Frank7mm
Well-Known Member
Just wondering what most of you use for bedding compound and release agent? I have used acraglas ,but hate the wait. I heard of using, marine tex, pc 7, jb weld and others. Just wanted to hear the pros and cons of each. 
Bedding compound choice!!
- Thread starter Frank7mm
- Start date
AJ Peacock
Well-Known Member
I've used a bunch of different ones. I tried Devcon Plastic Steel putty this winter on 3 different rifles (used Imperial sizing wax as a release agent) and I have found the best! It stayed where I put it, filled void's well and hardened perfectly. It's a seriously hard/heavy bedding compound that has worked great for me.
MidwayUSA - Devcon Plastic Steel Putty 1 lb
MidwayUSA - Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2 oz
AJ
MidwayUSA - Devcon Plastic Steel Putty 1 lb
MidwayUSA - Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2 oz
AJ
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
I like Decon HVAC and if its a gun that'll see really severe duty I'll use Devcon Titanium.
the Titanium stuff is pricey and a bit more tricky to work with. Open clamp time is about 20 minutes if your shop is kept cool. That's all you get though so have your ducks in a row before you start mixing. In the end its worth it as this stuff can actually be tested on the Rockwell C scale for hardness. (18HRC) As most know, resin systems fall under the shore hardness scale normally.
Brutal tough if you know what your doing.
Good luck.
HVAC:
Titanium:
the Titanium stuff is pricey and a bit more tricky to work with. Open clamp time is about 20 minutes if your shop is kept cool. That's all you get though so have your ducks in a row before you start mixing. In the end its worth it as this stuff can actually be tested on the Rockwell C scale for hardness. (18HRC) As most know, resin systems fall under the shore hardness scale normally.
Brutal tough if you know what your doing.
Good luck.
HVAC:
Titanium:
Last edited:
7mmSendaro
Well-Known Member
I have used Marine Tex on 8 rifles now and had no issues. I use Johnson floor wax as a release agent. Any Ace Hardware store can order Marine Tex in for you, usually cheaper than any where else because they do not charge shipping.
When putting the marine tex down in the recoil lug area, be sure to work it well with a tooth pick or popcicle stick to free any air pockets before inserting the rifle.
Good luck!
When putting the marine tex down in the recoil lug area, be sure to work it well with a tooth pick or popcicle stick to free any air pockets before inserting the rifle.
Good luck!
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Chad
I use to think I did good looking bedding until I saw your work.
I now have a new standard !!!
"Beautiful work"
J E CUSTOM
I use to think I did good looking bedding until I saw your work.
I now have a new standard !!!
"Beautiful work"
J E CUSTOM
specweldtom
Well-Known Member
Frank7mm, I use Brownell's Steelbed and Birchwood Casey Stock Wax hand rubbed on the metal until you can't see it. If the bedding compound has to be brown, I reluctantly use Brownell's Acraglas Gel.
Chad, I saw the same thing that I'll bet JE Custom saw. The bedding itself is not exceptional, It's the absolutely uniform thickness of the bedding along all visible edges and the flawless interior cleanup. I have never done a bedding job with prep and cleanup even close to these. Great pictures, new standard.
If "open clamp" time is the same as pot life, 20 minutes is way too fast for me. The Steelbed gives at least an hour before it even gets tacky, and I sometimes need it.
I've got to ask; what is the function of the rows of holes in the barrel channel of the HVAC bedded (rimfire?) stock? Damping?, complex preload? Very interesting.
Good hunting, Tom
Chad, I saw the same thing that I'll bet JE Custom saw. The bedding itself is not exceptional, It's the absolutely uniform thickness of the bedding along all visible edges and the flawless interior cleanup. I have never done a bedding job with prep and cleanup even close to these. Great pictures, new standard.
If "open clamp" time is the same as pot life, 20 minutes is way too fast for me. The Steelbed gives at least an hour before it even gets tacky, and I sometimes need it.
I've got to ask; what is the function of the rows of holes in the barrel channel of the HVAC bedded (rimfire?) stock? Damping?, complex preload? Very interesting.
Good hunting, Tom
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
The mystery holes. . .
Guys, thanks first off. That's three years of fiddling to get it right.
As for the holes. this is my international Palma Gun in 308 used for 800, 900, and 1000 yard competitive shooting. (Iron Sights) Two years of work building this silly thing. Just fiddled with it when I was in the mood to work on a money pit.
One of my pet peeves on a target gun is the accessory rail. I HATE sliding a hand stop and having it hang up on the counter sink that the mounting screw registers in. So, on this gun I went the other way. I built my own rail from scratch, engraved a scale on it so I could remove the hand stop without worry of losing my spot, and then decided to machine the little aluminum sockets for the screws to register in so that the heads wouldn't eat the wood up. They are nothing more than screw holes for the accessory rail. Its just held in from the opposite side.
The other reason is I knew it would generate lots of comments from anyone who saw it and lets face it. For a guy building guns in a sea of other guys building guns, it pays to have a gimmick sometimes. (so long as its harmless and doesn't BS people)
I will admit to teasing the gullible sometimes by telling them its an experimental harmonics flux magnetometer device that makes the rifle do magical things like generate a magnetic field that dampens barrel harmonics with no physical contact.
Amazing what people will believe. . .
Guys, thanks first off. That's three years of fiddling to get it right.
As for the holes. this is my international Palma Gun in 308 used for 800, 900, and 1000 yard competitive shooting. (Iron Sights) Two years of work building this silly thing. Just fiddled with it when I was in the mood to work on a money pit.
One of my pet peeves on a target gun is the accessory rail. I HATE sliding a hand stop and having it hang up on the counter sink that the mounting screw registers in. So, on this gun I went the other way. I built my own rail from scratch, engraved a scale on it so I could remove the hand stop without worry of losing my spot, and then decided to machine the little aluminum sockets for the screws to register in so that the heads wouldn't eat the wood up. They are nothing more than screw holes for the accessory rail. Its just held in from the opposite side.
The other reason is I knew it would generate lots of comments from anyone who saw it and lets face it. For a guy building guns in a sea of other guys building guns, it pays to have a gimmick sometimes. (so long as its harmless and doesn't BS people)
I will admit to teasing the gullible sometimes by telling them its an experimental harmonics flux magnetometer device that makes the rifle do magical things like generate a magnetic field that dampens barrel harmonics with no physical contact.
Amazing what people will believe. . .
James Jones
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I use Devcon Steel Putty , its easier for me to get hold of than Marine Tex and it works very well , Doesen't run like the liquid does and has a very reasonable work time.
I have tried the Titanium and it works great but the work time is very short compairing to the Steel , I'll probably use it on my up comming 308 build just beacuise its the strongest stuff out their.
I also have reciently employed Chad's method of mixing my bedding compound by useing a 24"x24" piece of polished SS plate and using the "fold over" method , leaving the compound spread thin over the plate in a coold room make it take alot longer to setup and I get a much better more uniform mixture
I have tried the Titanium and it works great but the work time is very short compairing to the Steel , I'll probably use it on my up comming 308 build just beacuise its the strongest stuff out their.
I also have reciently employed Chad's method of mixing my bedding compound by useing a 24"x24" piece of polished SS plate and using the "fold over" method , leaving the compound spread thin over the plate in a coold room make it take alot longer to setup and I get a much better more uniform mixture
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
If you really wanna get that stuff mixed, build a wooden box and put a light source in it.
A 100 bulb works well.
I just use sissors and cut the ends of the tubes off and dump them onto the glass. That stuff'll mix so nice when its warm. Just be sure to kill the heat as soon as your done mixing and get it spread out thin right away.
I can do it with titanium too, just gotta haul some major *** when you go. Like I said, be sure to have your duckies lined up if you try it.
A 100 bulb works well.
I just use sissors and cut the ends of the tubes off and dump them onto the glass. That stuff'll mix so nice when its warm. Just be sure to kill the heat as soon as your done mixing and get it spread out thin right away.
I can do it with titanium too, just gotta haul some major *** when you go. Like I said, be sure to have your duckies lined up if you try it.
NesikaChad
Well-Known Member
The rest of the gun. . .
Here's a few more pics
Here's a sample of a floor metal inlet.
Here's a few more pics
Here's a sample of a floor metal inlet.
