Best way to polish ss fluted barrel

moombaskier

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I just took ownership of a new Broughton barrel that they fluted for me. It looks almost like it was blued and was told that the discoloration is caused from the final stress relief process. I want to clean it up and polish it. What is the best method to do so and what should I use?
 
Just get after the flutes with some #0000 steelwool. Then when it is chucked up for the thread and chamber do the outside while in the lathe spinning.

Jeff
 
I just took ownership of a new Broughton barrel that they fluted for me. It looks almost like it was blued and was told that the discoloration is caused from the final stress relief process. I want to clean it up and polish it. What is the best method to do so and what should I use?

Makes me sick, why the job wasn't finished properly for you? We, none gunsmiths,
should not have to deal with that kind of garbage.

I'm sure I'm missing something here!
 
Eaglet, Tim at Broughton explained this to me while I was orderng my last barrel. He told me exactly how it would look when I got it,, before I paid for it. He stated that they use to take the sharp edges off the flutes and polish the barrels , but some smiths complained that they didn't want the edges touched and wanted to do the polish their selves. Some bead blast them or bead blast only the flutes and then hit the outside while spinning them. It gives a easy two tone look that accents the flutes. This is the easiest process and a look I personally like. The brownish look it comes with from the heating process is really not hard to remove while cleaning up after the maching is done.

I can agree it is not what you would expect to see when you open your new barrel for the first time. But that memory will soon be forgoten if it shoots like the two Broughtons I have.

Jeff
 
Makes me sick, why the job wasn't finished properly for you? We, none gunsmiths,
should not have to deal with that kind of garbage.

I'm sure I'm missing something here!
SOME barrel blanks are made for 'smiths to work with and finish and are not advertised or expected to be 'drop-in'. It's not 'garbage', thats the way it is if you want 'custom'.
 
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Brownells sells a barrel holding fixture made up of a fixed live center (stub) and a sliding live center. I'm pretty sure you can make your own. Get crown savers from Newlin (little brass centers). Put your barrel on it between centers and spin it against a fine wire wheel. Be sure to put oil on it and wear long apron,jacket, gloves and a full face shield. I've heard of doing it on the lathe but never had satisfactory results that way. Better than nothing,maybe but was always rippley for me.

JohnMill
 
Eaglet, Tim at Broughton explained this to me while I was orderng my last barrel. He told me exactly how it would look when I got it,, before I paid for it. He stated that they use to take the sharp edges off the flutes and polish the barrels , but some smiths complained that they didn't want the edges touched and wanted to do the polish their selves. Some bead blast them or bead blast only the flutes and then hit the outside while spinning them. It gives a easy two tone look that accents the flutes. This is the easiest process and a look I personally like. The brownish look it comes with from the heating process is really not hard to remove while cleaning up after the maching is done.

I can agree it is not what you would expect to see when you open your new barrel for the first time. But that memory will soon be forgoten if it shoots like the two Broughtons I have.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, now I get it.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the reply's. I found myself thinking it wasn't stainless at first, then found out why the discoloration. Won't stainlees steel rust if you use steel wool on it? I have been told to never use it on stainless. I will probably have it Cerakoted, but may want it polished for a while at least until the brake is installed. I'm having Gunwerks chamber it in the 7LRM(7-375 Ruger) for me and install it on a Stiller TAC 300.
 
You can bead blast it or place between centers(If you have a lathe) and use a 3M abrasive pad
(Walmart has them) and it will put a nice finish on the stainless barrel.

I don't recommend using gloves on any rotating equipment because it can get caught and rip
pieces of fingers or hands off.

All ways place your fingers opposite the rotation so that it will kick you out instead of wrapping you
up.

If you are going to have the barrel coated , sand blast it for a good anchor pattern.

J E CUSTOM
 
I have used steel wool on every SS barrel I have ever owned and never had a problem. If it promotes rust I am not aware of it nor have I had a problem.

Jeff
 
I would never say to use gloves when operating a lathe or mill( or a number of similar machines) however when polishing a barrel against a buffing or wire wheel you will ****** the spinning barrel with your fingers/thumbs and it gets sorta hot not to mention the wire wheel occasionaly pitches wires hithernyon and that ain't no fun for bare hands. You can follow your own counsel but I,m wearing gloves,welding jacket, shop apron,safety glasses, dust mask, faceshield, ear muffs. A lathe no. no rings, no watches, short sleeves, short hair.
Also, thanks to the guy for the heads up on Chad Dixon's barrel polishing fixture. I got him bookmarked and will buy one from him. I give him your name or handle when I do. You ought to get some good will if nothing else. I don't have your name right here but I'll get it b4 I order.

JohnMill
 
I would never say to use gloves when operating a lathe or mill( or a number of similar machines) however when polishing a barrel against a buffing or wire wheel you will ****** the spinning barrel with your fingers/thumbs and it gets sorta hot not to mention the wire wheel occasionaly pitches wires hithernyon and that ain't no fun for bare hands. You can follow your own counsel but I,m wearing gloves,welding jacket, shop apron,safety glasses, dust mask, faceshield, ear muffs. A lathe no. no rings, no watches, short sleeves, short hair.
Also, thanks to the guy for the heads up on Chad Dixon's barrel polishing fixture. I got him bookmarked and will buy one from him. I give him your name or handle when I do. You ought to get some good will if nothing else. I don't have your name right here but I'll get it b4 I order.

JohnMill

It was me.

Chad is great to deal with. He does incredible gun work. I just had him flute 3 of my Remington bolts. He's running a group buy through the end of the month. $50 each. Return shipping included.

The NEW LongRifles, Inc. BOLT FLUTING G/B offer - Sniper's Hide Forums
 
GearGrinder,
I'm going to get that fixture from Dixon so tell him it's you that sold it. Ive got to barrel and bed 3 rifles and go to Williamsport to BR school then I'll be ready.

Thanks
JohnMill

PS I do believe the spinner is the best way to polish a barrel. I tried to do it on a lathe several times with poor to mediocre results. Went to school with Gordy and he taught me to use the spinning fixture. Much better and consistant results. Just my speryance

JM
 
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