Hi All, Ive finally recieved my Mcmillan A3 stock for my rem 700 243 varmit. After 8 months of waiting I have to say that it was definatley worth the wait as Im very impressed. Anyway sometime in the future I will get the reciever cerakoted proffessionally but not sure if I bed the reciever now while its blued, will I have to re-bed the action again after cerakoting it. All the research says that the coating should be about .001" which would make the reciever about .002" overall. If its going to make a difference I wont do a full length bedding job until I get the cerakoting done and just do the lug and rear tang area for now. Any advice appreciated
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Bedding rifle help
- Thread starter bikehe
- Start date
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J E Custom
Well-Known Member
It is always best to have a finished barrel and action before any bedding is done.
The receiver would probably not matter, but the recoil lug could be difficult to install in the bedding
if it was larger than the original bedding.
Just my opinion
J E CUSTOM
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
I'd wait and do it all at once. There is little point - probably no point - in doing some now and some later. I've tried partially re-bedding rifles and it just never seems to work.
Save yourself some grief. Send it out to be Carakoted, and bed it when it returns.
Totally agree, but the rifle has only 1 box of factory rounds through the barrel and my nearest certified cerakoter is over 600 mile way. No big deal to remove the devcon later as i will only bed the action enough to what is required as when the time arrives I'll fit a new barrel at the same time I have it cerakoted. Appreciate the good advice.
If you have an air compressor, it will cost you less to Cerakote it yourself. All you need is a $15 HVLP sprayer, some paint filters which some auto parts stores give you for free, and a few gallons of acetone. There is now an air dry version of Cerakote, so you don't need an oven, technically.
I went to Home Depot and bought thin sheet aluminum and cut it with aircraft shears and riveted the hole thing together. It cost $50 plus a $10 hot plate from Walmart.
Don't bed the thing until you have Cerakoted, but if you are getting impatient, just do the cerakoting yourself. If you have ever successfully operated a can of spray paint, you can Cerakote.
I went to Home Depot and bought thin sheet aluminum and cut it with aircraft shears and riveted the hole thing together. It cost $50 plus a $10 hot plate from Walmart.
Don't bed the thing until you have Cerakoted, but if you are getting impatient, just do the cerakoting yourself. If you have ever successfully operated a can of spray paint, you can Cerakote.
Ok after talking to a guy this morning he told me there is a semi retired gunsmith in my small town. Got in touch with him and to my luck he has barrel vise,, action clamp etc and for a carton of beer he said he will remove and reinstall the barrel for a carton of beer. So next week he will remove barrel so I can ship the reciever down to the cerakoter. Awsome thanyou all for replies as it will now be done properly and I dont have to bed the action twice.
Oh crap! I'll do it and the Cerakote, and the bedding, for a case of Moosehead
but you have to come here.
Hired Gun
Well-Known Member
What about the most important part of the prep process? The sand blasting with 100-120 mesh grit to get the proper surface profile. (preferably sterile aluminum oxide) Skip that one and you might as well be using spray paint. It will chip right off.
To the OP. It's okay to do all your bedding before Cerakote. Just don't do the lug tight on the front. With a layer of tape clearance it will go in and out just fine. The only other concern is if you are taking the barrel loose the recoil lug will be impossible to clock exactly where it was when it was bedded unless it is pinned. Then I would bed after putting the barrel back on.
