Bedding rifle help

bikehe

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
34
Hi All, Ive finally recieved my Mcmillan A3 stock for my rem 700 243 varmit. After 8 months of waiting I have to say that it was definatley worth the wait as Im very impressed. Anyway sometime in the future I will get the reciever cerakoted proffessionally but not sure if I bed the reciever now while its blued, will I have to re-bed the action again after cerakoting it. All the research says that the coating should be about .001" which would make the reciever about .002" overall. If its going to make a difference I wont do a full length bedding job until I get the cerakoting done and just do the lug and rear tang area for now. Any advice appreciated
 

J E Custom

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Joined
Jul 29, 2004
Messages
10,723
Location
Texas
Hi All, Ive finally recieved my Mcmillan A3 stock for my rem 700 243 varmit. After 8 months of waiting I have to say that it was definatley worth the wait as Im very impressed. Anyway sometime in the future I will get the reciever cerakoted proffessionally but not sure if I bed the reciever now while its blued, will I have to re-bed the action again after cerakoting it. All the research says that the coating should be about .001" which would make the reciever about .002" overall. If its going to make a difference I wont do a full length bedding job until I get the cerakoting done and just do the lug and rear tang area for now. Any advice appreciated

It is always best to have a finished barrel and action before any bedding is done.

The receiver would probably not matter, but the recoil lug could be difficult to install in the bedding
if it was larger than the original bedding.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
 

bikehe

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
34
I'm hearing ya. I will just do the tang and lug area that way when I get it cerakoted and if there's any issues I will have less devcon to remove. I very much appreciate your opinion Sir, thanyou
 

Dr. Vette

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Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
2,609
Location
Holland, MI
I'm hearing ya. I will just do the tang and lug area that way when I get it cerakoted and if there's any issues I will have less devcon to remove. I very much appreciate your opinion Sir, thanyou
I'd wait and do it all at once. There is little point - probably no point - in doing some now and some later. I've tried partially re-bedding rifles and it just never seems to work.

Save yourself some grief. Send it out to be Carakoted, and bed it when it returns.
 

bikehe

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
34
I'd wait and do it all at once. There is little point - probably no point - in doing some now and some later. I've tried partially re-bedding rifles and it just never seems to work.

Save yourself some grief. Send it out to be Carakoted, and bed it when it returns.

Totally agree, but the rifle has only 1 box of factory rounds through the barrel and my nearest certified cerakoter is over 600 mile way. No big deal to remove the devcon later as i will only bed the action enough to what is required as when the time arrives I'll fit a new barrel at the same time I have it cerakoted. Appreciate the good advice.
 

Punisher

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Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
747
Location
Kansas
If you have an air compressor, it will cost you less to Cerakote it yourself. All you need is a $15 HVLP sprayer, some paint filters which some auto parts stores give you for free, and a few gallons of acetone. There is now an air dry version of Cerakote, so you don't need an oven, technically.

I went to Home Depot and bought thin sheet aluminum and cut it with aircraft shears and riveted the hole thing together. It cost $50 plus a $10 hot plate from Walmart.

Don't bed the thing until you have Cerakoted, but if you are getting impatient, just do the cerakoting yourself. If you have ever successfully operated a can of spray paint, you can Cerakote.
 

bikehe

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
34
If you have an air compressor, it will cost you less to Cerakote it yourself. All you need is a $15 HVLP sprayer, some paint filters which some auto parts stores give you for free, and a few gallons of acetone. There is now an air dry version of Cerakote, so you don't need an oven, technically.

I went to Home Depot and bought thin sheet aluminum and cut it with aircraft shears and riveted the hole thing together. It cost $50 plus a $10 hot plate from Walmart.

Don't bed the thing until you have Cerakoted, but if you are getting impatient, just do the cerakoting yourself. If you have ever successfully operated a can of spray paint, you can Cerakote.

Ok after talking to a guy this morning he told me there is a semi retired gunsmith in my small town. Got in touch with him and to my luck he has barrel vise,, action clamp etc and for a carton of beer he said he will remove and reinstall the barrel for a carton of beer. So next week he will remove barrel so I can ship the reciever down to the cerakoter. Awsome thanyou all for replies as it will now be done properly and I dont have to bed the action twice.
 

Punisher

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Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
747
Location
Kansas
Ok after talking to a guy this morning he told me there is a semi retired gunsmith in my small town. Got in touch with him and to my luck he has barrel vise,, action clamp etc and for a carton of beer he said he will remove and reinstall the barrel for a carton of beer. So next week he will remove barrel so I can ship the reciever down to the cerakoter. Awsome thanyou all for replies as it will now be done properly and I dont have to bed the action twice.

Oh crap! I'll do it and the Cerakote, and the bedding, for a case of Moosehead ;) but you have to come here.
 

Hired Gun

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Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
1,561
Location
North Bend, Oregon
If you have an air compressor, it will cost you less to Cerakote it yourself. All you need is a $15 HVLP sprayer, some paint filters which some auto parts stores give you for free, and a few gallons of acetone. There is now an air dry version of Cerakote, so you don't need an oven, technically.

I went to Home Depot and bought thin sheet aluminum and cut it with aircraft shears and riveted the hole thing together. It cost $50 plus a $10 hot plate from Walmart.

Don't bed the thing until you have Cerakoted, but if you are getting impatient, just do the cerakoting yourself. If you have ever successfully operated a can of spray paint, you can Cerakote.

What about the most important part of the prep process? The sand blasting with 100-120 mesh grit to get the proper surface profile. (preferably sterile aluminum oxide) Skip that one and you might as well be using spray paint. It will chip right off.

To the OP. It's okay to do all your bedding before Cerakote. Just don't do the lug tight on the front. With a layer of tape clearance it will go in and out just fine. The only other concern is if you are taking the barrel loose the recoil lug will be impossible to clock exactly where it was when it was bedded unless it is pinned. Then I would bed after putting the barrel back on.
 

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