reduce it, but it won't remove them.
The only way to remove them is to set back one thread and re-cut the chamber.
I have the same on a Kimber 300WM about 1/32" down from the shoulder/body juncture.
I polished it and reduced the markings, but it is still imprinted on the fired cases yet you cannot feel it with a fingernail.
My custom 505 Gibbs also had a faint chip mark, as long as it doesn't cut/imprint the case, it's nothing to worry about.

Cheers.
 
Speaking of a bore scope....maybe this little device will save a lot of people money this year.... 1126181208.jpg
I think it is at walmart...cant recall at moment...
Edited.....yep I was reluctant to buy because it was an "as seen on tv"....heck..make put some batteries in it and check it out....
 
Last edited:
Called them, but they want me to send the barrel in, but i dont think thats the problem. Id have to take it off the action which I don't have the tools or knowledge.

The Smith that put it on basically told me he doesnt know what to do. Lets just say ive gone to a different Smith. Unfortunately with the new Smith he's over an hour away.

Man, don't fret with a good smith that is over an hour away. My smith is about 4 hours away and the work he does is fantastic so it makes the trip invaluable to me!
 
Tale a bore scope and look at the chamber. I agree with Magnum Maniac, easy to fix by a competent smith! Even if left alone, more of a annoyance than a real problem.

I do not post very often but I have to here. I had a Remington 722 in 300 Savage that showed the same ring Grandpa said it had been like that since the 40's when he bought it after the war.
You could never get more than three or four fireings off a price of brass before they would separate at that line. Sometimes in the sizing die and sometimes in the rifle. He never had it rebarreled because it was such a accurate rifle so he lived with it and fired mostly new factory Corelok rounds as it only came out for Deer and Elk season.
When he gave it to me when I was eleven I loaded for it and found it to be an annoyance to buy or cut down .308 or 30-06 brass all the time so I had it rebarreled still in .300 Savage as I have a couple of other rifles in .300 and have come to love the cartridge for what it is and what it Can do.
What made me rebarrel it finally was a case that separated while fireing and getting a face full of gas. No damage to me or the rifle other than some minor burns but it was enough to never trust that rifle until it was fixed.
When having it rebarreled the Smith said the same thing most here have and that it was a reamer chip that had left the line that would cut brass eventually.
 
Hey Backcountry.....have you done a scratch test inside to see if you can feel the brass separating.....be a great test....maybe use one for a cut test.....see what's happening....
I would have to think that little area could become a "false shoulder" issue....
 
Hey Backcountry.....have you done a scratch test inside to see if you can feel the brass separating.....be a great test....maybe use one for a cut test.....see what's happening....
I would have to think that little area could become a "false shoulder" issue....

I have not! I will tonight when I'm off work. I didnt think of that. I'm also going to buy that cam from walmart like you suggested.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top