bolt knob hits scope

DUSTY NOGGIN

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Mar 18, 2015
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744
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salt lake city
hey guys , ill get you guys a picture of this particular bolt later on rifle make is a federal ordinance . i believe it is a mauser type bolt .. main question is , is mauser type silvered on like a 700 is ?? or a bolt that can be heated and bent slightly for clearance without affecting bolt hardness (3/32 at most ) ..
we installed a new scope on it and it rubs but clears the eyepiece but makes hard contact at the magnification adjustment ring .. higher rings would not help unless 1/2 higher and he would not preffer that route cause the comb fits perfect at this height.. objective bell has 3/16 gap
 

Calvin45

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Apr 13, 2019
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909
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Nipawin, Saskatchewan, Canada
They look stupid as all get out in my opinion but can’t deny they work....how possible would it be to set the rifle up for a scout rifle type scope mount? Then you wouldn’t have to mangle or modify the rifle itself too much if it means anything to you.
 

DUSTY NOGGIN

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Mar 18, 2015
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salt lake city
Mauser bolt handles are either forged as part of the bolt body, or the handle is welded on. We heat them and bend them as needed. Wrap a wet rag around the bolt lugs so they take on no heat. I have a heat sink that I screw in where the bolt shroud goes. A good pic will show me what you have there.
heres a good pic
 

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shortgrass

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Mar 31, 2010
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Western Oklahoma
Yep! That's a Mauser bolt. Heat and bend. Remove the firing pin assembly. Remove the extractor, too. A good fitting heat sink is nice to have, and as I mentioned, wrap the locking lug end in wet rag. Takes oxy/acetylene to make enough heat, propane/oxy might do it, but I don't know. A propane 'plumbers torch' won't make enough heat.
 

DUSTY NOGGIN

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Mar 18, 2015
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744
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salt lake city
Yep! That's a Mauser bolt. Heat and bend. Remove the firing pin assembly. Remove the extractor, too. A good fitting heat sink is nice to have, and as I mentioned, wrap the locking lug end in wet rag. Takes oxy/acetylene to make enough heat, propane/oxy might do it, but I don't know. A propane 'plumbers torch' won't make enough heat.
thank you very much
 

arch408

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Dec 6, 2012
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371
If it’s an original Military Mauser, it can be heated and bent. We have a heat sink and jig and heat with an acetylene torch. Make sure the bolt is completely stripped first.
 

Mike Matteson

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Jun 26, 2017
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951
some more
A lot of Mauser actions have been cut and bent over the years. That shouldn't be a problem. The only thing is you will probable need to work over the stock where the bolt handle goes with a rattail file, and reseal the stock in that area. Use a little artist oil paint and some light oil to mix it. Use a brush and paint the inside of the bolt handle. Have the action in place in the stock. Close the bolt, and see where the handle is hitting. Remove the action from the stock and start to remove the wood where the black is left behind. Only remove the wood a very little at a time until it closes completely. If you go to fast you will create something that doesn't look very good. It probable take several times to get enough material removed to close property. So slow and you have a good looking job out of it. The black artist oil paint and oil is what I use to let my action into a stock.
 

shortgrass

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Mar 31, 2010
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Western Oklahoma
Even the MAP gas won't get hot enough shortgrass?
The idea being, heat it fast and do the bending. Using a lessor gas it will take longer to 'turn it red' where it will bend effortlessly. The longer heat is applied, the further the heat travels in the material being heated. MAPP and oxy may get hot enough, but it may take longer to get it hot enough to bend easily.
 

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