Ok first I started with one shot spray, thought it was great till I got a shoulder gauge and shoulders were everywhere, sometimes I could feel a big difference in sizing force, so then I shook it and sprayed them up real good, let dry, started sizing, took a break, when I came back, i again feeling difference in force and then got stuck case, so done with that. Next lee lube mixed with rubbing alcohol, worked good but messy, had to use ultrasonic cleaner after, rinse then dry. Third was Hornady unique which works very well, little messy but can just wipe off, last I tried imperial case lube wax but found it less messy but harder to apply than unique so went back to unique. Just wondering what you guys think works best and what would you use on inside of neck as a lube between bullet and case, reason I ask is cause I came across some 223s I loaded over a year ago which shot fine then and now I'm getting a hard bolt lift when extracting the spent cases so I'm figuring the bullet created a little bit of a weld to the brass causing a pressure spike.
Best case lube?
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Imperial Case lube for a few but when I do more than a few I use liquid Lanolin mixed with alcohol and put in a spray bottle.
A little goes a long way.No more stuck cases and it smells great.
A little goes a long way.No more stuck cases and it smells great.
Never had an issue with one shot. Works for me
I use Unique lube on a piece of felt and roll the cases lightly. Inside the necks I use a nylon neck brush that I very occasionally rub with dry graphite.
I have tried numerous commercial from RCBS glue in a bottle to home brew Lanolin/Alcohol. I use Frankford Arsenal because it works great and is cheaper. Edit... I just used it on 200 loaded 223 rounds to run through a body die. Threw them in the vibratory cleaner for 20 and ready to shoot. I just put them in a tupperware tub spray and mix them by hand. I use about 1/3 of others this way and don't get shoulder dimples. Make sure you shake it every dang time or the spray nozzle will plug up. I also use Imperial for small amounts and when working on a specific issue. Also use the imperial neck moly jar to dip necks in for small amounts and specific issues I am figuring out.
Hornady One Shot. Also is a GREAT release agent when glass bedding. No issues.
Reason the OP had a stuck case is he was spraying with case head in the tray. Reverse that, ie, case upside down and spray judiciously.
Reason the OP had a stuck case is he was spraying with case head in the tray. Reverse that, ie, case upside down and spray judiciously.
I still got 2 new cans of one shot, I guess I can use some when bedding my 223 next week. It seemed like you had to size right away after it dried, the unique sizes nice and easy with consistent results, I suppose anything you use will have to be cleaned off. Will the graphite powder keep the welding effect from happening, I thought of maybe using the unique on a q tip very lightly on inside of neck.
I think the issues with Unique for inside the case neck would be how to do the same amount consistently and will the Unique contaminate the powder. The best preventative measure for bullet weld is to shoot them before it happens. The focus regardless of what lube you use is consistency and getting your personal method dialed in. If you do use the Unique for the case and a neck brush with graphite, do so sparingly, and as consistent as you can.
I'm surprised you had bullet / case neck welding. I just pulled apart ~70 rounds that I loaded ~8 years ago. None were welded. Pulled apart ~250 284 Winchesters that had been loaded in the mid '70s, and maybe 1/10th of them had seized together.
Lube:
I've used lanolin/alcohol (stinks to high heaven, leaves a nasty gum on the case and discolors them if you don't wash it off), Hornady paste case lube, Some spray case lube I cannot remember, WD40 (junk, don't waste your time), silicone spray (waste of time), Imperial case lube.
On a hunch in ~2015, tried straight, refined coconut oil. Worked fantastically. However, it solidifies below 70°F. Mixed it 50:50 with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and it stays fluid. Put a teaspoon of it on a 4" x 9" piece of double felt, spread it out with a spatula, and gently roll the cases in it.
Smells good, wipes off super easily no discoloration if I don't wipe it all off, my dies rarely need cleaning, and have not had a dented shoulder since switching to it.
Plus, where lanolin in the spray bottle will separate out and needs shaking, coconut oil/alcohol doesn't separate.
Final bonus -- it's super cheap. You can buy refined coconut oil at the grocery store for ~$3.50 a pint jar.
I might be 1/3 down on my pint jar, that's how little I need and how effective it is.
Lube:
I've used lanolin/alcohol (stinks to high heaven, leaves a nasty gum on the case and discolors them if you don't wash it off), Hornady paste case lube, Some spray case lube I cannot remember, WD40 (junk, don't waste your time), silicone spray (waste of time), Imperial case lube.
On a hunch in ~2015, tried straight, refined coconut oil. Worked fantastically. However, it solidifies below 70°F. Mixed it 50:50 with 99% isopropyl alcohol, and it stays fluid. Put a teaspoon of it on a 4" x 9" piece of double felt, spread it out with a spatula, and gently roll the cases in it.
Smells good, wipes off super easily no discoloration if I don't wipe it all off, my dies rarely need cleaning, and have not had a dented shoulder since switching to it.
Plus, where lanolin in the spray bottle will separate out and needs shaking, coconut oil/alcohol doesn't separate.
Final bonus -- it's super cheap. You can buy refined coconut oil at the grocery store for ~$3.50 a pint jar.
I might be 1/3 down on my pint jar, that's how little I need and how effective it is.
Boy the folks on this forum sure has great idea's.I like the coconut oil and alcohol idea and will try that but like Sockeye66 I would never put anything liquid inside a case.
Graphite will keep cold weld problem at bay.
Old dogs can learn new tricks
Graphite will keep cold weld problem at bay.
Old dogs can learn new tricks
MagnumManiac
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I have used Coconut oil, STP, Imperial wax, RCBS II case lube and 100% bees wax.
I now use the bees wax exclusively, easily removed and have never had even a sticky case, let alone a stuck case.
For case necks, I use a nylon brush dipped in fine powdered graphite with the excess tapped off. This is not removed.
Cheers.
I now use the bees wax exclusively, easily removed and have never had even a sticky case, let alone a stuck case.
For case necks, I use a nylon brush dipped in fine powdered graphite with the excess tapped off. This is not removed.
Cheers.
I been using hbn on necks when sizing, thinking a quick dip with case mouth would work, coconut oil does sound like an interesting idea. Bullets were left in my shooting shed in tool chest, forgot they were there, been there about a year, just put a couple through bullet seater and could feel the pressure build up and then bullet released and moved and will move now with little pressure, like I was breaking a bond between bullet and brass. I also checked runout and wow did I make some crappy bullets a year ago.
